®tj^  ^.  p.  pU  pbmrg 


'Novih  Carclma  State  Colteae 

SPCCIAL    C.KLtCTIONS  ^ 


I      IIIH  ilfi— iiii-  II         — ~- 


THIS  BOOK  MUST  NOT  BE  TAKEN 
FROM  THE  LIBRARY  BUILDING. 


PRACTICAL 


ORANGE  CULTURE 


INCLUDING  THE 


CairG  of  ttie  OraiB,  Lemoi,  Lime 


AND    OTHER    CITRUS    FRUITS, 


AS  GROWN  IN  FLORIDA. 


.^.    H.    IvC-^^rLT-V-XXiXjE. 


JACKSONVILLE,  FLA  : 

ASHMKAD  BROS..  ROOKSELLKRS,  STATIONERS,  PRINTERS  AND   BINDERS 

1883. 


PREFACE. 

Orange  culture,  like  everything  else  in  our  busy  mod- 
ern world,  is  progressive.  What  a  few  years  since  was 
a  chaos  of  conflicting  opinions  and  practice  has  been 
reduced  to  something  like  system.  The  more  success- 
ful growers  throughout  the  State  pursue  essentially  the 
same  plan,  modified  to  suit  the  peculiarities  of  soil,  loca- 
tion, etc.,  with  which  they  have  to  deal.  The  following 
pages  are  intended  to  be  a  practical  guide  to  orange 
culture,  according  to  the  most  approved  methods. 

The  profits  and  delights  of  orange  culture  do  not 
come,  strictly  speaking,  within  the  scope  of  this  work, 
and  they  have  been  too  often  and  too  fully  set  before 
the  public  to  need  further  mention  here. 

The  author  has  not  attempted  the  history  of  the 
orange  and  its  congeners  any  further  than  is  involved 
in  a  descriptive  list  of  the  varieties  known  in  Florida. 
The  origination  and  introduction  of  the  several  species 
and  varieties  are  treated  at  length  in  other  accessible 
works,  and  though  the  subject  is  one  of  great  interest,  it 
has  no  practical  bearing  upon  successful  culture  in  this 
State. 

Bearing  groves  have  been  n)ade  in  an  incredibly 
short  time  by  grafting  or  budding  wild  trees  found  in 
the  State.  These  wild  groves,  few  at  most,  have  now 
almost  or  entirely  disappeared,  and  methods  for  their 
development  having  no  longer  a  general  application 
have  not  been  thought  sufficiently  pertinent  for  a  place 
in  these  pages. 

As  few  growers  now  raise  their  own  trees,  saving  time 


6  PREFACE. 

and  money  by  buying  them  ready  to  plant  in  grove 
form ;  no  space  is  given  to  the  germination  of  seed,  grow- 
ing of  young  trees,  or  propagation  of  varieties. 

The  classification  of  species  and  varities  has  been 
made  as  complete  as  possible,  with  comprehensive  hints 
on  selection  for  general  planting ;  and  special  attention 
has  been  given  to  the  modifications  of  culture  required 
by  different  locations  and  soils. 

The  author  has  endeavored  to  exclude  purely  theoret- 
ical and  irrelevant  matter,  and  in  as  concise  and  simple 
manner  as  possible  to  keep  strictly  to  the  necessary  re- 
quirements of  practical  culture. 


PKEFACE. 
CHAPTER  I. — Situation  and  Exposure. 

The  Frost  Xiine— Water  Protection— Forest  Protection— Forest 
Culture— Wind  Breaks 9 

CHAPTER  II.— Soil. 

High  Hammock— Low  Hammock— High  Pine  Land— Low  Pine 
Land— Scrub  Land— The  Best  Soil  for  Orange  Culture 13 

CHAPTER  III.— Preparing  the  Ground. 

Wild  Land— Low  Land— Drainage 17 

CHAPTER  IV.— Choice  of  Treej^. 

Variety — Age — Size— Thorns  —  Shape— Fibrous  Roots — Stock — 
Method   of  Propagation 22 

CHAPTER  V. — Selection  of  Varieties. 

The  Sweet  Orange— The  Mandarin  or  Tangierine  Orange— The 
Bitter  Orange 28 

CHAPTER  VI.— Season  for  Planting. 

The  Best  Time— Late  Planting 3.5 

(iHAPTER  VII.— Distance  Apart. 

Size  of  Trees — In  the  Northern  Part  of  the  State — On  Low 
Lands— On  High  Lands— Dwarf  Trees— How  to  Ascertain 
the  Number  on  an  Acre 37 

CHAPTER  VIII.— Planting. 

Handling  the  Trees— Preliminaries— Setting  Out  the  Trees- 
Watering— Deep  Planting — Large  Trees 41 


3  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  IX.— Cultivation. 

Deep  Culture— Shallow  Culture— Infrequeut  or  Partial  Culture 
—The  Suspension  of  Cultivation  Late  in  Summer— Summer 
Shading  by  a  Green  Crop— Cropping— Other  Fruits— Best 
Methods  on  High  Land— Best  Methods  on  Low  Land- 
Mulching 46 

CHAPTER    X.— Mulching. 

Its  Advantages— Its  Application— Objections  Considered 63 

CHAPTER  XI.— Fertilizers. 

Humus— Green  Crops— Mulching -Muck— Barn  Yard  Manure- 
Cotton  Seed— Lime— Potash— Phosphoric  Acid— Land  Plas- 
ter—The Value  of  the  Compost  Heap — The  So-called  Com- 
plete Manures 57 

CHAPTER  XII.— Fertilizing. 

The  Best  Fertilizers— The  Best  Time— Application— Leachy 
Soils— Hammock  Land— Young  Trees— Bearing  Trees 68 

CHAPTER  XIII.— Pruning. 

Object— System— Young    Trees— Older    Trees— Height   of   the 

Stem— Time— Instruments— Root  Pruning 74 

* 
CHAPTER  XIV.— Diseases. 

Die-back— Limb  Blight— Gum  Disease  or  Bleeding— Foot  Rot- 
Sweet  or  Black  Rust 79 

CHAPTER  XV.— Insects. 

Scale  Insects— The  Mealy  Bug— Other  Insects— The  Rust  Mite...    85 

CHAPTER  XVI.— Marketing  the  Crop. 

Drying  or  Packing-house — Gathering — Curing— Sorting— Wrap- 
ping—Packing 93 

CHAPTER  XVII.— The  Lemon,  Lime  and  Other  Species. 
The  Lemon — The  Lime — Other  Species 09 

APPENDIX. 

Classification  and  Description  of  the  Species  and  Varieties  of 
the  Citrus  as  known  in  Florida— Dwarfing  the  Orange 103 


ORANGE  CULTURE. 


CHAPTER    I 


SITUATION    AND    EXPOSURE. 

«)  HE  FROST  -  LINE.— ISIuch  nonsense  has 
been  circulated  about  what  is  termed  the  "  frost- 
line,"  i.  e.  an  imaginary  line  somewhere  in  the 
^^  State,  north  of  which,  the  orange  cannot  be  suc- 
cessfully grown,  and  south  of  which  lies  the  so-called 
"  Orange  Belt."  The  severe  cold  in  December  1880, 
froze  the  fruit  and  stripped  the  leaves  from  the  trees  in 
the  northern  part  of  the  State,  in  some  places  killing 
the  tender  twigs  and  branches  ;  further  south  the  foliage 
was  uninjured,  though  the  fruit  was  frozen  ;  still  further 
south  neither  fruit  nor  trees  were  injured.  Still,  little 
serious  damage  was  done  ;  even  where  the  trees  suffered 
most  they  speedily  recovered  and  grew  all  the  more  vig- 
orously on  account  of  the  check  they  had  received. 
The  destruction  of  the  fruit  was  the  greatest  loss  sus- 
tained ;  this  could  have  been  avoided  by  gathering  the 
fruit  earlier,  as  it  matures  before  there  is  danger  of 
frost.  On  the  other  hand  there  have  been  instances 
where  groves  in  the  southern  portion  of  the  orange  region 
seemed  to  suffer  as  much  as  those  further  north,  owing 
to  the  irregularity  of  the  cold  wave,  or  to  the  trees  being 
full  of  sap  and  growing.  This  has  led  many  to  the  op- 
posite and  quite  as  erroneous  conclusion  that  orange  trees 
are  equally  liable  to  injury  from  cold  in  all  parts  of  the 
State.  Every  locality  is  visited  by  frosts,  but  there  can 
be  no  doubts  that  they  are  modified  by  latitude  and  are 


MflfERTT  UBitfr 


lO  JIAXVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

most  frequent  and  severe  in  the  more  northern  counties. 
Trees  are  probably  less  frequently  injured  by  cold  south 
of  about  29^  and  30'  north  latitude;  no  arbitrary  line 
however  can  be  drawn,  as  many  locations  above  this  are 
naturally  protected  from  cold,  and  at'  some  points  below 
it  the  frost  is  unusually  severe.  Still  the  cold  is  seldom 
severe  enough  anywhere  within  the  State,  except  in  the 
northwestern  portion,  to  injure  bearing  trees,  as  their 
dense  foliage  affords  them  excellent  protection.  Young 
trees  are  more  liable  to  injury,  and  are  sometimes  killed 
to  the  ground,  but  where  there  is  no  natural  protection 
they  can  be  artificially  protected  in  winter  until  they 
attain  size  enough  to  protect  themselves.  Exemption 
from  frost  is  not  the  only  consideration  in  orange  cul- 
ture, and  the  northern  jDortion  of  the  State  possesses 
some  decided  advantages.  We  find  therefore  that  w^here- 
ever  suitable  soil  is  found  throughout  eastern,  middle, 
and  southern  Florida  the  orange  can  be  and  is  profitably 
grown. 

Water  Protection. — It  is  well  known  that  currents 
of  cold  air  passing  over  large  bodies  of  deep  water  are 
modified  in  temperature.  The  cold  waves  in  this  State 
come  from  the  north  or  northwest.  Bodies  of  water  on 
the  north  or  northwest  therefore  afford  more  or  less  pro- 
tection from  cold  according  to  their  extent  and  proxim- 
ity. In  sections  where  there  is  severe  cold  in  winter, 
situations  thus  pi'otected,  are  especially  desirable. 

Forest  Protection. — The  orange  when  properly  pro- 
tected will  stand  considerable  cold.  This  is  true  of  other 
tender  plants ;  geraniums  exposed  all  night  in  freezing 
weather  will  survive  if  moved  early  in  the  morning  and 
allowed  to  thaw  out  gradually  in  a  cool  dark  celler. 
For  the  same  reason,  orange  trees,  if  shielded  from  the 
morning  sun  by  forest  trees  or  other  shade,  are  less  liable 
to  injury  from  frost.     It  is  the  sun  which  damages  the 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  11 

trees  after  a  severe  frost  by  thawing  the  congealed  sap 
too  rapidly  and  destroying  the  life  of  the  part  wherever 
the  sap  vessels  are  rnptured,  if  a  cloudy  day  ensues,  no 
harm  is  done.  Bodies  of  water  protect  by  keeping  the 
temperature  above  the  point  of  injury ;  forest  shade  pro- 
tects by  shielding  from  the  sun  when  the  temperature 
falls  below  this  point. 

Forest  Culture. — The  advantages  of  forest  protec- 
tion has  led  to  the  advocacy,  and  in  some  cases,  to  the 
practice  of  forest  culture ;  that  is  to  say,  the  cultivation 
of  the  orange  between  strips  or  belts  of  timber  arranged 
to  shade  the  trees  during  the  forepart  of  the  day. 
Upon  high  sand  hammocks  covered  with  those  species  of 
deep-rooted,  hard  wood  trees,  which  do  not  interfere 
with  the  growth  of  the  orange,  this  is  an  excellent  plan. 
As  much  of  the  orange  region  lies  below  the  necessity  of 
such  protection,  as  some  lands  that  are  already  cleared, 
and  the  bulk  of  the  orange  lands  being  pine  land,  where 
the  timber  would  afford  too  little  shade  to  be  of  use,  and 
where,  like  that  upon  much  of  the  hammock  land,  it  is 
unsuited  to  the  purpose  and  uncongenial  to  the  orange, 
this  plan  will  probably  never  be  largely  adopted.  It 
will  not  pay  to  plant  trees  for  this  purpose,  as  the 
orange  trees  will  protect  themselves  as  soon  as  they  at- 
tain sufficient  size.  When  this  method  is  adopted  the 
requisites  to  success  are:  keeping  the  forest  roots  fi-om 
interfering  with  the  orange  trees ;  cultivating  the  latter 
as  thoroughly  as  upon  open  land  ;  and  while  keeping 
the  morning  sun  from  the  trees  in  winter,  to  allow  the 
sun  to  reach  them  a  portion  of  the  time,  which  is  neces- 
sary to  the  perfect  development  of  tree  and  fruit. 

Wind  -  Breaks. — Upon  the  coast  and  in  some  other 
sections  of  the  State,  violent  winds  do  considerable  dam- 
age to  the  trees.  But  generally  throughout  the  orange 
region  the  necessity  of  wind-breaks  is  not  yet  felt.     As 


^2  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

the  country  is  denuded  of  its  forests  the  winds  will  have 
greater  sweep.  In  those  sections  liable  to  violent  winds, 
and  indeed,  in  any  locality  which  will  be  without 
shelter  from  the  winds  when  the  timber  has  been  cleared 
away,  it  is  the  part  of  wisdom  to  leave  or  plant  belts  of 
forest  trees  upon  the  side  of  the  grove  from  which  the 
most  severe  winds  come.  There  are  many  species  v)f 
deep  rooted,  strong  growing,  shapely  forest  trees  in  the 
State  which  would  serve  this  purpose  admirably.  There 
is  an  important  exception  to  the  benefits  of  surrounding 
belts  of  timber  to  be  noted  in  those  sections  where  there 
is  danger  from  frost.  In  such  localities,  timber  upon 
the  north  or  west  does  more  damage  by  causing  the 
cold  to  settle  down  with  greater  intensity  and  by  re- 
flecting powerfully  the  rays  of  the  morning  sun,  than  it 
does  good  by  shielding  from  the  wind.  Timber  upon 
the  south  and  east  is  not  open  to  this  objection,  but  is 
rather  beneficial  as  we  have  seen  above.  Much  of  the 
damage  done  to  the  tree,  but  especially  to  the  fruit,  by 
being  whipped  about  in  the  wind,  is  caused  by  thorns, 
and  can  be  avoided  by  planting  t hornless  trees. 


CHAPTER    II 


SOIL. 

^»r^  IGH  HAMMOCK.— "High  hammocks  are 
^^1^  found  iu  many  poilions  of  the  State,  and  are 
>^S^  generally  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
^"^  magnolia,  live  and  w  hite  oak,  hickory  and  other 
hard  wood  trees.  The  surface  soil  in  these  high  ham 
mocks  is  usually  deep,  consisting  of  all  intermediate 
grades  between  a  light  and  rather  heavy  loam,  with  a 
sub-soil  of  sandy  loam  or  a  ferruginous  clay."  In  some 
places  the  soil  is  mixed  with  shell,  and  where  not  too 
abundant,  they  are  not  detrimental.  To  many,  the  word 
hammock  conveys  the  idea  of  low  land,  but  much  of  the 
best  hammock  land  is  high,  and  constitutes  the  richest 
and  most  productive  land  iu  the  State.  High  ham- 
mocks of  the  first  quality,  having  deep  soil  and  heavy 
hard  wood  timber,  are  probably  the  best  orange  lands  in 
the  State. 

Low  Hammock. — "Low  hammocks  are  distributed 
over  the  State,  and  are  generally  covered  with  palms, 
live  and  evergreen  oaks,  bays,  cedar,  etc.  They  are  dif- 
ficult to  clear,  but  not  more  so  than  the  rich  timbered 
lands  of  the  North  and  West.  If  ditched  and  em- 
banked when  low  or  near  streams,  to  guard  them  against 
extraordinary  floods  and  rains,  they  would  furnish  for 
cultivation  some  of  the  richest  lands  in  the  State.  In 
these  hammocks  is  found  a  dark  vegetable  mould,  from 
one  to  two  feet  in  depth,  below  which  a  dark  sand  exists, 


14  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

generally  becoming  paler  until  clay  or  limestone  rock 
i<  reached."  Low  hammock  lands  are  more  expensive 
to  prepare  for  trees  than  high  hammocks.  They  em- 
brace the  richest  lands  in  the  State,  and  when  of  good 
quality  and  above  liability  to  overflow,  they  probably 
yield  the  quickest  returns  of  any  soil. 

High  Pine  Lauds. — "  The  elevated  and  undulating 
pine  lands  are  remarkable  for  their  beauty,  salubrity 
and  productiveness.  The  timber  is  generally  large,  tall 
and  straight."  There  is  no  undergrowth  excepting  scat- 
tering dwarf  oaks,  and  a  few  hickories  in  some  places, 
the  ground  being  covered  with  wire  grass.  "  These 
lands  have  a  surface  soil  of  fair  depth,  containing  a 
large  amount  of  vegetable  matter.  Beneath  the  surface 
soil  will  be  found  a  stratum  of  loamy  sand  of  variable 
depth,  and  beneath  this,  clay.  In  some  localities  the 
clay  is  near  the  surface."  High  pine  lands  are  compar- 
itively  poor,  and  require  liberal  applications  of  ferti- 
lizers to  produce  the  best  results ;  in  other  particulars 
they  have  the  same  general  advantages  of  high  ham- 
mocks. The  soil  is  esteemed  as  good,  better,  or  best,  ac- 
cording, as  the  timber  is  exclusively  pine,  oak  and  pine, 
or  hickory  and  pine. 

Low  Pilie  Land. — Low  pine  lands  may  be  divided 
into  two  classes,  namely.  Flat  Pine  Land  and  Lower 
Pine  Land.  Flat  pine  lands  are  found  at  points  in  the 
interior,  along  some  of  the  river's,  and  near  the  coasts. 
Some  are  covered  with  a  growth  of  bushes,  and  sparsely 
supplied  with  grass  and  pine  trees,  others  are  covered 
with  medium  sized  pine  timber  and  wire  grass,  and  still 
others  consist  of  savannahs,  without  trees  or  bushes. 
During  the  rainy  season  these  lands  are  liable  to  over- 
flow, and  as  a  consequence  are  unfit  for  cultivation.  In 
some  of  the  flat  lands  there  will  be  found  a  layer  of 
hard  pan  or  clay.     At  some  points  the  surface  soil  is 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  15 

black,  deep  and  apparently  productive,  but  in  dry 
weather  it  bakes,  and  is  unsuitable  for  gardening  or  ag- 
ricultural purposes. 

"  Lower  pine  lauds  are  not  subject  to  overflow  during 
the  rainy  season.  One  objection  to  some  of  them  is  the 
fact  that  they  are  encumbered  with  bushes  and  saw  pal- 
metto, and  are  difficult  to  clear,"  Others  have  no  un- 
dergrowth save  the  common  wire  grass.  These  lands 
are  underlaid  with  sand  or  clay,  or  where  hard  pan  is 
found  it  is  too  deep  to  be  injurious.  They  are  either 
naturally  drained  or  susceptible  of  thorough  artificial 
drainage,  and  are  amons:  the  best  pine  lands  in  the  State. 

The  above  distinction  between  "  flat  pine  lands  "  and 
"  lower  pine  lands  "  should  be  observed,  In  common 
usage  the  terms  "  low  pine  land  "  and  "  flat  woods  "  are 
applied  indiscriminately  to  all  pine  lands  excepting  the 
high  rolling  pine  land  and  scrubs  of  the  interior,  em- 
bracing a  varied  range  of  surface  from  overflowed  bot- 
toms to  elevated  level  tracts  sufficiently  inclined  to  carry 
off"  surplus  water.  The  quality  of  the  soil  differs  as 
widely  as  the  appearance  of  the  surface  ;  in  some  places 
(described  above  as  "  flat  pine  lands  ")  it  is  unfit  for 
culture  of  any  kind,  while  in  others,  (described  above  as 
"lower  pine  lands  ")  it  is  adapted  to  the  orange  or  other 
crops.  From  failures  made  upon  the  former,  a  general 
prejudice  has  arisen  against  low  pine  lands;  some  writers 
go  so  far  as  to  condemn  their  use  entirely  for  orange 
culture,  failing  to  recognize  the  fact  that  there  is  a  vast 
difference  in  the  land  they  thus  include  in  a  sweeping 
denunciation.  Upon  the  better  class  of  these  lands  are 
located  some  of  the  finest  groves  in  the  State,  many  of 
which  have  been  brought  into  successful  bearing,  and  it 
is  high  time  that  a  distinction  be  made  between  worth- 
less "  flat  woods  "  and  low  pine  lands  that  are  really 
excellent. 


16  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

Scrub  Land. — Scrub  lands  have  a  coarse  white,  or 
poor  yellowish,  sandy  soil.  In  the  scrub  sections  water 
is  scarce.  The  timber  usually  consists  of  stunted  pine 
and  oak.  Notwithstanding  the  poverty  of  scrub  lands, 
some  large  groves  have  been  made  upon  them  by  irri- 
gation and  extensive  fertilization.  It  is  very  doubtful 
however,  whether  they  can  be  profitably  utilized  for 
orange  culture  to  any  considerable  extent. 

The  Best  Soil  for  Orange  Culture. — It  costs  less 
to  clear  and  prepare  high  lands  than  low  ;  they  du  not, 
like  the  latter,  require  exjiensive  drainage,  and  when 
properly  cultivated  are  not  more  liable  to  suffer  from 
drought.  Still,  low  lands  (either  pine  or  hammock,) 
which  are  adapted  to  the  orange,  are  profitably  cultiva- 
ted, yielding  perhaps  quicker  results,  though  the  trees 
do  not  attain  as  large  size  or  as  great  age  as  on  high 
land.  High  hammock,  high  pine,  low  hammock,  and 
low  pine  are  generally  valued  for  orange  culture  in  the 
order  mentioned,  though  the  orange  succeeds  upon  them 
all,  and  each  class  of  soil  has  its  advocates  who  regard 
it  as  yielding  the  best  results. 

In  the  above  chapter  the  quotations  are  from  an  article  on 
the  soils  of  Florida,  by  Dr.  C.  J.  Kenworthy,  in  which  he  di- 
vides the  lands  of  the  State  topographically  into  Flat  Pine 
Lands,  Elevatad  Pine  Lands,  Lower  Pine  Lands,  Low  Ham- 
mocks, High  Hammocks,  Scrubs,  Prairies,  Swamps  and 
Marshes. 


^'^cA^(^<^^^ts)A.>2 


CHAPTER    III. 


PREPARING   THE   GROUND. 


'ANY  iu  their  haste  to  get  trees  into  the 
ground  neglect  to  give  the  soil  the  proper  prepa- 
ration ;  time  is  lost  rather  than  gained  by 
this,  as  the  trees  will  do  no  good  until  the  soil 
is  in  condition  for  their  growth,  and  thej'^  are  very  liable 
to  become  diseased  or  stunted.  The  trees  will  be  further 
advanced  in  a  few  years  time  if  planted  on  soil  which 
has  been  thoroughly  prepared,  even  if  this  delays  the 
operation  an  entire  year. 

Wild  Land. — If  the  grove  is  to  be  made  on  wild 
land,  the  first  work  of  preparation  is  to  cut  and  clear 
a\vay  the  timber.  Some  high  pine  and  high  hammock 
lands  are  naturally  so  sweet  and  friable  that  trees  do 
well  planted  before  the  land  is  cleared  of  roots  or 
plowed,  provided  places  for  the  trees  are  thoroughly  dug 
over,  pulverized,  and  all  the  roots,  turf,  etc.,  removed. 
Even  when  this  plan  is  pursued  on  lands  that  will  ad- 
mit of  it,  the  general  surface  must  be  broken  immedi- 
ately after  the  trees  are  set,  or  they  will  soon  suffer. 
Although  there  are  exceptional  instances  where  with 
proper  treatment  the  trees  can  be  set  before  the  land  is 
broken,  as  a  general  rule  it  is  far  better  not  to  plant 
until  the  entire  surface  has  been  prepared.  High  pine 
land  can  often  be  broken  with  the  plow  as  soon  as  the 
timber  is  cleared  away,  on  other  pine  and  all  ham- 
mock lauds,  the  roots  must  be  grubbed  out  or  removed 


18  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE   ON 

before  the  plowing  can  be  done.  The  removal  of  stamps 
is  not  necessary,  but  renders  subsequent  culture  much 
easier.  After  it  has  been  thoroughly  broken  with  the 
plow,  the  soil  should  be  smoothed  with  harrow  or  drag 
that  the  trees  may  be  planted  upon  the  same  level. 
When  the  land  is  very  new,  large  holes  should  be  dug 
where  the  trees  are  to  be  planted,  and  after  the  earth 
has  been  sweetened  by  sun  and  air,  it  should  be  returned 
to  the  holes  again. 

Low  Land. — Low  lands,  especially  low  pine  lands, 
are  more  difficult  to  subdue  than  higher  lands.  Owing 
to  their  saturation  with  water,  they  are  often  very  sour, 
requiring  some  time  and  effort  to  reduce  them  to  a 
proper  pulverulent  state.  Such  soils  should  never  have 
trees  set  upon  them  until  in  condition  for  their  reception. 
If  necessary,  it  is  far  better  to  defer  planting  until  some 
other  crop  has  been  first  grown  upon  the  soil.  Upon 
low  land  it  is  a  good  plan  where  practicable  to  plant  the 
trees  on  beds  thrown  up  by  the  plow  with  w^ater  furrows 
between  the  rows  to  conduct  heavy  rain-fall  to  the 
ditches.  These  beds  should  be  raised  from  one  to  three 
feet  above  the  surface,  as  the  case  may  require. 

Drainage. — The  great  desideratum  upon  low  lands, 
and  all  soils  liable  to  become  saturated  with  water, 
'  is  drainage.  At  present,  this  is  usually  accomplished 
by  opan  drains  or  ditches.  Wherever  possible,  under- 
drainage  should  be  substituted,  it  is  more  expensive  at 
the  start,  but  in  course  of  a  few  years  will  have  cost  less, 
occasioned  less  annoyance,  and  been  more  efficient  than 
open  drains.  Under-drains  work  admirably  where  there 
is  much  less  fall  than  is  generally  supposed.  The  writer 
has  succeeded  in  thoroughly  under-draining  a  piece  of 
low  land  where  there  was  but  one  inch  of  fall  in  every 
ten  feet  of  the  drain,  the  latter  being  some  six  hundred 
feet  in  length.     Tiles  when  properly  laid,  make  the  most 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  -19 

durable  drain,  but  in  this  State  they  are  quite  expensive, 
and  unless  put  down  with  great  care,  are  liable  to  fill  up 
with  the  fine  sand  which  constitutes  so  large  a  portion  of 
the  soil.  The  tiles  being  short  (usually  fourteen  to  six- 
teen inches),  it  is  very  difficult  to  lay  them  in  such  a 
soil  so  as  to  retain  their  position.  Owing  to  inequalities 
in  the  ground  or  imperfect  laying,  they  are  liable  to 
sink  in  places  from  the  general  inclination  of  the  drain, 
thus  forming  corners  which  collect  debris  and  eventually 
clog  the  drain.  The  only  way  to  remedy  such  a  stop- 
page is  to  remove  all  the  tiles  until  the  defective  place 
is  reached.  In  a  stiff  clay  soil  these  objections  would 
have  less  weight.  Drains  of  "  heart  pine  "  lumber  will 
last  for  years,  cost  much  less  than  tile,  and  are  more 
easily  and  less  expensively  laid.  Another  advantage  of 
board  drains  over  tile  is  that  they  are  in  longer  sections, 
(they  should  be  made  twenty  feet  or  more  in  length) 
and  are  therefore  not  liable  to  sink  from  the  position  in 
which  they  are  placed.  When  properly  constructed, 
drains  of  this  character  can  be  readily  cleaned  without 
being  taken  up,  in  fact,  it  costs  less  to  clean  them  than  it 
does  to  clean  open  drains.  To  be  efficient,  ditches  must 
be  reopened  in  our  soil  as  often  as  once  a  year,  while  un- 
der-drains  of  "  heart-pine  "  will  last  for  years  without 
clogging.  The  drains  above  referred  to  have  now  been 
laid  six  years,  and  are  still  working  perfectly.  Board 
drains  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  V  probably  clear  them- 
selves better  than  square  box  drains,  but  the  latter  will 
do  good  work  for  a  very  long  time,  and  the  writer  has 
found  them  easier  of  construction,  more  convenient  to 
clean,  and  for  practical  use,  the  best.  The  boxes  should 
be  made  in  as  long  sections  as  possible.  The  sides  should 
be  lapped  over  and  nailed  to  the  edges  of  the  bottom, 
the  top  rests  upon  the  sides  unnailed,  being  held  in  place 
by  cleats  nailed  upon  the  underside  of  the  top,  and  fit- 


20 


MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON" 


ting  between  the  sides.  The  bottom  board  and  the  cleats 
on  the  top,  being  between  the  sides,  and  the  top  resting 
upon  the  sides  presents  the  greatest  possible  resistance 
to  pressure.  The  following  diagram  represents  a  trans- 
verse section  of  the  drain  as  thus  constructed  : 

C A  A  represent   the 

I  sides,  B  the  bottom, 
C  the  top,  and  D  the 
cleats  nailed  to  the 
under  side  of  the  top. 
By  digging  down  to 
and  removing  the 
unfastened  top,  the 
drain  can  easily  be 
cleaned  with  a  hoe 
of  the  same  width 
as  the  inside  of  the 
drain.  The  size  of 
drains  and  their  dis- 


B 


tance  apart  should  be  governed  by  their  length  and 
tiie  amount  of  fall  they  have.  Drains  five  or  six 
inches  in  diameter  placed  fifty  or  sixty  feet  apart  will 
afford  thorough  drainage  where  there  is  as  little  descent 
as  will  render  under-drainage  possible.  Where  the  de- 
scent is  greater  they  can  be  placed  farther  apart  and 
have  less  diameter.  To  lay  under-drains  does  not  re- 
quire as  much  excavating  as  for  open  drains,  a  narrow 
opening  just  wide  enough  at  the  bottom  to  receive  the 
boxes  is  sufficient.  Where  there  is  danger  of  caving, 
the  opening  should  be  made  and  the  drains  laid  one 
section  at  a  time.  The  depth  of  the  drain  will  depend 
somewhat  upon  circumstances,  the  deeper  they  are,  the 
greater  will  be  the  amount  of  soil  drained.  Where 
they  cannot  be  laid  deeper,  if  simply  placed  below  the 
reach  of  the  plow-share  they  will  dry  out  the  soil  a 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  21 

great  deal.  From  two  to  four  feet  is  the  best  depth  in 
average  Florida  soil.  The  drains  should  be  laid  at 
right  angles  with  or  diagonally  across  the  steepest  nat- 
ural descent  of  the  surface.  In  this  way  they  intercept 
the  water  courses  in  the  soil,  and  carry  off  the  water 
much  more  effectually  than  if  laid  in  the  same  direc- 
tion the  latter  flows. 


CHAPTER    IV 


CHOICE   OF   TREES. 

ORKS  heretofore  published  upon  orange 
culture  have  devoted  considerable  space  to 
methods  of  raising  young  plants  until  ready 
for  transplanting  into  grove  form.  Until  re- 
cently such  knowledge  has  been  useful,  and,  indeed, 
necessary  to  the  grower,  as  he  must  needs  raise  his  own 
trees  or  buy  from  a  neighbor  having  a  surplus.  As 
trees  for  j^lanting  out  are  now  supplied  almost  entirely 
by  specialists  giving  their  exclusive  attention  to  this 
branch  of  the  business,  the  author  has  omitted  all  con- 
sideration of  the  subject  as  foreign  to  the  purpose  in 
a  work  of  this  kind.  A  nurseryman  possessing  the 
requisite  knowledge  and  necessary  facilities  for  propaga- 
ting upon  a  large  scale,  can  supply  the  grower  with 
trees  of  better  quality  and  at  less  expense  than  he  could 
produce  himself,  saving  him  besides  much  annoyance 
and  a  considerable  loss  of  valuable  time.  Trees  grown 
upon  the  most  approved  plan  receive  close  attention, 
and  are  kept  vigorously  growing  from  the  germina- 
tion of  the  seed  until  ready  for  planting ;  they  are 
propagated  from  the  best  varieties,  and  are  pruned 
and  trained  systematically  to  produce  the  best  shaped 
trees  in  the  shortest  time.  The  grower  cannot  be 
too  careful  in  selecting  his  trees.  It  does  not  pay 
to  plant  poor  trees ;  they  are  dear  at  any  price.  If  of 
inferior  variety,  they  must  be  rebudded  ;  if  affected  by 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  23 

disease  or  insect,  they  must  be  treated ;  if  stunted,  they 
must  be  revitalized';  if  they  have  grown  unpruned  or 
misshapen,  they  must  be  trained  into  proper  form ;  if 
too  old  or  too  large,  an  unsatisfactory  result  is  attended 
by  no  end  of  risk  and  pains  ;  all  of  which  causes  trouble 
and  expense,  and  greatly  retards  the  ultimate  perfection 
of  the  grove.  If  the  best  result  is  to  be  obtained,  the 
trees  must  be  up  to  the  standard  in  variety,  size,  age, 
stock,  shape,  etc.,  and  must  also  be  properly  handled 
from  the  nursery  to  their  place  in  the  grove. 

Variety. — This  is  a  subject  of  so  much  importance 
that  its  consideration  is  reserved  to  the  next  chapter. 

Age. — It  is  an  important  fact  that  as  a  rule  healthy 
budded  orange  trees  bear  as  soon  as  they  attain  suf- 
ficient size  to  hold  fruit.  Where  there  is  a  difference 
in  the  time  of  bearing  it  is  due  to  variety  rather  than 
age.  The  supposition  that  the  older  an  orange  tree  is, 
the  sooner  it  will  bear,  is  a  mistake,  so  far  as  budded 
trees  are  concerned.  A  tree  crowded  in  nursery  rows, 
or  otherwise  neglected,  will  remain  long  past  the  bear- 
ing age  dwarfed  in  size  and  without  fruit,  while  younger 
trees  in  grove  form  are  full  sized  and  bearing  heavy 
crops.  A  tree  four  years  old  has  no  advantage  over  a 
tree  two  years  old  of  the  same  size ;  the  former  may 
bear  first  a  few  premature  fruit  owing  to  its  stunted 
condition;  but  the  latter  will  grow  more  rapidly,  make 
the  strongest  tree,  and  bear  profitable  crops  soonest. 
The  younger  a  tree  of  a  given  size  the  more  desirable, 
as  it  indicates  vigorous  growth.  Size  and  thrift  are, 
therefore,  the  important  considerations,  rather  than  age. 

Size. — Upon  the  advantages  of  small  trees,  a  recent 
number  of  the  Florida  Dispatch  says :  "  Nearly  all  new 
beginners  go  in  for  '  big  trees  ' — '  some  that  will  bear 
right  ofl^.'  To  such  readers  we  would  say  that  in  select- 
ing trees  for  transplanting  the  largest  are  not  the  best. 


24  MAXVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

Medium-sized  trees  have  better  roots,  are  easier  handled, 
are  less  liable  to  injury  from  transportation,  start 
quicker  and  grow  faster  than  tall'  plants  that  have 
been  drawn  up  weakly  in  thick  nursery  rows.  Old 
trees  have  wider  spread  roots,  which  are  certain  to  be 
severely  abridged  in  the  lifting.  The  tops  must  then 
be  pruned  severely  to  correspond  with  the  destruction 
of  the  roots,  so  that  there  is  nothing  gained  in  the  way 
of  size,  and  the  check  or  'set  back'  to  old  or  larger 
trees  is  often  fatal.  *  *  *  *  Plant  small  or  me- 
dium sized  trees,  of  healthy,  vigorous  growth,  and  hav- 
ing plenty  of  roots,  and  let  the  impatient  '  green  hoi'ns' 
tussle  with  the  big  trees  !"  As  a  general  rule  nothing 
is  gained  by  planting  large  trees,  smaller  trees  will  over- 
take them  in  a  few  years ;  they  are  besides  less  expen- 
sive, as  to  first  cost,  transportation,  planting,  etc.  A 
bud  of  one  year's  growth  upon  a  stock  two  or  three 
years  old  is  the  most  profitable  and  convenient  size 
and  age. 

Thorns. — It  is  much  more  agreeable  to  work  among 
trees  which  have  no  thorns.  Thorns  on  bearing  trees 
are  very  liable  to  puncture  the  fruit,  especially  in 
windy  weather,  causing  it  to  decay  and  drop  ofi".  The 
writer  has  seen  thorny  trees  shed  a  large  portion  of  their 
crop  on  this  account.  Those  leading  varieties  which 
are  thornless  or  nearly  so,  other  things  being  equal,  are 
much  the  most  desirable. 

Shape. — At  the  age  and  size  above  mentioned  the 
stock  should  be  smooth  and  straight,  budded  from  six 
inches  to  one  foot  from  the  ground,  not  extending  above 
the  bud,  but  cut  off  smoothly  at  a  slight  angle  just 
above  it.  The  bud  should  have  one  upright  stem,  and 
if  branched,  the  branches  should  be  straight  and  uni- 
form, but  not  emanating  from  or  near  the  point  of  union 
with  the  stock. 


ypPlQUf  UBIAR^ 


rJi^t 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  25 

Fibrous  Roots. — To  have  an  abundance  of  fibrous 
roote,  an  item  of  great  importance,  nursery  trees  uiust 
be  from  a  loose,  dry  and  moderately  fertile  soil.  Trees 
from  low,  rich  land  are  apt  to  have  developed  a  luxu- 
riant foliage  out  of  proportion  to  their  roots,  as  the  lat- 
ter finding  food  and  moisture  at  hand  are  not  properly 
developed.  High  land  grown  trees  do  quite  as  well  if 
transplanted  to  a  low  soil,  and  for  high  land  planting 
are  far  preferable  to  trees  from  low  land.  Transplant- 
ing is  also  an  efficient  means  of  developing  fibrous 
roots.  A  severed  root  throws  out  immediately  numer- 
ous rootlets;  transplanting  produces  the  same  efliect  upon 
all  the  roots  of  the  tree.  Nursery  stocks  are  trans- 
planted once  or  more  at  an  age  and  time  when  their 
growth  is  not  retarded,  thus  securing  an  abundance  of 
fibrous  roots.  A  transplanted  tree,  which  has  been 
thoroughly  cultivated  in  a  dry,  loose  soil,  will  have  no 
lack  of  fibrous  roots. 

Stock. — The  sour  orange  germanates  more  readily, 
grows  more  vigorously,  and  is  less  liable  to  injury  from 
disease,  insect,  or  frost  than  the  sweet.  For  these 
reasons,  and  on  account  of  its  habit  of  throwing  up 
strong,  vigorous  shoots,  it  is  generally  preferred  as  a 
stock  on  which  to  propagate  the  latter.  The  sweet 
orange  makes  a  very  fair  stock,  however,  and  after  the 
trees  are  budded,  and  attain  the  proper  size  for  planting 
in  grove,  there  is  perhaps  little  to  chose  between  them. 
The  lemon,  shaddock,  and  other  strong  growing  species, 
are  too  tender  to  use  for  stocks,  except  in  the  extreme 
southern  part  of  the  State. 

Method  of  Propagation. — Although  the  orange 
can  be  grafted  or  layered,  it  is  generally  propagated  by 
budding  or  from  the  seed.  In  common  with  other  fruit 
trees  the  varieties  do  not  reproduce  themselves  from  the 
seed.     Budding  is,  therefore,  the  only  way  of  obtaining 


26  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

the  best,  or  indeed  any  particular  variety.  Were  this 
its  only  advantage  it  would  be  a  sufficient  reason  for 
discarding  seedlings  altogether.  In  practice,  this  is  gen- 
erally done,  few  seedlings  being  now  planted  in  grove. 
Still,  as  the  latter  are  advocated  by  some,  a  word  upon 
the  well-worn  subject  of  budded  trees  vs.  seedlings  will 
be  pardoned.  As  we  have  seen,  budded  trees  bear,  as 
soon  as  they  are  large  enough,  fruit  of  a  predetermined 
quality ;  while  it  takes  certainly  twice,  probably  three 
times  as  long  for  the  seedling  to  reach  the  age  for  pro- 
ducing fruit,  which  is  good,  bad  or  indifferent,  as  the 
case  may  be,  and  the  probability  is  it  will  be  mediocre, 
in  quality,  possibly  decidedly  inferior.  This  loss  of 
time  is  a  matter  of  no  small  importance  to  the  grower, 
es])ecially  as  there  is  no  compensating  gain.  The  low, 
spreading  head  of  the  budded  tree,  with  few  thorns  and 
interior  limbs,  is  a  far  more  desirable  shape  than  the 
tall,  compact  seedling,  with  its  interwoven  branches  and 
armament  of  thorns,  rendering  culture  unpleasant,  and 
the  gathering  of  the  fruit  from  the  topmost  branches  a 
hazardous  undertaking,  to  say  nothing  of  the  loss  of 
fruit  from  being  punctured  by  thorns.  Some  claim 
that  budded  trees  grow  smaller,  and  are,  therefore,  less 
desirable  than  seedlings.  Even  were  this  true,  and  it 
is  an  undetermined  question,  it  would  really  be  an  ad- 
vantage, as  the  same  quantity  of  fruit  could  be  pro- 
duced by  closer  planting,  and  the  care  of  the  trees  and 
the  gathei'ing  of  the  crop  would  be  more  easily  accom- 
plished. The  most  weighty  objection  that  has  been 
urged  against  budded  trees  is  that  they  are  compara- 
tively short-lived.  The  analogy  of  nature  would  seem 
to  bear  out  this  conclusion.  As  a  general  rule,  those 
plants  and  animals  which  arrive  at  maturity  early  are 
proportionately  short-lived.  The  orange  is,  however,  a 
tree  of  great  longevity,  and  even  if  budded,  trees  are 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  27 

somewhat  shorter  lived,  a  fact  that  remains  to  be  dem- 
onstrated, the  difference  is  so  inconsiderable  as  to  be 
practically  of  little  consequence.  In  Europe,  where 
budding  is  the  exclusive  method  of  propagation,  trees 
are  to  be  found  several  hundred  years  old.  In  this 
State,  budded  groves,  which  were  bearing  when  killed 
to  the  ground  by  the  great  frost  in  1835,  are  still 
thriving,  with  apparently  undiminished  vigor.  It 
should  be  borne  in  mind  that  by  simply  planting  bud- 
ded trees,  good  fruit  is  by  no  means  secured.  Inferior 
fruit  is  quite  as  easily  propagated  by  budding  as  fruit 
of  a  better  quality.  The  important  point  is  to  have  the 
trees  of  a  really  superior  variety. 


CHAPTER    V 


SELECTION    OF    VARIETIES. 

:5^UCCESS  in  orange  culture  comprises: 

First. — The  early  and  healthy  maturity  of  the 
trees.  This  necessitates  congenial  location  and 
soil;  careful  selection  of  trees  as  to  size,  mode  of 
propagation,  and  thrift,  and  correct  methods  of  treat- 
ment. 

Second. — An  abundant  crop  commanding  the  highest 
market  price.  Which  involves  all  of  the  above  condi- 
tions with  this  important  addition,  the  variety  must  be  of 
superior  quality.  Leaving  out  this  one  consideration 
and  however  vigorous  and  prolific  the  trees,  the  success 
is  but  partial — neither  in  perfection  of  fruit  nor  finan- 
cial return  is  the  best  result  obtained.  Just  here  a  vital 
mistake  is  often  made. 

It  may  be  asked :  Is  the  selection  of  a  so-called 
superior  variety  a  guarantee  that  the  fruit  produced 
will  be  of  superior  quality?  In  other  words  do  not 
many  trees  of  the  Magnum  Bonum,  Homosassa  and 
other  approved  sorts  produce  inferior  fruit?  It  is  true 
that  trees  of  the  best  varieties  under  unfavorable  condi- 
tions produce  fruit  of  comparatively  inferior  quality, 
inferior  perhaps  to  a  really  ordinary  fruit  growing  under 
more  favorable  circumstances.  But  the  superior  variety 
possesses  inherent  capabilities  of  development  entirely 
wanting  in  the  inferior  sort.  Proper  treatment  will 
encourage   the  one  to  produce  fruit  of  an  excellence 


ORANGE   CULTURE.  29 

which  no  amount  of  high  culture  could  obtain  from  the 
other.  A  superior  variety  produces  the  best  possible 
fruit  under  the  circumstances,  and  if  the  grower  fails  to 
supply  the  conditions  necessary  to  its  most  perfect 
development  it  cannot  be  reasonably  adduced  as  evidence 
of  its  wanting  in  excellence.  Again  it  may  be  asked  : 
Of  what  use  are  varieties  which  cannot  be  distinguished 
the  one  from  the  other,  as  is  the  case  with  many  of  the  im- 
proved sorts?  It  is  quite  possible  that  fruit  is  produced 
in  many  localities  equal  to  those  varieties  which  have  been 
named  and  described,  but  there  is  no  way  for  the  grower 
to  ascertain  this  fact ;  as  the  former  have  only  been  tested 
in  particular  localities  whereas  the  latter  are  of  superior 
excellence  as  compared  with  the  best  production  of  the 
State.  It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that  the  fruit  pro- 
duced be  superior  as  it  is  now  rated  in  market  strictly 
according  to  quality.  "An  orange  is  an  orange"  no 
longer.  It  is  of  little  moment  to  the  grower  whether 
his  fruit  is  sold  as  Magnum  Bonum  or  Horaosassa  or 
not,  but  it  is  of  the  utmost  im  )ortance  to  him  that  his 
fruits  brings  the  highest  price  in  market  where  fruit  of 
superior  quality  brings  double  the  price  of  inferior  fruit 
as  at  present.  Again,  there  are  varieties  which  are  and 
always  will  be  sold  by  name.  Fruit  of  the  Early  Ob- 
long variety  shipped  from  the  w'riter's  vicinity  last  Sep- 
tember and  October  brought  the  highest  price  obtained 
during  the  season,  solely  on  account  of  its  earliness,  as 
the  better  varieties  of  mid-season  fruit  were  really  su- 
perior to  it  in  quality.  The  Du  Roi  on  account  of  its 
excellent  quality  and  peculiar  appearance  brought  a 
higher  price  than  first-class  fruit  without  distinctive 
marks.  Navel  oranges  shipped  by  the  writer  averaging 
one  hundred  to  the  box  brought  fifty  cents  to  one  dollar 
per  box  more  than  the  best  fruit  of  other  sorts,, 
which  averaged  one  hundred  and  fortv  tc  one  hundred 


30  MANVILLEis  TREATISE  ON 

and  sixty  to  the  box.  The  Bijou  Mandarin  sold  for 
seven  dollars  and  a  half  per  box  upon  the  trees 
when  other  varieties  were  bringing  two  dollars 
and  a  half.  The  latter  may  indicate  a  fancy 
and  unstable  demand,  but  the  other  cases  men- 
tioned indicate  the  normal  condition  of  the  market. 
Many  other  instances  of  like  character  might  be  adduced 
in  demonstration  of  the  same  point. 

In  planting  for  profit  a  person  unacquainted  with 
the  many  sorts  might  have  some  difficulty  in  choosing 
intelligently.  The  following  hints  on  the  relative  merits 
of  the  principal  varieties  of  the  orange  may  serve  to  pre- 
vent confusion  and  to  facilitate  selection.  A  complete 
classification  and  description  of  the  species  and  varieties 
of  the  citrus  as  grown  in  Florida  appears  in  the  appen- 
dix to  this  work,  to  which  the  reader  is  referred  for 
more  particular  information  regarding  the  different 
species  and  their  several  varieties. 

The  Sweet  Orange. — This  species  has  many  varieties 
and  some  have  claimed  that  their  peculiarities  of  size, 
form,  color,  and  habit  of  growth,  result  mainly  from  soil, 
cultivation,  etc.  From  the  following  this  will  be  seen 
to  be  erroneous,  there  being  many  leading  varieties 
which  have  distinctive  characteristics,  and  numerous 
others  which,  though  differing  little  from  each  other, 
are  vastly  superior  to  the  average  Florida  product  of  no 
special  variety. 

The  Early  Oblong  or  Thornless  Bell  and  the  Egg,  are, 
strictly  speaking,  the  only  early  varieties  we  have. 
They  are  sweet  but  somewhat  insipid  and  rather  inferior 
as  compared  with  some  of  the  mid-season  varieties. 
They  are  desirable,  however,  as  they  reach  their  perfec- 
tion before  any  of  the  other  varieties  are  fit  for  use. 
Their  juices  are  matured  in  September  and  October,  and 
if  gathered  at  this  season,  properly  "colored   up"  and 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  31 

shipped,  iliey  bring  a  high  price,  as  they  reach  market 
before  foreign  or  domestic  fruit  begins  to  come  in.  The 
fruit  has  a  tough  rind,  there  is  little  or  no  loss  from 
cracking  on  the  tree,  and  it  comes  off  before  there  is 
danger  of  its  being  injured  by  frost;  the  tree  is  thornless 
and  prolific ;  it  may  therefore  be  regarded  as  a  good  sort 
for  general  planting.  The  Oblong  is  the  best  for  mar- 
ket and  the  Egg,  which  is  smaller  and  rather  more  juicy, 
is  preferable  for  home  use. 

The  Tardiff  is  the  best  late  sort.  In  appearance  it 
does  not  differ  materially  from  other  first-class  Florida 
oranges  of  the  common  type.  When  other  varieties 
ripen  it  is  tough  and  acid  but  becomes  tender  and  sweet 
later  in  the  season,  remaining  in  perfection  on  the  tree  far 
into  the  summer,  on  which  account  it  is  desirable. 

The  Navel,  in  quality,  is  beyond  comparison  the  finest 
fruit  now  grown  in  Florida.  It  is  always  distinguish- 
able by  its  peculiar  mark,  which,  in  market,  prevents 
deception  and  confusion  regarding  the  genuineness  of 
the  variety.  This  peculiar  umbilical  formation  also 
prevents  the  cracking  of  the  fruit  so  common  with  most 
other  varieties.  This  variety  possesses,  in  fact,  every 
desirable  quality  in  both  fruit  and  tree,  excepting  that 
the  latter  is  not  as  prolific  as  some  other  sorts.  It  is, 
however,  by  no  means  as  shy  a  bearer  as  some  have 
claimed.  As  the  fruit  is  unusually  large  and  heavy, 
bringing  on  account  of  its  quality,  a  higher  price  for  a 
given  bulk  or  weight  than  other  sorts,  it  is,  notwithstand- 
ing its  somewhat  shy  habit,  one  of  the  most  profitable 
varieties. 

Of  the  distinctly  marked  varieties,  the  Du  Roi,  a 
ribbed  fruit  of  medium  size  and  very  prolific,  and  the 
Bell,  a  bell  or  pear-shaped  fruit  not  to  be  confounded 
with  the  Early  Oblong  variety,  have  been  long  fruited 
in  Florida  and  are  of  excellent  quality.     Like  the  above 


32  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

their  peculiar  characteristics  will  always  distinguish  them 
in  market. 

The  Mediterranean  Sweet,  in  the  shape  of  the  tree,  its 
strong  vigorous  habit,  entire  absence  of  thorns,  peculiar, 
luxuriant  and  beautiful  foliage,  is  all  that  could  be  de- 
sired, and  in  these  particulars  superior  to  most  other 
varieties.  The  same  is  true  of  the  Jaffa,  a  variety  of  re- 
cent introduction,  which  promises  well.  The  Mediter- 
ranean Sweet  was  introduced  from  California,  where  it 
is  esteemed  one  of  the  best.  It  has  been  fruited  to  some 
extent  in  this  State.  Thus  far  it  has  proved  an  early 
and  prolific  bearer,  the  fruit  being  of  an  excellent 
quality.  Many  trees  are  being  planted,  and  it  is  proba- 
bly destined  to  be  a  great  favorite. 

The  Blood  has  not  been  fruited  long  enough  in  the 
State  to  determine  its  market  value,  though  most 
growers  plant  a  few  trees. 

Charley  Brown  is  very  distinctly  marked  in  fruit  and 
foliage ;  like  the  above  it  has  not  been  fruited  long 
enough  to  determine  its  value  for  general  culture. 

The  Sweet  Seville  and  St.  Michael's,  though  not  as  dis- 
tinctly marked  as  the  foregoing,  are  distinguishable  by 
the  appearance  of  the  fruit ;  the  former  is  one  of  the 
most  delicious  for  home  use,  though  too  small  for  profit- 
able shipment ;  the  latter  is  prolific  and  a  good  average 
fruit. 

Acis,  Arcadia,  Beach's  No.  3,  Creole,  Dummit,  Dixon, 
Excelsior,  Homosassa,  Higgins,  Magnum  Bonum, 
NoNPARiEL,  Osceola,  Old  Vini,  Peerless,  Tahiti, 
Spratts,  Harmon  and  Parson  Brown,  comprise  the  lead- 
ing varieties  of  the  common  Florida  orange ;  they  are 
mainly  native  varieties  recently  brought  to  public 
notice  by  the  Nomenclature  Committee  of  the  Florida 
Fruit  Growers'  Association,  together  with  a  few  of 
foreign     origin    long  grown  in   the  State.     Those    in 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  33 

SMALL  CAPS  ars  best  known  and  most  highly  esteemed. 
In  quality  they  rank  next  tn  the  Navel,  the  greatest 
objection  to  them  being  their  thorny  foliage.  All  the 
above  varieties  are  similar  in  appearance,  the  difference, 
if  any,  being  too  slight  to  distinguish  them  in  market 
and  of  little  importance  to  growei-s  generally.  This 
multiplication  of  varieties  differing  little  in  character 
would  seem  at  first  to  be  useless,  confusing  the  grower 
and  burdening  the  nuseryman;  in  fact,  however,  they 
serve  a  good  purpose,  placing  a  superior  variety  within 
the  reach  of  all  and  being  a  safeguard  against  the  num- 
berless inferior  sorts.  While,  therefore,  it  is  immaterial 
in  planting  which  of  these  be  selected,  it  is  highly  im- 
portant that  a  well-known,  accredited  variety  be  chosen. 

Botelha,  Dulcissima  and  other  recently  imported 
varieties  have  not  been  fruited  long  enough  in  the  State 
to  determine  their  qualities. 

The  Maudarin  or  Tangerine  Orange. — This  species 
of  all  the  citrus  tribe  is  the  most  delicate  and  aromatic, 
though  scarcely  as  luciousas  the  Sweet  Orange  of  Flori- 
da. On  account  of  its  beautiful  shape,  color  and  the 
ease  with  which  the  rind  and  segments  separate,  it  is 
highly  esteemed  as  a  dessert  fruit.  Comparatively  few  ^ 
are  shipped,  and  these  bring  an  enormously  high  price. 
The  effect  of  increased  production  consequent  upon  the  ^ 
large  number  being  planted  remains  to  be  seen.  The 
trees  are  hardy  and  prolific.  There  are  two  distinct 
classes.  The  first,  dwarfed,  willowed  leaved  and  yellow 
fruited ;  of  this  class  there  are  many  inferior  seedling 
varieties  which  have  occasioned  a  prejudice  against  it 
in  some  localities ;  the  trees  can  be  planted  much  closer 
than  the  Sweet  Orange.  The  second,  full  sized,  large 
leaved,  crimson  fruited  ;  much  prized  on  account  of  its 
color.  The  China  and  St.  Michael's  of  the  former  class 
and  the  Bijou  of  the  latter  are  superior  varieties. 


34  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

The  foliage  of  the  Satsuma  differs  from  either  of  the 
above;  the  fruit  resembles  the  Bijou  in  appearance, 
though  more  juicy  and  possessing  a  distinct  and  delicious 
flavor.  It  seems  to  stand  more  frost  than  the  other 
varieties  of  the  orange.  Though  of  recent  introduction, 
many  trees  have  been  planted  and  it  promises  to  be  a 
favorite. 

The  Bitter  Orange. — This  species  is  not  cultivated 
for  market  in  Florida.  It  is  largely  grown  in  Europe, 
where  the  fruit  is  preserved,  yielding  the  celebrated 
orange  marmalade.  The  rind  dried  forms  the  orange 
peel  of  commerce  ;  an  essential  oil  is  obtained  from  the 
leaves  and  fruit,  and  a  delicate  perfume  is  made  from 
the  flowers ;  both  fruit,  leaves  and  flowers  are  much 
used  in  medicine.  The  Sour  and  Bitter  Sweet  varieties 
are  found  wild  in  Florida  ;  they  are  valuable  fruits,  and 
a  few  trees  should  find  a  place  in  every  grove.  They 
are  an  ornamental  tree  and  the  plants  make  the  best 
stocks  on  which  to  propagate  the  Sweet  Orange. 

The  Sour  makes  a  fine  preserve  and  has  been  used 
to  some  extent  in  this  State  for  the  manufacture  of  mar- 
malade. Its  acid  juice  makes  a  refreshing  drink, 
especially  grateful  in  summer  when  lemons  are  scarce. 

The  Bitter  Sweet  is  a  good  substitute  for  sweet 
oranges  after  the  latter  have  been  gathered,  as,  like 
the  Sour,  it  retains  its  perfection  on  the  tree  through 
summer.  The  grain  of  the  pulp  is  tender  and  sweet,  and 
when  carefully  removed  from  the  bitter  inner  rind  and 
membranes,  the  better  varieties  are  very  agreeable  to 
the  taste.  There  is  a  local  market  for  the  fruit  in 
summer. 


CHAPTER    VI. 


SEASON    FOR    PLANTING. 

HE  BEST  TIME.— The  deciduous  fruit  trees 
of  more  northern  latitudes  are  entirely  dor- 
mant during  a  considerable  portion  of  the 
year,  at  which  time  they  can  be  safely  handled. 
Most  semi-tropical  fruit  trees,  however,  are  evergreen 
and  must  be  moved  when  growing,  still  there  are  seasons 
when  this  can  be  done  to  much  better  advantage  than  at 
other  times.  Orange  and  other  citrus  trees  should  be 
transplanted  in  winter  when,  though  their  foliage  is 
green,  they  are  not  actively  growing.  Some  seasons 
small  trees  can  be  successfully  transplanted  in  the  rainy 
season  of  summer,  but  it  is  better  to  defer  it  until  wintei*. 
They  can  be  safely  moved  from  the  time  they  cease 
growing  in  the  fall — usually  in  November — until  they 
show  signs  of  starting  in  spring.  January  is  the 
best  month;  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  where  it 
is  desired  to  defer  planting  until  danger  of  severe  cold 
is  over,  the  first  ten  days  of  February  will  do.  Decem- 
ber is  a  better  time  than  the  latter  part  of  February,  and 
November  is  far  preferable  to  March  or  April.  Owing 
to  the  danger  of  late  frosts  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
State*  some  have  recommended  planting  in  March  and 
April.  This  is  a  mistake,  as  during  these  months,  which 
are  usually  dry,  the  trees  are  full  of  sap  and  making  the 
most  vigorous  growth  of  the  year,  in  fact,  no  more  un- 
favorable time  could  be  selected  during  the  year  than 


36  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  OIV 

these  spring  months.  The  trees  generally  commence 
growing  in  February  and  should  never  be  dug  after  the 
fifteenth  of  this  mouth.  Many  trees  ai*e  lost  annually 
by  being  transplanted  too  late ;  dug  from  the  open  ground 
when  full  of  tender  growth,  perhaps  transported  some 
distance,  planted  in  the  warm  weather  of  a  southern 
spring,  they  must  suffer  severely  if  they  do  not  die. 
Even  if  dug  before  they  commence  growing  and  "  heeled 
in "  until  planted,  they  have  to  endure  the  heat  and 
drouth  incident  to  this  season  of  the  year  ;  while  if 
planted  earlier,  new  roots  would  have  formed,  and  the 
trees  been  ready  to  begin  their  spring  growth  at  this 
season. 

Late  Planting. — If  late  planting  is  unavoidable,  the 
trees  should  be  dug  before  they  commence  growing  and 
"  heeled  in  "  in  a  building  for  the  purpose,  or  other 
suitable  place  where  temperature,  light  and  moisture 
can  be  controlled,  and  here  kept  dormant  until  the 
time  when  they  are  to  be  planted.  In  the  "  heeling-in 
house,"  if  jjroperly  made,  low  temperature  and  absence 
of  light  prevents  the  trees  from  putting  on  new  growth, 
while  abundant  moisture  keeps  them  in  perfect  condi- 
tion. If  planted  as  soon  a^  dug,  the  tree  must  sustain 
itself  until  new  rootlets  form,  and  if  late  in  season,  has 
heated  atmosphere  and  dry  ground  to  contend  against. 
If  heeled  in  properly,  the  severed  roots  heal  and  new 
feeders  are  formed  while  the  foliage  is  not  drawing  upon 
the  vitality  of  tree,  the  plant  is  thus  prepared  to  absorb 
food  from  the  soil  and  begin  growing  as  soon  as  set  in 
the  ground. 


CHAPTER    VII. 


DISTANCE    APART. 


'IZE  OF  THE  TREES.— The  general  opinion 
has  been  heretofore,  that  sweet  seedlings  grow 
larger  than  budded  trees,  and  budded  trees  on 
sweet  stocks  than  those  on  sour ;  and  that  the 
distance  between  the  trees  in  grove  should  be  more  or 
less,  according  as  one  or  the  other  of  these  were  planted. 
This  conclusion  may  have  arisen  from  the  dwarf  habit 
of  some  of  the  varieties  propagated  by  budding,  or  from 
the  fact  that  seedling^  are  larger  when  they  reach  the 
bearing  age  than  the  budded  trees,  after  which  they 
grow  faster  than  the  latter.  Budded  trees  bear  younger 
and  smaller  than  seedlings,  and  their  energies  being  thus 
early  directed  to  making  fruit  rather  than  wood,  their  sub- 
sequent growth  is  much  slower  than  the  latter,  whatever 
may  be  the  size  they  ultimately  attain.  Some  of  the  largest 
trees  in  the  State  are  budded  on  sour  stocks,  and  it  is 
questionable  whether  there  is  any  considerable  differ- 
ence in  the  size  of  the  mature  trees.  However  this  may 
be,  it  is  of  no  great  consequence,  as  seedlings  are  being 
generally  discarded  by  more  progressive  growers,  and 
there  is  too  little  difference  if  any  between  the  size  at- 
tained by  trees  budded  on  sweet  and  those  budded  on 
sour  stocks  to  make  any  difference  in  the  distance  which 
should  separate  them  in  grove.  The  orange  under 
favorable  circumstances  grows  to  a  very  large  size.  The 
branches  of  some  isolated  trees  are  forty  feet  or  even 


38  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

more  in  diameter.  In  general  planting,  they  are  set  from 
twenty  to  thirty  feet  apart,  according  to  the  location  or 
the  fancy  of  the  grower. 

lu  the  Northern  Part  of  the  State. — In  the  ex- 
treme north,  where  the  trees  suffer  from  cold  in  winter, 
they  should  be  set  as  close  as  20x20  feet ;  at  this  dis- 
tance the  foliage  soon  forms  an  efl&cient  protection  from 
frost. 

On  Low  Lands. — On  low  lands,  where  the  soil  is  in- 
frequently cultivated  and  seldom  stirred,  it  is  impor- 
tant that  the  surface  be  shaded  as  much  as  possible. 
The  nearer  together  the  trees  are  the  sooner  they  will 
accomplish  this  object.  Twenty  by  twenty  feet  is  not  too 
close,  especially  as  trees  on  low  land  do  not  attain  as 
large  size  or  great  age  as  on  higher  land. 

On  High  Lands. — On  high  lands  in  the  central  and 
southern  portion  of  the  orange  growing  region,  varieties, 
not  dwarfish  in  tendency,  should  be  allowed  more  room. 
Twenty-five  by  twenty-five  feet  is  not  too  great  a  dis- 
tance where  the  trees  are  to  be  planted  in  squares,  and 
even  where  planted  30x30  feet  they  will  ultimately 
occupy  the  space.  A  very  good  plan  is  to  lay  off  the 
rows  fifteen  feet  apart  each  way,  and  to  set  a  tree  at  each 
alternate  intersection  of  the  rows  as  laid  off.  This  leaves 
the  rows  fifteen  feet  apart,  the  trees  thirty  feet  apart  in 
the  row  and  twenty-one  feet  from  each  other  in  squares 
running  diagonally  across  the  rows.  This  gives  about 
one  hundred  trees  to  the  acre,  and  should  they  ever  be- 
come crowded,  by  removing  every  other  row,  they  will  be 
left  thirty  feet  apart  in  regular  squares.  Some  varieties 
do  not  grow  as  large  as  others ;  those  less  vigorous  in 
growth  or  of  small  size  can  be  set  from  twenty  to  thirty 
feet  apart  as  the  case  may  be.  Where  dwarf  trees  or 
other  fruits  are  planted  between  the  rows,  the  standard 
trees  should  be  at  least  30x30  feet  apart     The  willow- 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  39 

leaved  varieties  of  the  Mandarin  do  not  grow  as  large 
as  other  varieties  of  the  orange,  and  when  planted  by 
themselves,  can  be  set  as  close  as  15x15  feet. 

Dwarf  Trees. — If  the  efforts  now  being  made  to  dwarf 
the  orange  prove  permanently  successful,  and  the  experi- 
ments already  made  certainly  promise  well,  the  dwarf  trees 
can  be  planted  betwen  the  standard  trees  in  the  grove, 
or  will  form  a  grove  in  miniature  if  planted  by  them- 
selves. As  they  require  so  little  room,  gardens  and  other 
areas  too  limited  for  standard  trees  can  be  thus  utilized 
for  orange  culture.  For  an  account  of  the  experiments 
which  have  been  made  in  this  direction  see  article  on 
"  Dwarfing  the  sweet  orange "  in  the  appendix  to  this 
volume. 

How  to  Ascertain  the  Number  on  an  Acre. — 
The  following  rules  are  given  for  ascertaining  the 
number  of  trees  or  plants  that  can  be  set  on  an  acre: 

First — When  they  are  set  in  the  common  order,  that 
is,  in  the  form  of  squares  or  rectangles. 

Rule. — Multiply  the  distance  in  feet  the  rows  are  apart 
by  the  distance  apart  in  the  row,  and  divide  43,560 — the 
number  of  square  feet  in  an  acre — by  the  product. 

Example  :  How  many  trees,  twenty  feet  apart  each 
way,  can  be  set  upon  an  acre  ? 

Solution:  Twenty  multiplied  by  twenty  equals  400, 
or  the  number  of  square  feet  each  tree  will  occupy ; 
43,560  divided  by  400  equals  108.9,  or  the  number  of 
trees. 

Second — When  set  in  the  quincunx  order,  as  in  the 

diagram : 

^  B  C 

E 

A  D 

Rule. — Multiply  the  distance  apart  in  feet  in  the  row 


40  MAXVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

{from  A  to  B)  by  the  distance  apart  and  diagonally 
{from  A  to  E)  ;  multiply  the  product  so  obtained  by 
.866,  and  divide  43,560  by  the  product  last  obtained. 

Example  :  How  many  trees,  twenty  feet  apart  each 
way,  can  be  set  in  the  quincunx  order  on  an  acre  ? 

Solution  :  Twenty  multiplied  by  twenty  and  the  pro- 
duct multiplied  by  .866  equals  346.4,  or  the  number  of 
square  feet  each  tree  will  occupy ;  43,530  divided  by 
346.4  equals  nearly  123,  or  the  number  of  trees. 

Note  I. — Half  the  distance  from  A  to  D  may  be 
found  by  multiplying  the  distance  from  A  to  E  by  .866. 

Note  II. — The  tree  at  E  should  be  in  the  center  of  the 
rectangle  formed  by  those  at  A,  B,  C  and  D. 


CHAPTER    VIIL 


PLANTING, 


^|»  ULL  directions  for  preparing  the  soil  for  a 
grove  appears  in  a  former  chapter.     The  fol- 
lowing suggestions  on  planting  are  given  un- 
der the  supposition  that  these  have  been  com- 
plied with. 

Handling  the  Trees. — As  soon  as  the  trees  are  dug 
or  received  from  the  nursery  they  should  be  "heeled  in" 
in  a  cool,  damp,  shady  place,  or  in  other  words,  they 
should  be  buried  in  a  slanting  position  and  covered  with 
eai-th  up  to  their  lower  branches.  In  winter  they  can 
be  kept  safely  in  this  manner  for  weeks  and  can  be  set 
out  at  leisure.  It  is  very  important  to  the  welfare  of  the 
trees  that  they  be  kept  from  sun  and  wind,  and  that  the 
roots  be  kept  damp  from  the  time  they  are  dug  in  the 
nursery  until  they  are  planted  in  grove.  When  the 
trees  are  to  be  at  all  exposed  before  or  during  planting 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  protect  the  roots  by  dipping  them  as 
soon  as  pruned  in  a  thin  mud  made  of  rich  soil.  Before 
planting,  the  broken  roots  should  be  removed  with  a 
sharp  knife  and  the  branches  cut  back  fully  half  their 
length.  This  rule  applies  to  young  budded  trees  with 
regularly  formed  tops.  Other  trees  should  have  their 
top  cut  back  in  about  the  same  proportion.  In  dealing 
with  trees  that  have  not  been  systematically  pruned,  or 
which  have  irregular  shaped  tops  the  grower  will  have 
to  use  his  judgment,  as  no  definite   rule  can  be  given 


42  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

for  such  cases.  The  main  stem  of  the  tree  should  never  be 
severed  below  the  last  season's  growth  as  there  is  noth' 
ing  gained  by  it  and  the  tree  will  require  some  time  to 
recover  from  the  shock.  The  length  of  the  tap  root  iS' 
a  matter  of  no  great  consequence;  from  eight  to  twelve 
inches  upon  trees  two  to  four  years  old  is  sufficient  for 
all  practical  purposes.  A  new  tap  root,  or  rather  roots 
will  soon  be  formed  if  the  tree  needs  them  in  its  new 
position.  When  possible  the  "  cutting  back  "  or  prun- 
ing should  be  done  as  soon  as  the  trees  are  dug  from 
the  nursery,  as  the  juices  are  constantly  evaporated 
through  the  foliage  so  long  as  it  remains  upon  the  tree. 
Preliminaries. — After  the  land  has  been  properly 
staked  off  in  the  form  desired,  repeated  sighting  can  be 
avoided  and  the  trees  be  accurately  set  by  the  aid  of  the 
following  simple  device.  Take  a  board  long  enough  to 
reach  across  the  place  to  be  prepared  for  the  tree,  cut  a 
notch  in  one  side  opposite  the  center,  and  two  holes 
through  it,  one  at  either  end,  as  in  the  following  illustra- 
tion  : 


0^  A  ^0 


A  represents  the  notch  in  the  side  and  B  B  the  holes 
through  the  ends.  Place  the  board  on  the  ground  with 
the  notch  (A)  against  the  stake  which  marks  the  place 
for  the  tree,  and  drive  two  short  stakes  or  pegs  through 
the  holes  (B  B)  in  the  ends  of  the  board.  The  board  can 
now  be  removed  and  the  soil  be  prepared  for  the  recep- 
tion of  the  tree.  When  the  tree  is  placed  in  position  and 
the  board  put  over  the  pegs  again,  the  collar  of  the  tree 
can  be  adjusted  to  fit  the  notch,  thus  bringing  the  tree 
into  exactly  the  same  position  occupied  by  the  stake 
which  marked  the  place  for  it.  It  pays  to  take  pains  in 
laying  off  the  ground  to  have  each  tree  in  its  proper 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  43 

place.  It  is  but  little  more  trouble  to  have  the  rows 
straight  and  they  are  much  easier  cultivated  and  will 
always  be  a  source  of  satisfaction. 

Holes  for  the  trees  are  not  necessary,  and  when  dug 
to  sweeten  and  pulverize  the  soil  where  the  general  sur- 
face has  not  been  properly  prepared,  they  should  be 
filled  in  long  enough  before  the  trees  are  planted  to 
allow  the  earth  that  has  been  removed  to  become  moist- 
ened through  again.  The  places  where  the  trees  are  to 
be  set,  should  be  thoroughly  pulverized  with  the  spade 
and  hoe,  and  rounded  up  a  little  above  the  general  level. 
Setting  Out  the  Trees.-When  ready  for  planting,  the 
tree  should  be  placed  in  position,  and  holes  hollowed 
out  for  the  tap  and  lower  lateral  roots  deep  enough  to 
allow  the  upper  layer  of  lateral  roots  to  spread  out  on 
the  surface.  Moist  earth  should  be  pressed  carefully 
and  firmly  about  the  roots  with  the  hand,  giving  them 
as  nearly  as  possible  their  former  positions,  especially 
the  rootlets  and  fibres.  Cover  with  more  earth  than  it 
is  intended  shall  remain,  taking  care  not  to  pile  it  up 
around  the  collar.  This  extra  earth  serves  to  keep  the 
roots  moist  until  new  rootlets  are  formed;  when  the 
tree  commences  growing  it  can  be  drawn  back  from  the 
roots.  The  entire  mound  thus  formed  should  be  covered 
with  a  mulching  of  straw,  grass  or  litter,  and  the  work 
is  finished.  This  mulch  should  not  be  disturbed  until 
the  tree  begins  to  grow,  but  if  weeds  or  grass  grow 
through  it  they  should  be  removed. 

Watering.— Damp  weather  is,  of  course,  preferable. 
Still,  the  trees  can  be  set  with  safety  any  time  during  the 
transplanting  season,  at  which  time  the  trees  are  dor- 
mant and  the  weather  cool.  A  moist  soil  is  a  great  ad- 
vantage, as  it  obviates  the  necessity  of  immediately  or 
subsequently  using    water.      The  use  of   water   while 


44  MAN  VILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

planting  hinders  the  operation  ;  but  if  the  ground  be 
dry  it  should  be  plentifully  applied  when  the  work  is 
finished.  Frequent  watering  after  the  trees  have  beens 
set,  excej^t  in  cases  of  severe  drouth,  is  to  be  depreca- 
ted; it  makes  considerable  unnecessary  labor,  and  is  of 
questionable  advantage  to  the  tree.  It  produces  a 
growth  dependent  upon  this  water  supply,  renders  the 
trees  more  sensitive  to  extreme  heat,  and  when  once  be- 
gun they  suffer  if  it  is  not  kept  up.  If  very  dry 
"Weather  renders  watering  necessary,  the  ground  should 
be  thoroughly  saturated,  and  a&  long  intervals  as  possi- 
ble allowed  to  intervene  between  the  applications. 

Deep  Planting. — Although  a  great  deal  has  been 
8aid  and  written  against  deep  planting,  it  is  still  the  cause 
of  much  loss  and  failure  in  orange  culture.  It  is  a  pro- 
lific source  of  disease  and  if  the  tree  survives  there  is 
little  prospect  of  its  ever  becoming  vigorous.  In  its 
normal  condition  the  large  brace  roots  of  the  orange  tree 
protrude  above  the  ground  at  the  collar  and  should  still 
be  exposed  when  the  tree  becomes  established  in  its  new 
position  after  being  transplanted.  The  trees  will  settle 
considerable  after  being  planted,  and  should  therefore 
be  set  several  inches  above  the  surface ;  even  higher  on 
low  land,  where  it  is  best  to  plant  them  on  beds  thrown 
up  for  the  purpose.  Trees  suffering  from  being  set  too 
deep  should  be  raised  at  once. 

Large  Trees. — In  transplanting  large  trees  there  is 
much  less  risk  if  they  are  not  pruned  some  time  before 
their  removal.  This  is  done  for  the  same  reason  that  small 
trees  are  transplanted,  r.  e.,  to  produce  a  growth  of  fibrous  or 
feeding  roots.  They  should  always  be  moved  in  winter 
and  the  proper  time  for  pruning  the  roots  would  be  the 
previous  spring  or  summer.  The  trees  are  not  shocked 
so  much,  if  one  side  be  taken  at  a  time.  Sufficient  time 
should  intervene  between  the  operations  on  the  different 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  45 

sides,  and  between  pruning  and  planting  to  allow  the 
fibrous  roots  to  perfect  their  growth.  The  most  conven- 
ient instrument  is  a  sharp  spade.  A  trench  should  first 
be  dug  around  the  tree  at  a  distance  ranging  according 
to  its  size  age  and  other  conditions,  and  deep  enough  to 
bare  the  lateral  roots;  then  with  a  quick  stroke  the 
roots  are  severed  at  both  sides  of  the  trench  to  the  depth 
of  the  spade,  the  pieces  of  roots  thus  detached  are  re- 
moved, the  trench  filled  in  and  the  work  is  done.  The 
removal  of  a  portion  of  the  severed  roots  gives  the  new 
rootlets  a  better  chance  to  grow  than  if  the  laterals  were 
simply  cut  and  allowed  to  remain  in  their  former  posi- 
tion. Care  should  be  taken  in  moving  trees  whose  roots 
have  been  pruned  that  the  new,  fibrous  roots  are  not  in- 
jured, on  which  account  digging  should  be  commenced 
at  some  distance  from  the  line  of  pruning.  In  other 
particulars  large  trees  require  the  same  treatment  recom- 
mended above  for  smaller  trees. 


CHAPTER    IX. 


culture, 


CULTIVATION. 

HERE  is  more  difference  of  opinion  regard- 
ing cultivation  than  perhaps  any  one  point 
in  orange  growing.  Deep  culture,  shallow 
culture,  clean  culture,  cropping,  constant 
nfrequent  culture,  partial  culture,  sum- 
mer shading  by  a  green  crop,  and  mulching  a  part 
or  the  entire  surface,  are  variously  advocated  with  ap- 
parent reason,  as  each  is  applicable  under  some  condi- 
tions. Some  of  these  methods  produce  good  results  only 
in  isolated  or  exceptional  instances,  others  succeed  on 
certain  classes  of  soil,  while  others  have  a  general  appli- 
cation. More  intelligent  growers  follow  a  uniform  sys- 
tem modified  to  suit  the  circumstances  of  soil,  loca- 
tion, etc. 

Deep  CultlU'e. — Deep  culture  does  not  seem  to  be 
injurious  on  some  high,  light  soils,  and  in  some  places 
where  a  light,  poor  top  soil  is  underlaid  with  a  rich  sub- 
soil several  feet  below  the  surface  ;  in  fact  the  trees  seem 
to  do  better  when  cultivated  deeply.  Where  deep 
plowing  is  to  be  practiced  it  should  be  commenced  when 
the  trees  are  small  and  followed  uninterruptedly  to  keep 
the  soil  aei-ated  and  porous  above  the  roots,  and  to  pre- 
vent the  latter  forming  within  reach  of  the  plow  share. 
It  will  not  do  to  alternate  between  deep  and  shallow 
culture,  nor  to  plow  up  the  roots  after  they  have  become 
established  near  the  surface. 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  47 

Shallow  Culture. — Shallow  culture  is  generally  the 
best  method,  as  there  are  few  soils  where  deep  culture  is 
not  injurious,  and  fewer  still  where  it  is  beneficial.  The 
orange  is  a  surface  feeder,  and  the  soils  of  Florida  are 
not  deep  and  as  a  general  thing  do  not  harden  or  bake. 
There  is  no  reason  therefore  for  cultivating  deeply,  fre- 
quent shallow  stirrings  of  the  surface  being  all  that  is 
necessary  to  keep  the  soil  mellow  and  the  trees  growing. 

Infrequent  or  Partial  Culture. — This  method  is 
advocated  and  practiced  by  some  who  recognize  the 
benefits  of  shading  the  ground  in  summer,  or  observe 
that  some  low  lauds  require  very  little  stirring.  Ac- 
cording to  this  plan,  the  soil  is  stirred  but  few  times  dur^ 
iug  the  year,  generally  in  the  spring  and  fall,  or  the 
area  work  is  confined  to  a  limited  space  about  each 
tree.  Upon  some  poor  soils  producing  little  but  coarse 
weeds,  which  have  to  some  extent  the  efiect  of  a  green 
crop,  and  where  the  spring  and  fall  working  has  been 
very  thorough,  this  has  succeeded  passibly  well  among 
large  trees,  but  it  will  not  do  among  small  trees.  As  a 
rule,  however,  except  on  low  lands,  this  is  a  pernicious 
practice.  When  covered  with  a  green  crop  or  mulched, 
the  surface  becomes  porous  and  friable,  which  conduces 
to  the  health  and  growth  of  the  trees  ;  a  natural  grow' th 
of  weeds  and  grass  does  not  answer  the  same  purjjose, 
but  on  the  contrary  renders  the  soil  compact  and  firm, 
and  absorbs  the  moisture  and  nutriment  which  would 
otherwise  nourish  the  trees.  It  is  a  poor  policy  to  re- 
duce the  cost  of  cultivation  to  a  minimum  from  motives 
of  economy,  thereby  loosing  the  gi'ow' th  the  trees  would 
otherwise  have  made  even  if  they  suffer  no  apparent  in- 
jury. The  orange  will  stand  much  abuse,  but  the  best 
results  can  only  be  protluced  by  projier  and  thorough 
cultivation. 


48  MAXVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

The  Suspension  of  Cultivation  Late  in  Summer 

— to  check  the  growth  of  the  trees  and  allow  them  to 
''harden  up"  before  cold  weather,  is  open  to  the  same 
objections  as  the  foregoing.  If  allowed  to  stand  in 
grass  for  so  long  a  time  the  vitality  of  the  tree  is  im- 
paired, and  though  active  growth  may  be  checked,  the 
wood  is  not  matured  as  perfectly  as  it  would  be  if  the 
trees  were  kej^t  in  full  vigor  ;  in  this  condition  they  are 
more  liable  to  injury  from  frost  or  disease.  On  rich 
soils,  a  heavy  sod  is  formed  by  spring  which  is  trouble- 
some and  difficult  to  break  without  injuring  the  roots  of 
the  trees.  The  spring  growth  of  the  trees,  which  should 
be  the  most  vigoi'ous  during  the  year,  is  thus  interfered 
with,  and  the  trees  rendered  more  liable  to  grow  late  in 
the  fall.  If  early  culture  has  been  indifferent,  or  late 
culture  is  unusually  thorough,  this  sudden  change  in 
the  method  of  treatment  may  force  the  sap  into  the 
trees,  which  at  this  time  of  year  would  prove  disastrous 
to  them  in  case  of  severe  frost.  If  properly  cultivated 
through  the  season  the  trees  will  put  on  and  mature  the 
several  growths  which  they  should  make  through  the 
summer,  each  in  its  proper  time.  Sufficient  stirring  in 
the  fall  to  keep  down  the  herbage,  which  does  not  grow 
very  rapidly  at  this  season,  will  not  prevent  the  trees 
from  ceasing  active  growth  as  cool  weather  approaches, 
which  is  their  natural  habit.  Warm  spells  in  winter 
often  cause  new  growth  to  start  out  on  the  trees.  Sus- 
pension of  culture  makes  no  difference  in  this  particular, 
and  the  most  thrifty  trees  will  sustain  the  least  injury. 
In  the  more  northern  counties  it  is  perhaps  necessary  to 
resort  to  some  measure  to  check  the  circulation  of  sap 
in  winter.  Where  this  is  necessary,  seeding  the  land  in 
oats  is  a  more  efficient  and  less  objectionable  method  of 
accomplishing  this  result  than  allowing  the  natural 
growth  to  take  the  ground.     As  a  general  rule  it  is  bet- 


ON  ORANGE  CULTURE.  49 

ter  to  keep  the  land  free  from  grass  and  weeds  the  year 
round. 

Summer  Sliadiiig-  by  a  Green  Crop. — Clean,  con- 
stant culture  in  summer  is  not  advisable.  When  stir- 
red at  this  season,  in  dry  weather,  the  powei-ful  niid-cUiv 
sun  renders  the  earth  as  hot  and  dry  as  an  ash  heap  ;  it 
often  remains  in  this  condition  through  the  night,  and  is 
still  hot  a  few  inches  below  the  surface  in  the  morning. 
This  parches  the  roots  of  the  trees  and  prevents  their 
growth.  Summer  shading  by  a  green  crop  is  a  much 
better  plan.  Pease  or  other  similar  crops  planted  late 
in  spring  will  cover  the  ground  through  the  summer, 
forming  a  complete  protection  from  the  rays  of  the  sun. 
They  should  be  planted  in  hills  or  drills  and  cultivated 
until  the  vines  take  the  ground,  when  they  will  form  a 
•good  mulch,  keeping  the  soil  cool  and  mellow  and  pre- 
venting other  growth.  They  draw  little  from  the  soil, 
and  if  desired,  the  vines  can  be  used  for  fertilizing  or 
mulching  the  trees  and  a  second  crop  raised  for  seed. 

Cropping. — When  the  trees  are  small  any  crop  can 
be  grown  between  the  rows,  which  does  not  require  til- 
lage, without  interfering  with  the  proper  cultivation  of 
the  trees.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  plant  too  near 
the  trees  and  to  contract  the  area — planted  as  the  roots 
of  the  tree  extend.  A  summer  crop  of  melons  or  other 
vines  will  shade  the  surface  as  recommended  above. 
Garden  vegetables  are  usually  raised  for  profit  in  fall 
and  spring ;  when  this  is  done  pease  or  other  crops  can  be 
grown  for  summer  shade,  the  same  as  when  clean  cul- 
ture is  followed  at  other  seasons.  While  cropping  is  ad- 
raissable,  it  is  far  better  to  cultivate  solely  with  regard 
to  the  trees';  any  other  crop  is  to  a  greater  or  less  ex- 
tent a  hindrance  to  this.  * 

Other  Fruits. — Other  fruits  adapted  to  the  climate, 
which  are  dwarf  in  their  habit  or  short  lived,  can  be 


'n 


50  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

planted  between  the  rows,  as  it  will  be  some  years  before 
the  orange  trees  occuiDy  the  same  space.  Limes,  and 
other  dwarf  species  of  the  citrus,  guavas,  pine-apples, 
bananas,  grapes  (excepting  the  scuppernong  family), 
peaches,  etc.,  can  thus  be  grown  where  the  climate  and 
soil  is  adapted  to  their  several  requirements. 

Best  Methods  on  High  Laud. — The  cultivation  of 
high  lands  and  all  light,  dry  soils  should  be  continued  from 
the  time  the  grass  and  weeds  start  in  spring  until  vegeta- 
tion dies  in  the  fall,  say  from  February  until  October. 
The  surface  should  receive  frequent  shallow  stirrings,  the 
object  being  as  much  to  keep  the  soil  loose  and  porous 
as  to  subdue  the  weeds  and  grass.  This  can  be  done 
with  either  sweep,  horse  hoe,  or  cultivator.  These  im- 
plements are  now  constructed  to  run  very  shallow  with 
special  reference  to  orange  culture  and  so  adjusted  that 
the  depth  can  be  regulated  at  will.  When  possible 
some  green  crop  should  shade  the  ground  in  midsum- 
mer as  described  above.  Most  soils  left  in  good  condi- 
tion in  October  will  require  no  further  working  until 
spring.  In  the  southern  pait  of  the  State  and  on  some 
rich  lands  there  is  considerable  growth  during  winter; 
where  this  is  the  case  the  surface  should  be  cultivated 
lightly,  often  enough  to  keep  down  the  grass.  If  it  is 
necessary  to  commence  cultivation  in  spring  by  turning 
over  the  surface  with  the  plow,  it  should  be  done  as 
lightly  as  possible,  running  shallow  and  taking  pains 
where  there  is  danger  of  disturbing  the  roots. 

Best  Methods  on  Low  Lands. — Low  land  culture 
should  be  very  different  from  high  land  culture  ;  thus 
far  this  chapter  applies  especially  to  the  latter,  if  what 
follows  seems  contradictory,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  methods  admirably  adapted  to  high  or  light,  dry 
soils  are  absolutely  injurious  on  low  land.  The  lateral 
roots  of  the  orange  tree,  naturally  near  the  surface  on  all 


^"        UBRA^V, 


M^oa  of  thi^st^s< 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  51 

soils  on  low  lands,  are  necessarily  so  owing  to  the  prox- 
imity of  water  below.  It  would  be  very  difficult  to  cul- 
tivate as  required  on  a  light,  dry  soil  without  injuring 
or  preventing  the  formation  of  surface  roots.  Low  soils 
are  often  soaked  from  rainfall  at  the  season  when  grass 
and  weeds  gi'ow  fastest ;  if  stirred  in  this  condition  the 
grass  is  not  killed,  and  the  hot  sun  injures  the  soil  as 
well  as  the  roots  of  the  trees.  The  best  method  on  such 
soil  cannot  be  better  indicated  than  by  the  following 
quotations  from  two  of  the  most  successful  growers  on 
this  class  of  land.  Mr.  J.  T.  Tenney,  of  Federal  Point, 
says  :  "  When  first  set,  small  trees  may  be  worked  with 
a  plow,  being  careful  not  to  plow  too  near,  but  when  the 
trees  attain  any  considerable  size,  the  plow  or  even  the 
cultivator  should  be  discarded  and  the  grove  cultivated 
with  the  hoe  alone.  Be  careful  not  to  cultivate  your 
trees  during  the  midsummer  months,  but  let  grass  and 
weeds  grow  as  much  as  they  will,  for  the  reason  that  the 
roots  being  near  the  surface,  the  disturbance  of  the  soil 
about  them  brings  the  heated  earth  to  the  roots  protluc- 
ing  death  to  them  and  '  die-back  '  to  the  tree.  Some 
say :  '  Why  not  use  the  plow  instead  of  the  hoe  if  it  be 
run  shallow? '  Because  the  hoe  even  will  reach  some  of 
the  roots,  and  where  it  does  so  it  cuts  them  off  clean 
while  the  plow  would  simply  tear  them  up  and  produce 
disease  and  decay  clear  to  the  body  of  the  tree."  Mr. 
E.  H.  Hart,  of  the  same  place,  says  :  "  To  insure  suc- 
cess, the  trees  must  be  planted  on  raised  beds  with  water 
furrows  between,  and  the  ground  scraped  over  lightly 
but  once  or  twice  in  the  season.  Under  deep  or  fre- 
quent culture  the  trees  would  become  diseased  and 
perish  from  *  die-back.' "  Low  lands  are  generally 
strong  and  the  trees  keep  growing  even  if  the  ground 
becomes  foul,  but  it  would  be  much  better  to  keep  the 
growth  down  if  it  could  be  done  without  stirring  or  ex- 


•*^:?;.:>'^. 


52  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

posing  the  soil  and  roots  to  the  sun.     This  result  is  ac- 
complished by  mulching  the  trees. 

Muldlillg. — As  mulching  is  applicable  to  high  as 
well  as  low  land,  and  is  a  subject  of  considerable  impor- 
tance, its  consideration  is  reserved  for  another  chapter. 


CHAPTER    X 


MULCHING. 

TS  ADVANTAGES.— Pulverizing  the  sur- 
face by  frequent  stirring,  or  shading  the 
ground  with  a  green  crop,  is,  in  effect,  mulch- 
ing ;  and  an  orange  grove  can  be  successfully 
produced  by  these  methods  alone.  But  mulching,  as 
commonly  understood,  that  is  to  say,  the  covering  of  the 
surface  with  dead  vegetation,  is  too  important  an  auxil- 
iary to  be  ignored.  It  is  the  natural  method;  the  an- 
nual falling  and  decay  upon  the  surface  of  leaves,  grass, 
and  other  vegetable  products,  is  nature's  way  of  shading, 
protecting  and  enriching  the  soil.  Mulching  keeps  the 
soil  moist  and  mellow,  shades  the  ground  from  the  sun, 
and  preserves  an  even  temperature,  which  are  the  con- 
ditions required  to  produce  a  vigorous  and  healthy 
growth  of  the  trees ;  and  at  the  same  time  it  obviates 
the  necessity  of  culture,  and  supplies  all  the  fertilizers 
needed  on  the  space  it  covers.  Its  value  as  a  means  of 
culture  is  being  more  and  more  appreciated  by  orchard- 
ists  throughout  the  country.  Some  theoretical  objec- 
tions have  been  urged  against  its  application  in  orange 
culture,  but  the  extensive  experiments  of  the  last  few 
years  have,  when  properly  conducted,  pronounced  in  its 
favor.  Mulching  undoubtedly  benefits  the  trees,  and 
its  practicability,  in  any  particular  location,  depends 
only  upon  the  availability  of  the  material  and  the  ex- 
pense of  its  application. 


54  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

Its  Application. — Dry  grass,  weeds,  straw,  pine 
needles,  wire  grass,  marsh  grass,  the  undergrowth  of  the 
pine  woods,  bagasse,  and  other  like  litter  are  used  for 
mulching.  Those  that  do  not  decay  too  quickly,  and 
that  make  the  best  fertilizers  when  decayed,  are  most 
desirable.  Rotten  bark,  rotten  wood,  and  similar  sub- 
stances, which  will  soon  decay  and  help  to  enrich  the 
soil,  can  be  added  to  the  mulch  when  the  latter  is  to  be 
applied  constantly,  in  which  case,  as  the  mulching  is  not 
to  be  removed,  they  will  not  interfere  with  cultivation. 
They  should  be  placed  on  the  outer  edge  of  the  mulch, 
or  at  some  distance  from  the  tree,  as  they  are  liable  to 
harbor  wood-lice  or  other  insects,  which  would  do  dam- 
age if  these  substances  came  in  contact  with  the  tree. 
The  depth  of  the  mulch  required,  depends  on  the  char- 
acter of  the  soil;  it  should  be  thick  enough  to  keep 
down  herbage  of  all  kinds.  From  three  to  five  inches 
is  usually  sufficient  for  this  purpose.  It  should  be 
spread  when  the  ground  is  moist — winter  being  the  most 
favorable  season,  though  it  will  do  no  harm  if  applied 
at  any  time.  An  uncovered  space  of  several  inches,  and 
if  the  trees  are  large,  of  several  feet,  should  be  left 
around  the  stem  of  the  tree  to  admit  air  and  light  to  the 
collar.  As  a  general  rule,  the  more  space  covered  with 
mulch  the  better.  Where  the  trees  are  small,  however, 
it  is  seldom  practicable  to  cover  more  than  a  limited 
area  around  each  tree ;  where  this  is  done  it  should  ex- 
tend a  little  beyond  the  extremities  of  the  roots.  Where 
a  portion  of  the  surface  is  mulched,  the  remainder 
should  be  cultivated  in  the  usual  manner  as  recom- 
mended in  the  last  chapter.  Larger  trees  shade  a  por- 
tion of  the  ground  themselves,  the  undergrowth  is 
more  easily  subdued,  and  the  same  amount  of  mate- 
rial will  cover  a  much  larger  area.  In  bearing  groves, 
where  it  is  difficult  to  apply  fertilizers  or  cultivate  in 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  55 

the  ordinary  way  without  disturbing  the  roots,  mulching 
obviates  the  necessity  of  this,  and  aiFords  the  trees  just 
such  a  fertilizer  as  they  need  at  this  age.  In  some 
groves  of  this  character  the  entire  surface  has  been 
mulched  with  great  advantage.  The  same  is  true  of 
groves  which  have  been  budded  upon  wild  trees,  where 
the  roots  are  already  established  near  the  surface. 

Mulching  is  adapted  to  all  soils,  but  is  especially 
valuable  upon  high,  poor  land,  where  it  not  only  acts  as 
a  fertilizer,  but  also  protects  from  sun  and  drouth ;  it  is 
even  more  so  on  low,  heavy  land,  where  the  roots,  which 
cannot  penetrate  deeply,  are  protected  near  the  surface. 
Speaking  of  methods  of  low  land  culture,  E.  H.  Hart 
says :  "  For  heavy  lands,  a  good  mode  of  treatment  is 
to  mulch  the  rows  lengthwise  for  a  width  of  six  feet,  and 
in  May  or  June  plant  the  middles  with  cow  peas,  which 
should  be  kept  clean  until  they  cover  the  ground." 

Objections  Cou.sidered. — Those  who  oppose  mulch- 
ing, claim  that  it  is  expensive,  draws  the  roots  to  the 
surface  and  renders  small  trees  more  liable  to  be  killed 
by  cold.  Where  there  is  abundant  material  at  hand,  as 
there  is  in  most  places  in  F'lorida,  it  costs  less  to  mulch 
than  to  cultivate  and  fertilize  the  same  space  in  the  or- 
dinary way.  Mulching  does  not  attract  the  roots  from 
their  natural  position,  but  rather  protects  and  nourishes 
them  near  the  surface  where  they  belong.  Mulching 
will  not  render  trees  of  any  considerable  size  more  liable 
to  injury  from  cold,  and  does  not  seem  to  make  any 
difference  even  where  the  trees  are  small.  If  this  should 
be  the  case  in  the  extreme  north,  it  can  easily  be 
avoided  by  raking  away  the  mulch  during  the  cold 
months.  The  following  is  from  the  pen  of  an  experienced 
grower : 

"  It  has  been  urged  that  mulching  makes  an  orange 
tree  tender  and  more  liable  to  be  killed  by  a  freeze. 


56  MAXVILLES  TREATISE  ON 

"  Believing  a  statement  of  this  kind,  I  was  kept  from 
mulching  for  nearly  three  years.  Then  I  only  began  by 
a  trial  on  a  few  trees  at  first.  I  am  satisfied  by  careful 
experiment  and  observation  that  no  harm  can  come  to 
trees  on  that  account  if  properly  applied.  Old  trees  and 
young  trees,  trees  just  set  out  and  trees  beai'ing  500 
oranges  each,  have  alike  been  benefited.  Trees  that 
were  mulched  during  la.st  winter  came  out  of  the  freeze 
much  better  than  those  that  were  without  mulching. 
And  now  during  the  present  dry  weather,  whilst  other 
trees  are  becoming  yellow  and  curling  the  leaf  at  mid- 
day, the  mulched  trees  retain  a  dark  green  and  healthy 
color,  and  continue  growing  '  right  along.' 

"  The  objection  that  the  roots  come  to  the  surface  and 
prevent  after  culture  with  the  plow  or  cultivator  in  con- 
sequence of  mulching  is  of  little  force.  I  do  not  think 
trees  should  be  plowed  or  cultivated  where  mulch  has 
been  or  would  be  applied  with  advantage.  The  hand 
hoe  is  the  only  tool  I  would  allow  near  a  growing  orange 
tree,  and  besides  any  surface  manuring  in  like  manner 
causes  the  roots  to  develop  at  the  top  of  the  ground. 
The  few  feeding  roots  that  are  cut  ofi'  in  a  good  hoeing, 
no  more  injures  the  health  and  life  of  the  tree  than  a 
slight  pruning  of  its  leaves  and  branches." 


ij:i^zj:i^i2^jj^sa:i^^xj^  ^-!u^^L3Li^'i£f3^zs^.j^  "^ 


CHAPTER     XI, 


FERTILIZERS. 

UMUS. — "A  pulverulent  brown  substance 
formed  by  the  action  of  air  upon  solid  animal 
or  vegetable  matter,"  is  the  element  that  gives 
fertility  to  all  soils.  Some  scientists  have 
claimed  that  vegetable  growth  could  be  sustained  by 
artificial  means  upon  a  soil  containing  no  humus.  Al- 
though this  may  have  proved  true  in  experiments  on  a 
limited  scale,  still  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  in  practi- 
cal agriculture  or  horticulture  the  presence  of  this  ele- 
ment is  absolutely  necessary  to  the  successful  produc- 
tion of  crops.  Supplying  plant  food  in  this  form  is 
nature's  method,  and  therefore  a  practical  and  efficient 
method  of  keeping  up  the  fertility  of  the  soil.  "  Take 
into  consideration  nature's  gi-and  and  universal  compost 
heap.  Of  what  does  it  consist  ?  Of  every  falling  leaf, 
decaying  blade,  the  remains  of  all  insect  and  animal  life  ; 
these  falling  to  the  ground  and  being  incorporated  with 
its  universal  substance,  constitute  soil.  The  coloring  of 
the  ground  extending  on  our  sand  hills  from  one  to  four 
inches  deep  and  in  our  bay  heads  or  around  our  lakes  or 
ponds  to  as  many  feet.  On  the  rich  pampas  of  South 
America,  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Mississippi — all  over 
the  face  of  the  universe  where  vegetation  grows,  nature 
furnishes  in  death  and  decay  the  germ  of  a  new  life,  or, 
in   other  words,  furnishes  food  for  the  rejjroduction  of 


58  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

itself.  This  food,  on  our  sand  hills,  in  our  muck  beds, 
in  the  Mississippi  Valley,  all  over  the  world,  is  identical. 
This  important  fact  should  always  be  borne  in  mind." 
There  may  be,  it  is  true,  such  an  excess  of  humus  in  the 
soil  as  will  be  uncongenial  to  the  growth  of  plants. 
Such  instances  in  Florida  are  extremely  rare,  however, 
the  soils  of  the  State  being,  as  a  general  thing,  especially 
upon  the  high  pine  and  other  poor  lands,  deficient  in 
this  element.  The  only  fertilization  on  such  soils  that 
will  give  lasting  and  satisfactory  results  is  the  applica- 
tion of  humus  in  one  form  or  another.  It  should  be 
noted  that  while  humus  is  the  product  of  both  animal 
and  vegetable  decay,  all  decayed  animal  and  vegetable 
matter  is  not  humus.  The  term  is  properly  applied  to  this 
substance  only  when  in  the  proper  pulverulent  and  soluble 
condition  adapted  to  vegetable  nutrition.  Some  soils 
contain  a  large  amount  of  decomposed  or  partially  de- 
composed vegetable  matter  in  an  insoluble  condition  not 
taken  up  or  assimilated  by  plants.  The  action  of  the 
air  converts  this  material  into  plant  food  or  humus ; 
such  soils  should,  therefore,  be  aerated  by  stirring  and 
by  drainage  when  necessary.  Alkaline  mineral  fertili- 
zers are  efficient  in  bringing  about  this  change,  as  are 
also  animal  fertilizers  to  some  extent,  owing  to  the 
ammonia  which  they  contain. 

Green  Crops  incorporated  with  the  soil  have  long 
been  regarded  as  effective  as  a  fertilizer  or  renovator  of 
worn  out  lands.  The  plants  thus  turned  into  the  soil 
derive  their  sustenance  largely  from  the  atmosphere  and 
rainfall,  and  return  to  the  soil  a  much  larger  amount 
of  plant  food  (humus)  than  they  take  from  it.  Like  all 
fertilizers,  composed  largely  of  humus,  they  improve  the 
mechanical  texture  of  the  soil  as  well  as  increase  its 
fertility,  an  effect  by  no  means  unimjiortant.  There  is 
no  better  way  of  enriching  orange  lands.     Many  plants 


ORANGE  CULTITRR  59 

have  been  recommended  for  this  purpose.  These  are 
valuable  in  proportion  to  the  cost  of  seed,  rapidity  of 
growth  and  the  amount  of  vegetable  matter  they  afford. 
Cow  pease  are  extensively  used  and  yield  perhaps  the 
best  results.  They  should  be  sown  in  May  or  June 
either  broadcast  or  in  drills  and  plowed  in  before  they 
commence  to  run.  After  they  become  matted  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  turn  them  under  with  a  plow.  This  method  en- 
riches the  general  surface  by  distributing  the  vines 
evenly  through  the  soil ;  it  is  a  good  way  to  prepare  the 
ground  for  treas,  and  can  be  continued  for  some  time 
while  the  trees  are  small.  Among  large  trees  the  roots 
interfere  with  the  operation,  and  it  is  a  better  way  to 
apply  the  vines  directly  to  the  trees.  For  this  purpose 
they  should  be  planted  in  drills  or  hills,  worked  fre- 
quently until  the  pods  begin  to  form.  At  this  stage  of 
their  growth  they  are  richest  in  nutrient  elements  and 
should  then  be  cut  with  the  hoe.  Some  advise  piling 
them  around  the  trees  and  allowing  them  to  rot  on  the 
surface,  but  the  better  plan  is  to  bury  them  lightly  just 
beyond  the  roots  of  the  trees.  This  keeps  the  vines 
moist,  facilitating  decay  and  at  the  same  time  secures 
all  the  fertilizing  elements  they  contain,  some  of  which 
would  escape  in  gaseous  form  if  allowed  to  remain  un- 
covered. Where  the  trees  are  too  large,  or  for  any 
other  reason  it  is  not  convenient  to  grow  the  pease  be- 
tween the  rows,  they  can  be  grown  else\vhere,  and  if  the 
roots  prevent  their  being  buried,  they  can  be  covered 
lightly  on  the  surface.  Succulent  weeds,  grass  and  other 
rank  growth  carried  to  the  grove  and  applied  green,  an- 
swers the  same  purpose  admirably.  Some  recommend 
sowing  rye,  oats  or  barley  in  the  fall  and  turning  the 
same  under  in  spring. 

Mulching,  another  and  similar  method  of  supplying 


eO  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

humus  to  the  soil,  has  been  treated  at  length  in  the  pre- 
ceding chapter. 

Muck  is  one  of  the  principal  sources  from  which, 
humus  is  obtained  in  this  State.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
abundant  and  valuable  fertilizing  agencies  we  have  ;  it 
abounds  in  swamps,  marshes,  ponds,  "  bay  heads  "  and 
along  the  shores  of  streams  and  lakes.  In  these  muck- 
beds  vast  quantities  of  organic  matter,  partially  excluded 
from  the  air,  has  slowly  decomposed.  The  compounds 
thus  formed,  contain  the  elements  of  plant-food,  but  in 
an  insoluble  condition.  For  this  reason  applying  muck 
in  a  raw  state  as  dug  from  the  ground,  is  of  little  benefit 
to  the  trees  and  often  really  injurious.  The  only  way 
it  can  be  of  any  value  in  this  condition  is  when  pulver- 
ized and  incorporated  with  the  soil,  it  thus  affords  an 
abundance  of  plant-food,  but  in  an  insoluble  condition, 
requiring  the  acticm  of  tillage  and  exposure  to  the  sun 
and  air,  or  the  application  of  other  agencies,  as  lime, 
etc.,  to  render  it  suitable  food  for  plants.  Muck  is  ren- 
dered soluble—the  only  condition  in  which  it  can  be 
taken  up  by  plants — by  the  action  of  the  .atmosphere. 
Throwing  it  up  in  heaps  and  allowing  it  to  remain  until 
light  and  friable,  is  generally  a  sufficient  prepara- 
tion when  it  is  to  be  composted  with  other  materials  ; 
when  it  is  to  be  applied  directly  to  the  soil  it  takes  too 
long  to  reduce  it  in  this  manner  to  the  proper  condition, 
and  it  should  be  treated  with  lime,  ashes,  potash,  or 
other  alkaline  fertilizers.  Lime  is  said  to  be  more  effi- 
cient if  slacked  in  brine.  The  ammonia  of  nitrogenous 
manures  acts  in  the  same  way — indeed,  this  qualitj'  of 
absorbing,  combining  with  and  retaining  in  a  soluble 
condition  the  valuable  ingredients  of  more  active  fertili- 
zers is  one  of  the  most  valuable  properties  of  muck.  On 
this  account  it  is  far  more  valuable  combined  with  other 
fertilizers  or  used  as  a  basis  for  composting  than  when 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  61 

applied  directly  to  the  soil.  Black  sand  is  sometimes 
mistaken  for  muck,  with  a  little  practice  a  purely  vege- 
table deposit  is  i-eadily  distinguished  from  such  worth- 
less material. 

Barn  Yard  Manure,  containing,  as  it  does,  all  the 
necessary  elements  of  plant-food,  has  been  from  time 
immemorial  the  staple  fertilizer  of  the  farmer  and  fruit- 
grower. It  is  the  standard  by  which  the  value  of  all 
commercial  fertilizers  are  determined.  There  is  no  bet- 
ter fertilizer  for  the  orange.  Well-rotted  and  applied 
directly  to  the  soil  it  is  an  efficient  fertilizer.  This  is 
not  an  economical  method  of  using  it  however.  Stable 
manure  and  all  fertilizers  made  from  the  blood,  bones. 
flesh,  or  excrements  of  animals,  contain  an  excess  of 
ammonia  and  other  valuable  ingredients  which  escape 
in  the  form  of  gasses  during  the  process  of  decomposi- 
tion. Indeed,  if  decomposition  be  complete  there  will 
be  little  left  but  humus.  If  composted  with  muck,  these 
elements  are  not  only  saved  but  the  muck  through  their 
action  is  converted  into  plant-food.  Thus  one  load  of 
stable  manure,  composted  with  two  loads  of  muck,  will 
make  three  loads  of  fertilizer  equal  to  the  best  barn 
yard  manure.  The  same  is  true  of  other  animal  fertili- 
zers to  a  greater  or  less  extent. 

Cotton  Seed  is  also  a  good  fertilizer  for  the  orange. 
The  cotton  seed  meal,  if  pure,  is  more  valuable  than  the 
crude  seed,  as  the  former  contains  more  elements  of  fer- 
tility than  the  same  weight  of  the  latter.  Like  other 
active  fertilizers  the  best  result  is  obtained  by  compost- 
ing it  with  other  materials. 

The  above  are  natural  fertilizers.  In  addition  to 
these,  the  following  mineral  fertilizers  are  used  to  some 
extent  in  orange  culture.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind, 
that  while  they  are  often  very  beneficial,  their  use  is  not 
really  necessary,  as  the  natural  fertilizers  afford  all  the 


62  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

elements  necessary  to  sustain  the  trees  in  perfect  condi- 
tion. They  are  sometimes  applied  directly  to  the  soil, 
but  are  especially  valuable  as  constituents  of  the  com- 
post heap. 

Lime,  like  other  alkaline  fertilizers,  acts  by  neutraliz- 
ing acids,  rendering  insoluble  substances  soluble,  or  by 
forming  new  combinations  in  soils  or  fertilizers.  Nu- 
tritive elements,  existing  in  soils  in  a  condition  not 
suitable  for  plants,  are  thus  rendered  available.  By 
sweetening  "  sour  "  earth,  hastening  decay  and  prepar- 
ing crude  elements  for  plant-food,  it  forms  a  valuable 
addition  to  soil  or  compost.  It  is  not,  strictly  speaking, 
a  fertilizer,  as  it  is  not  itself  taken  up  by  plants.  Its 
effect  on  soils  generally  is  to  impoverish,  for  which  reason 
it  should  not  be  applied  directly  to  the  soil,  except 
where  it  contains  a  superabundance  of  plant-food  in  an 
insoluble  condition  as  on  wet,  boggy  lands.  Its  princi- 
pal use  in  orange  culture  is  in  the  preparation  of  muck. 

Potash  acts  much  in  the  same  way  as  lime,  but  is 
more  valuable  as  a  fertilizer.  It  scarcely  pays  to  pur- 
chase the  commercial  article  for  application  to  orange 
trees,  at  least  until  they  attain  the  bearing  age.  In  the 
form  of  ashes  we  have  it  combined  with  other  valuable 
ingredients  in  an  available  form.  Hard  wood  ashes  is 
one  of  the  best  fertilizers  for  orange  trees.  Like  lime, 
they  are  best  used  combined  with  muck.  Potash  or 
lime  should  not  be  combined  with  nitrogenous  manure. 
"  Potash,  most  available  to  us  in  the  shape  of  ashes, 
should  be  used  strictly  as  a  manure ;  but  the  farmer 
sliould  always  remember  the  property  of  both  ashes  and 
lime  of  displacing  or  driving  off  ammonia.  Frequently 
they  will  take  ashes  and  lime  and  combine  them  in  the 
same  compost  heap  with  barn  yard  manure,  chicken- 
house  scrapings,  or  cotton  seed.  Knowing  that  each  is 
good,  he  naturally  supposes  the  combination  excellent, 


ORANGE  CULTURE  63 

when,  in  fact,  it  destroys  in  a  large  degree  the  value  of 
the  other  fertilizers.  This  important  element,  the  ashes 
or  lime,  displaces  from  its  proper  combinations,  and  it 
escapes  ;  hence  the  manure  is  damaged." 

Phosphoric  Acid  is  perhaps  the  most  important 
mineral  fertilizer  applied  to  the  orange.  As  it  enters 
largely  into  the  composition  of  the  fruit  or  seed,  it  is  es- 
pecially applicable  to  bearing  trees.  It  is  derived  from 
raw  bone,  bone  ash,  bone  black,  phospate  guanos,  etc. 
In  the  form  of  ground  bone  it  can  be  applied  directly 
to  the  soil  with  good  effect.  But  as  superphosphate, 
ground  bone,  or  in  other  form,  it  gives  the  best  results 
when  composted. 

Laud  Plaster  has  been  recommended  by  some  as 
beneficial  on  sandy  soils,  absorbing  and  retaining  the 
volatile  manures  so  easily  expelled  by  our  abundant 
sunshine. 

The  Talue  of  the  Compost  Heap  the  writer  has 
endeavored  to  keep  constantly  before  the  reader  in  the 
foregoing  pages.  When  intelligently  composted  the 
fertilizing  properties  of  all  manures  are  vastly  increased, 
and  valuable  elements  which  otherwise  go  to  waste,  are 
saved.  Some  valuable  manures  applied  in  a  crude  state 
are  injurious,  when  composted  all  such  injurious  effects 
are  avoided.  It  also  affords  an  opportunity  of  utilizing 
the  debris  of  the  farm,  animal  and  vegetable  refuse  of 
all  kinds  should  be  carried  to  the  compost  heap  and  in 
this  way  converted  into  valuable  fertilizers.  Muck, 
where  it  can  be  obtained,  forms  the  best  basis  for  the 
compost.  Straw,  dry  grass,  pea  vines,  etc.,  can  be  added 
with  profit.  Herbage,  cut  green,  can  be  added  with 
good  eflfect,  owing  to  the  nitrogen  (ammonia)  it  contains. 
Where  muck  cannot  be  had,  these  latter  humus-produc- 
ing substances  are  especially  valuable.  The  compost 
heap  should  be   sheltered  from  the  weather  and  kept 


64  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

moist  to  facilitate  decomposition,  and  should  be  turned 
over  or  thoroughly  mixed  occasionally  if  necessary.  It 
is  not  ready  for  use  until  it  is  so  thoroughly  decomposed 
as  to  be  entirely  homogeneous  and  pulverulent.  One 
of  the  best  ingredients  for  the  compost  is  barn  yard 
manure.  It  should  be  mixed  in  the  proportion  of  two 
parts  of  muck  to  one  of  manure.  Other  animal  manures 
can  be  substituted  for  stable  manure  in  about  the  same 
proportion.  Another  combination,  which  has  been 
highly  recommended,  is  one  part  stable  manure,  one 
part  cotton  seed  (or  cotton  seed  meal),  and  three  parts 
muck.  If  the  muck  is  to  be  treated  with  ashes  or  lime, 
this  should  be  done  some  time  before  it  is  composted 
with  the  manure,  in  order  that  the  latter  be  not  injured 
by  the  loss  of  its  ammonia,  which  these  ingredients 
would  occasion.  Another  way  of  using  muck  with 
stable  manure  is  to  place  it  under  the  feet  of  the  stock  ; 
it  is  not  only  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  manure  in  this 
way  but  absorbs  the  urine,  which  is  the  richest  portion 
of  animal  excrement.  Many  formulas  for  composting 
have  been  recommended,  all  of  which  are  good  and  can 
be  used  according  to  the  material  at  hand.  Dr.  G.  W. 
Davis,  in  his  excellent  "  Treatise  on  the  Culture  of  the 
Orange,"  says :  "  One  of  the  best  fertilizers  we  ever  used 
for  the  growing  orange  trees  was  a  compost  of  muck, 
hard  wood  ashes  and  fine  ground  bone — three  parts 
mucl'.,  two  parts  ashes,  and  one  part  bone.  Sink  a  box 
in  the  ground  sufficient  to  contain  the  amount  of  com- 
post you  desire  to  make.  First,  a  layer  of  finely  decom- 
posed muck,  then  a  layer  of  finely  ground  bone,  then 
ashes,  and  so  on  alternately  until  your  compost  is  com- 
plete ;  finishing  off  with  a  thick  layer  of  muck,  moisten 
thoroughly  Avith  water,  and  at  intervals  of  two  or  three 
weeks  renew  the  moistening ;  when  in  about  three 
months  the  solution  of  plant  food  will  be  complete.     No 


ON  ORANCxE  CULTURE.  65 

escape  of  ammonia  will  occur  while  the  fishes  are  dis- 
solving the  bone,  as  the  muck  will  absorb  that  as  fast  as 
it  is  developed.  Remove  from  the  box,  mix  thoroughly 
and  you  have  a  complete  manure  rich  in  plant  food." 
The  Department  of  Agriculture  of  the  State  of  Georgia 
has,  in  a  series  of  experiments,  extending  through  the 
past  six  years,  carefully  compared  a  compost  of  super- 
photr-phate,  cotton  seed  and  stable  manure  with  the  best 
grade  of  commercial  fertilizers.  The  result  has  been 
decidedly  in  favor  of  the  former.  The  following  formu- 
las are  given  in  the  report  of  these  experiments  : 

•"  If  the  stable  manure  and  cotton  seed  have  been  pro- 
tected from  waste  by  exposure  to  rain  and  sun,  this  formu- 
la is  recommended  :  Stable  manure,  650  pounds  ;  green 
cotton  seed,  650,  and  superphosphate  700  pounds,  mak- 
ing a  ton  of  2,000.  If  the  compost  is  intended  for  use 
on  soil  particularly  deficient  in  potash,  the  following 
formula  may  be  employed :  Stable  manure,  600 
pounds ;  cotton  seed,  green,  600  pounds ;  superphos- 
phate, 700  pounds,  and  kainit,  100  pounds,  mak- 
ing a  ton  of  2,000  pounds.  These  ingredients  may 
be  varied  in  proportions  to  adapt  the  resulting  composts 
to  different  soils  or  crops,  but  either  of  the  above  is 
recommended  as  giving  satisfactory  results  on  any  class 
of  soils  and  on  all  cultivated  crops. 

''  The ,  ingredients  may  be  mixed  either  by  building 
up  the  heap  by  alternate  layers  of  the  ingredients,  or 
they  may  be  thoroughly  mixed  and  then  thrown  into  a 
heap.  In  either  case  water  should  be  freely  used  on  the 
coarse  materials  while  composting.  A  plan  of  compost- 
ing followed  by  many  consists  in  spreading  under  shelter 
a  layer  of  stable  manure  four  inches  thick  ;  on  this 
sprinkle  a  portion  of  the  jjhosphate ;  next  spread  a  layer 
of  cotton-seed  three  inches  thick  ;  wet  these  thoroughly 
with  water  and  then  apply  more  of  the  phosphate  ;  next 


66  MANVILLES  TREATISE  ON 

spread  another  layer  of  stable  manure  three  inches 
thick,  and  continue  to  repeat  these  layers  in  the  above 
order,  and  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of  each  used  to 
the  ton,  until  the  material  is  consumed.  Cover  the 
whole  mass  with  stable  manure,  or  sc2*apings  from  the 
lot,  one  or  two  inches  thick.  Allow  the  heap  to  stand 
in  this  condition  until  a  thorough  fermentation  takes 
place,  which  will  require  from  three  to  six  weeks,  ac- 
cording to  circumstances  dependent  upon  a  proper  de- 
gree of  moisture  and  the  strength  of  the  materials  used. 
When  the  cotton  seed  are  thoroughly  killed  with  a 
sharp  hoe  or  mattock,  cut  down  vertically  through  the 
layers,  pulverize  and  shovel  into  a  heap,  where  the  fer- 
mentation will  be  renewed  and  the  compost  be  still 
further  improved.  Let  it  lie  two  weeks  after  cutting 
down ;  it  will  then  be  ready  for  use. 

The  so-called  Complete  Manures  have  been  ex- 
tensively used  in  orange  culture,  giving  satisfaction  in 
some  instances  and  dissatisfaction  in  others.  They  are 
said  to  contain  the  chemical  elements  in  the  same  pro- 
portion as  found  in  the  plant  which  they  are  designed  to 
nourish,  the  ingredients  and  their  relative  proportions  be- 
ing altered  according  to  the  requirements  of  the  crop  to 
which  they  are  to  be  applied.  It  is  doubtful  whether 
chemical  analysis  can  be  safely  relied  upon  to  this  extent 
in  the  manufacture  of  fertilizers.  Chemistry  deals  only 
with  dead  matter,  by  it  we  learn  what  forms  the  dead 
plant ;  it  affords  us  means  of  ascertaining  the  component 
parts  of  the  living  plant,  and  if  these  be  the  same  as  in  the 
dead  form,  it  fails  to  indicate  how  they  are  affected  by  the 
vital  principle.  It  is  quite  possible  that  vegetable  nu- 
trition goes  on  entirely  independent  of  chemical  action, 
perhaps  resolving  the  plant  food  taken  up  from  the 
soil  into  more  ultimate  elements  than  chemistry  has  yet 
been  able  to   do.      The   following  is  from   Youman's 


ORANGE  CULTURE  67 

Chemistry:  "Prof.  Auderson  states  that  it  is  only  in 
rare  instances  possible  to  connect  together  tlae  chemical 
composition  and  properties  of  the  soil ;  that  analysis  is 
frequently  incapable  of  distinguishing  between  a  fertile 
and  a  barren  soil ;  that  it  discloses  only  a  part  of  the 
conditions  of  fertility,  and  that  with  each  advancement 
in  the  accuracy  of  its  processes  the  difficulties  have  in- 
creased rather  than  diminished.  Still,  in  the  study  of 
soils  we  cannot  dispense  with  the  aid  that  chemistry 
affords."  However  this  may  be,  it  is  probable  that 
other  manurial  properties  than  their  chemical  constitu- 
ents gives  this  class  of  fertilizers  their  value,  which  is 
only  determined  by  actual  experiment.  These  and 
most  other  commercial  fertilizers,  which  are  prepared 
for  immediate  application,  act  quickly,  though  their 
effect  is  seldom  lasting,  forcing  the  trees  into  rapid  but 
often  abnormal  growth.  They  may  be  adapted  to  the 
production  of  annual  crops,  but  are  too  stimulating  and 
concentrated  to  be  applied  to  orange  trees. 


CHAPTER    XII. 


FERTILIZING. 


M'0^  ONSIDERABLE  space  has  been  given  to 
'•'^^''  ■  the  subject  of  fertilization,  because  in  most 
places  in  Florida  it  is  the  sine  qua  non  in 
orange  farming,  the  great  ])r()blem  being  to 
accomplish  this  most  effectively  at  the  least  possible 
cost.  The  orange  can  be  grown  u])on  very  poor  sf)il, 
but  with  indifferent  success ;  it  is  naturally  a  strong 
grower  and  a  voracious  feeder  and  responds  generously 
if  afforded  a  liberal  supply  of  plant  food. 

The  Best  Fertilizers. — Various  fertilizers  are  used 
and  different  methods  employed  in  their  application.  In- 
deed, the  experimental  and  hap-hazard  nature  of  the 
methods  generally  employed,  is  one  reason  why  better  re- 
sults are  not  obtained.  The  present  extensive  use  of  com- 
mercial fertilizers  in  orange  culture  is  to  be  deprecated. 
Although  they  are  easily  transported  and  handled,  and  can 
be  applied  without  loss  of  time,  producing  an  immediate 
effect,  they  are  expensive,  and  it  is  questionable  whether 
the  results  obtained  are  commensurate  with  the  outlay. 
Again,  there  is  no  safeguard  against  their  adulteration, 
and  a  large  proportion  of  them  are  undoubtedly  adul- 
terated. It  is  impossible  fort  he  grower  to  detect  this, 
and  he  has  no  means  of  knowing  whether  his  applica- 
tion will  prove  beneficial,  useless  or  injurious.  Those 
fertilizers  which  are  used  with  the  best  results  in  orange 
culture  are  indicated  in  the  preceeding  chapter.     The 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  69 

mineral  fertilizers  enumerated  are  not  designed  for  gen- 
ei'al  application  and  should  only  be  used  on  soils  and 
under  circumstances  where  they  have  special  applica- 
tion. The  natural  fertilizers  are  best  suited  to  the 
orange  and  are  most  economically  used  in  the  form  of 
composts.  As  it  matters  little  which  particular  material 
or  formula  for  combinations  are  used,  those  materials  and 
methods  should  be  used  in  any  particular  locality,  which 
are  least  expensive  and  most  readily  a[)plied. 

The  Best  Time. — Fertilizers  should  not  be  applied 
until  the  trees  have  taken  hold  upon  the  soil  and  com- 
menced growing  after  being  planted.  If  there  is  to  be  but 
one  application  during  the  year  it  should  be  made  early 
in  spring,  say  in  February  or  in  March  ;  if  the  trees 
are  to  be  fertilized  twice,  the  second  application  should 
be  made  in  June  or  July.  They  should  not  be  fertilized 
later  than  this  as  there  is  a  possibility  of  injury  from 
frost  if  the  trees  are  forced  into  too  active  growth  late  in 
season. 

Application. — Whatever  the  fertilizer  may  be,  ex- 
cepting of  course,  green  crops  and  mulching,  it  should 
be  reduced  to  the  proper  homogenous  and  pulverulent 
condition  before  it  is  fit  for  use.  If  the  trees  are  to  re- 
ceive individual  applications,  the  soil  should  be  drawn 
back  with  the  hoe  in  a  circle  just  beyond  the  extremi- 
ties of  the  feeding  roots  and  the  fertilizer  spread  lightly 
over  the  surface  thus  laid  bare,  raked  in  and  covered 
lightly  by  drawing  the  earth  which  has  been  removed 
back  to  its  place  again.  As  the  trees  grow  larger,  the 
better  way  when  possibfe  is  to  cast  the  fertilizer  broad 
cast  and  turn  it  under  lightly  with  the  plow,  or  thor- 
oughly mix  it  w4th  soil  with  the  cultivator.  A  large 
quantity  is  not  necessary  to  keep  the  trees  in  vig- 
orous growing  condition,  a  limited  amount,  in  the 
proper  condition,  frequently  applied,  produces  the  best 


70  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

results.  The  common  practice  of  scattering  fertilizers 
upon  the  surface  and  simply  raking  them  in,  or  at  least, 
but  imperfectly  mixing  them  with  the  soil,  is  a  poor  one. 
While  they  should  not  be  turned  under  too  deeply,  they 
should  be  completely  covered  with  soil  or  thoroughly 
incorporated  with  its  substance. 

Leachy  Soils. — Although  the  soils  and  subsoils  of 
Florida  are  for  the  most  part  sandy,  it  is  a  mistaken 
notion  that  there  is  any  considerable  loss  of  fertilizers 
through  their  being  carried  down  beyond  the  reach  of 
the  roots  by  rainfall,  or  in  other  words,  through  the 
leachy  nature  of  the  soil.  The  fact  is  that  the  greatest 
and  only  loss  of  any  consequence  is  by  evaporation  oc- 
casioned by  the  action  of  sun  and  air.  This  is  one  of 
the  reasons  why  constant  culture  in  mid-summer  is  so 
injurious,  stirring  the  ground  continuously  at  this  season 
soon  bleaches  and  impoverishes  the  soil.  One  of  the 
earliest  settlers  and  most  celebrated  orange  growers  in 
Florida  is  the  authority  for  the  statement,  that  the 
richest  land  in  the  State  can  be  so  completely  exhausted 
by  constant  stirring  without  allowing  anything  green 
to  grow,  that  at  the  expiration  of  a  few  years  it  will  not 
sprout  cow  pease.  The  writer  cannot  do  better  than 
quote  the  following,  on  this  point,  from  an  article  which 
appeared  in  the  Country  Gentleman,  having  special  refer- 
ence to  the  sands  of  New  Jersey,  but  equally  applicable 
to  Florida: 

"  We  are  continually  hearing  and  reading  of  the 
leachy  character  of  light  soils,  especially  those  having 
a  sandy  sub-soil.  Now,  there  is  no  more  mistaken  idea 
in  existence  than  this,  that  sandy  soil,  being  leachy,  is 
liable  to  suffer  terrible  from  drouth.  The  writer's  soil 
is  quite  light,  in  places  very  light,  but  it  rarely  suffers* 
from  dry  weather,  and  never  from  wet.  In  a  dry  time 
the  cultivator  will  turn  up  moist  soil,  and  the  corn  and 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  71 

mangles  will  go  on  growing  and  retain  their  color  when 
crops  on  clay  soils  are  wilted  and  baked.  He  has  seen 
clay  land  cracked  open  with  dry  weather  and  the  sur- 
face too  hard  to  be  touched,  while  sandy  soils  remained 
loose  and  absorbent,  and  were  continually  bringing  up 
moisture  from  below.  The  soil  at  Rothamsted  is  clay 
and  Mr.  Lawes  states  that  nitric  acid  is  lost  with  great 
rapidity  from  his  soil  in  the  drainage  water  ;  therefore, 
it  might  be  said  that  clay  soil  is  lekchy.  It  is  well- 
known  that  a  sandy  loam  soil  retains  and  holds  in  ab- 
sorption a  much  larger  quantity  of  water,  and  resists 
evaporation  much  better  than  a  clay  soil.  It  must  then 
be  even  less  leachy  than  a  clay  soil.  In  actual  practice 
and  from  long  experience,  he  is  well  satisfied  that  a 
light,  sandy,  loam  soil  can  never  be  so  thoroughly  satu- 
rated with  manure  by  any  ordinary  course  of  farming 
as  to  become  affected  one  foot  from  the  surface,  unless 
it  is  by  the  ploughing  in  of  manure  to  that  depth.  So  long 
as  the  manure  is  kept  within  six  inches  of  the  surface 
the  line  of  dark  soil  will  be  less  than  a  foot  in  depth. 
But  supposing  that  the  manure  should  flow  downwards 
two  feet,  that  would  be  all  the  better,  for  the  roots  would 
be  after  it  without  fail,  And  very  quickly.  But  the 
manure  does  not  pass  downward  through  the  sand  ;  as 
he  has  proven  by  digging  under  his  manure  heaps  and 
barnyards  exposed  to  all  the  rains  of  the  season  for  a 
year — he  found  signs  of  it  but  an  inch  or  so  below  the 
surface  on  the  sandy  soil. 

"  To  further  test  the  matter,  Mr.  Stewart  had  some 
bottomless  glass  test  tubes,  two  inches  in  diameter,  filled 
with  sandy  sub-soil,  clean  and  yellow  in  color,  a  foot 
deep  with  an  inch  of  space  on  the  top.  Every  week  he 
fills  this  inch  with  liquid  manure  of  the  color  of  coffee, 
gathered  from  the  manure  gutter  and  diluted  with  water. 
This  is  equivalent  to  52  inches  of  rainfall  in  the  year. 


72  MANVILLE'R  TREATISE  ON 

The  surface  is  exposed  to  the  air  under  cover.  He  has 
been  keeping  this  in  operation  for  three  years,  and  as 
yet  not  a  drop  of  water  has  passed  through  the  bottom 
with  the  least  appearance  of  color  or  mixture  or  any 
scent  whatever,  nor  has  he  until  recently  found  any  in- 
dication of  the  presence  of  organic  matter  in  the  filtered 
water  by  a  test  of  nitric  acid.  The  soil  is  now  discol- 
ored for  about  three  inches  in  depth,  which  is  not  more 
than  a  fourth  of  the  depth  he  wants  fields  enriched.  To 
call  such  soils  as  this  leaky,  or  without  a  bottom,  or 
unable  to  hold  manure,  is  a  great  mistake." 

Mr.  .Steward  admits  that  light  soils  require  peculiar 
management.  Contrary  to  the  general  opinion,  he  be- 
lieves them  to  be  the  very  soils  for  diary  farms — being 
warm,  dry,  and  yet  moist;  never  muddy  ;  easily  worked  ; 
productive  of  the  very  best  fodder  crops,  such  as  rye, 
oats  and  pease,  clover,  orchard  grass,  corn,  mangels  and 
millet ;  and  of  the  very  best  market  crops,  as  potatoes, 
pease,  beans,  sweet  corn,  melons,  carrots,  turnips  and 
tomatoes,  and  there  is  no  other  farming  that  is  so  profit- 
able as  these  two  combined. 

Hammock  Laud. — Rich  hammock  lands  require  lit- 
tle fertilizing  for  some  years,  but  even  on  such  lands  it 
is  well  to  turn  under  green  crops  or  to  apply  fertilizers 
occasionally  to  keep  their  fertility  up  to  the  standard. 

Young  Trees. — While  the  trees  are  young  the  ob- 
ject is  to  hasten  them  along  to  the  bearing  age  as  soon 
as  possible  and  they  should  be  kept  growing  as  rapidly 
as  is  consistent  with  perfect  health.  To  accomplish  this, 
active  nitrogenous  manures  are  applied  with  advan- 
tage. 

Beariug  Trees. — When  the  trees  reach  the  bearing 
age,  the  object  is  to  produce  the  greatest  possible  amount 
of  perfect  fruit.  If  the  same  manures  are  still  applied, 
the  fruit,  though  large  and  fine  in  appearance,  will  be 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  73 

coarse,  pulpy,  and  insipid,  indicating  that  bearing  trees 
require  a  change  of  fertilizers.  As  the  trees  are  no 
longer  growing  so  rapidly  they  do  not  require  fertilizers 
which  produce  wood,  but  rather  those  which  go  to  make 
up  the  fruit.  The  fruit  or  seed  contains  a  much  larger 
percentage  of  potash  and  phosphoric  acid  than  other 
portions  of  the  plant,  the  latter  element  is  especially 
essential  to  all  mature  plants.  Though  a  limited  amount 
of  stable  manure  or  similar  fertilizer,  if  thoroughly  com- 
posted, will  produce  no  bad  effect  and  keep  the  trees 
growing  moderately,  still  for  application  to  bearing 
trees,  the  quantity  of  nitrogenous  manure  should  be 
largely  reduced.  Potash,  phosphoric  acid  or  fertilizers 
containing  these  ingredients  such  as  ashes,  ground  bone, 
etc.,  can  be  substituted  for  them  with  advantage,  and 
either  applied  directly  to  the  trees  or  in  compost,  the 
latter  being  far  preferable.  Or  in  place  of  more  stimu- 
lating fertilizers,  the  grower  can  rely  entirely  and  with 
equally  as  good  effect  upon  decayed  vegetation  in  the 
form  of  muck,  mulch,  or  green  crop  ;  these  will  sustain 
a  healthy  growth  of  wood,  and  at  the  same  time  afford 
material  for  the  production  of  superior  fruit. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 


PRUNING. 

ROM  the  fact  that  the  orange  tree,  if  allowed 
to  grow  without  training,  will  in  time  acquire 
a  symmetrical  form  and  reasonable  fruitfuln ess, 
many  have  inferred  that  it  requires  little  or 
no  pruning  in  order  to  produce  the  best  results.  This 
is  an  error,  however,  for  nature  will  accomplish  the  de- 
sired result  much  sooner  and  more  satisfactorily  if  judi- 
ciously aided  with  the  knife  and  saw.  At  the  same 
time  it  is  also  true  that  more  harm  than  good  is  often 
done  by  an  injudicious  use  of  these  instruments ;  hap- 
hazard or  arbitrary  methods  are  always  injurious. 

Object. — The  object  to  be  accomplished  and  the 
methods  to  be  used  should  always  be  kept  distinctly  in 
view.  Orange  trees  are  pruned  to  promote  growth  and 
fruitfulness.     This  is  done  in  three  ways : 

1.  By  removing  decayed  or  useless  branches. 

2.  By  assisting  the  tree  to  form  a  proper  shape. 

3.  By  admitting  light  and  air  to  the  interior  of  the 
tree. 

Excepting  the  necessary  "  cutting  back  "  at  the  time 
of  transplanting,  the  above  comprises  all  the  objects  to 
be  accomplished  in  pruning  orange  trees. 

System. — The  system  of  pruning  applied  to  the  ap- 
ple, peach,  pear,  and  other  fruits  of  more  northern  lati- 
tudes, is  not  adapted  to  the  orange.  The  former  make 
a  regular  growth  at  stated  times  each  year  and  by  fol- 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  75 

lowing  a  certain  plan  of  pruning  year  after  year  the 
tree  is  given  the  desired  form.  Although  the  orange  and 
other  citrus  fruits  are  more  irregular  both  in  their  habit 
and  time  of  growth,  requiring  a  different  method  of 
treatment  in  this  particular  ;  still,  if  pruning  be  com- 
menced early  enough  and  followed  up  systematically, 
the  growth  of  the  tree  will  be  guided  in  the  right  direc- 
tion, and  it  will  increase  in  size  much  faster  and  assume 
the  proper  shape  much  sooner  than  it  would  otherwise 
have  done. 

Young  Trees.— The  most  important  time  in  forming 
the  shape  of  an  orange  tree  is  during  the  first  two  or 
three  years  after  it  has  been  budded.  The  tree  needs 
the  closest  attention  at  this  time  and  should  be  gone 
over  every  week  or  ten  days  during  the  growing  season, 
the  useless  shoots  removed  and  each  successive  growth 
pinched  back  so  as  to  form  a  regular  and  systematical 
top.  If  the  buds  are  properly  pruned  for  the  first  two 
or  three  years,  their  subsequent  pruning  is  greatly  sim- 
plified and  they  will  rapidly  assume  the  desired  form. 
This  point  will  bear  emphasizing.  While  orange  trees, 
after  they  attain  any  considerable  size,  cannot  be  pruned 
down  to  form  low  heads,  pruned  up  to  form  high  heads, 
or  shaped  at  will  with  the  same  facility  as  some  other 
fruits  which  have  been  systematically  trained,  still,  if 
properly  pruned  while  young,  they  will  naturally  and 
rapidly  grow  into  beautifully  and  systematically  shaped 
trees.  Trees  thus  trained  in  the  nursery  are  far  prefer- 
able to  those  which  have  been  allowed  to  grow  at  will. 
Little  attention  has  been  given  heretofore  to  this  matter, 
but  nurserymen  and  propagators  are  now  giving  it  the 
attention  it  deserves. 

Older  Trees. — After  the  buds  have  grown  two  or 
three  years  and  the  trees  have  been  set  in  grove  form, 
the  pinching  back  practiced  in  the  nursery  is  no  longer 


76  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

practicable,  and  the  trees  must  be  allowed  to  some  ex- 
tent to  take  their  own  course.  It  will  no  longer  do  to 
shorten  the  growing  branches  of  the  tree.  Water 
sprouts,  however,  from  either  the  body  or  top  must  not 
be  permitted  to  grow ;  a  distinction  is  to  be  made  be- 
tween the  strong  shooting  branches,  which  are  to  form 
the  enlarged  top,  and  the  crude  immature  water  sprouts 
which  are  to  be  removed.  Limbs  which  chafe  or  inter- 
fere with  each  other  should  also  be  removed.  The  in- 
terior of  the  tree  should  be  kept  free  from  dead  wood, 
thorns  and  small  branches.  The  orange  bears  all  its 
fruit  upon  the  terminal  branches  and  the  inner  branches 
add  nothing  to  its  capacity  for  fruit.  The  head  of  the 
mature  tree  extends  from  the  ground  at  the  ex- 
tremities of  the  lateral  branches  in  symmetrical  form  to 
the  topmost  bough,  and  the  interior  kept  open  allows 
light  and  air  to  penetrate  freely  and  prevents  the  har- 
boring of  insects.  This  is  the  natural  as  well  as  the 
most  advantageous  form.  If  allowed  to  grow  without 
attention,  the  lateral  branches  reach  to  the  ground  on 
either  side  and  the  inner  twigs  and  branches  decay  and 
fall  off;  if  these  are  pruned  away,  however,  the  ener- 
gies of  the  tree,  which  would  be  taxed  with  their  re- 
moval, are  directed  exclusively  to  making  new  wood, 
thus  increasing  the  bearing  surface  of  the  tree.  Very 
few,  if  any  of  the  trees  that  have  been  planted  up  to  this 
time  in  the  State,  have  been  pruned  while  young,  accord- 
ing to  any  particular  plan  or  system,  and  they  conse- 
quently present  every  variety  of  form  imaginable. 
Here,  common  sense  must  be  the  guide,  and  the  opera- 
tion modified  and  adapted  to  the  exigences  of  each  indi- 
vidual case.  Keep  the  inside  of  the  head  open,  and  if 
the  tree  has  not  yet  reached  maturity,  select  those 
branches  on  all  sides  best  suited  to  form  a  symmetrical 
top,  remove  other  branches  and  smaller  limbs  from  the 


ORANGE  CULTURE  77 

inside  of  the  tree.  The  trees  will  look  rather  bare  for  a 
time,  but  the  branches  thus  selected  and  trained  will 
soon  form  a  more  shapely  top.  It  will  not  do  after  the 
first  two.or  three  years  (during  which  time  the  shape  of 
the  tree  should  be  determined)  to  cut  back  the  principal 
upward  shooting  branches  of  the  tree  in  order  to  form  a 
low  head  or  to  extend  the  lateral  branches,  this  will  not 
accomplish  the  object  and  will  only  result  in  checking 
the  growth  of  the  tree.  If  the  trees  run  up  tall  and 
straight,  as  is  often  the  case  with  trees  that  have  not 
been  properly  pruned,  especially  with  seedlings,  after 
the  thick  branches  have  been  removed  from  the  inside 
of  the  tree,  the  long  straight  branches  that  stretch  sky- 
ward can  be  bent  over  and  fastened  in  this  position  by 
lines  tied  to  stakes  driven  into  the  ground.  This  not  only 
encourages  the  trees  to  extend  their  branches  laterally, 
but  also  hastens  fruit  bearing,  as  does  any  operation 
which  checks  the  upward  flow  of  sap. 

Height  of  the  Stem. — It  matters  little  whether  the 
stem  be  one  or  four  feet  high  so  far  as  the  ultimate 
shape  of  the  tree  is  concerned,  as  the  outer  limbs  ap- 
proach constantly  nearer  and  eventually  touch  the 
ground  in  either  case.  But  while  the  tree  is  young,  the 
lower  branches  are  a  great  protection  to  the  stem,  and 
for  this  reason  should  be  encouraged  to  form  as  low 
down  as  possible,  though  it  will  be  necessary  to  remove 
them  as  the  tree  becomes  larger  and  the  main  lateral 
•branches  extend  farther.  If  the  tree  has  been  trained 
when  young  to  branch  at  some  distance  from  the  ground, 
forming  a  long  stem,  the  branches  cannot  of  course  be 
made  to  protect  the  stem  until  the  pendant  laterals  ex- 
tend out  far  enough  to  do  this. 

Time. — When  pruning  is  begun  when  the  trees  are 
young  and  continued  systematically  as  they  grow  older, 
it  makes  little  difference  at  what  season  of  the  year  it  is 


78  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

done,  as  there  would  be  little  to  remove  at  any  one 
time  the  effect  on  the  tree  would  be  slight.  With  bear- 
ing trees  the  bulk  of  the  work  can  be  most  conveniently 
done  perhaps,  after  the  fruit  has  been  gathered  .and  be- 
fore the  trees  bloom,  as  at  this  time  there  is  no  danger 
of  interfering  with  the  fruit.  When  considerable  wood 
is  to  be  taken  from  the  trees,  or  there  is  to  be  extensive 
pruning,  it  should  always  be  done  in  the  spring  after  all 
danger  of  frost  is  over.  If  done  earlier  it  is  apt  to  start 
the  trees  growing,  rendering  them  liable  to  injury  from 
cold.  When  done  at  the  proper  time  the  trees  have  all 
summer  to  grow  in,  and  by  fall  the  openings  have  been 
closed  up  by  new  wood  and  the  trees  are  prepared  for 
winter. 

Instruments. — The  instruments  used  in  pruning 
should  always  be  kept  sharp  ;  a  smooth,  clean  cut  will 
heal  over  in  half  the  time  required  by  a  rough,  uneven 
wound.  Large  branches  should  be  cut  with  the  saw ;  the 
knife  should  be  used  for  smoothing  over  the  cuts  made  by 
the  saw  and  in  making  smooth  cuts  in  severing  smaller 
branches  frohi  the  larger  limbs  ;  the  shears  are  the  best  in- 
strument for  cutting  back  the  smaller  branches  and  for  re- 
moving thorns  and  dead  wood.  In  cutting  back  a  limb  or 
branch  make  a  clean  cut  close  to  a  bud  on  the  side  from 
which  the  next  growth  is  desired,  in  this  way  the  new 
growth  is  directed  and  the  form  largely  controlled. 

Root  Pruning. — Root  pruning  is  practiced  to  pre- 
pare large  trees  for  transplanting,  and  sometimes  to  pro- 
mote fruit  bearing.  For  particulars  regarding  the  oper- 
ation, see  chapter  on  planting. 


tc^ta^is^Li^xxj;^^^!!^^ 


CHAPTER    XIV. 


DISEASES. 

*)^'  HE  orange  and  its  congeners  are  perhaps  the 
longest-lived  fruit  trees  grown  in  semi-tropi- 
cal climates.  Where  surrounded  by  condi- 
tions, which  conduce  to  their  most  perfect  de- 
velopment, they  live  and  flourish  for  upwards  of  a  cen- 
tury. Indeed,  we  have  recoixi  of  trees  which  have  sur- 
vived more  than  four  hundred  years.  In  its  best  estate 
in  Florida,  the  orange  tree  is  seldom  or  never  affected 
by  disease,  and  premature  decay  or  disease,  where  it 
exists,  is  largely  if  not  entirely  attributable  to  the  in- 
adaptation  of  location,  soil,  food  or  culture  to  the  i-e- 
quirements  of  the  tree.  Proper  conditions  in  these  par- 
ticulars will  invariably  produce  healthy  trees.  In  other 
words,  no  disease  has  yet  appeared  in  this  State  which 
attacks  the  orange  or  other  citrus  trees  to  any  consid- 
erable extent  where  properly  planted  upon  a  soil  adapted 
to  its  growth  and  cultivated  in  the  proper  manner.  The 
general  treatment  applicable  to  all  diseases  alike  being 
to  remove  the  aggravating  cause  and  to  supply  the  condi- 
tions necessary  to  the  normal  development  of  the  tree, 
which  latter  conditions,  the  writer  has  endeavored  to 
set  forth  in  the  foregoing  chapter  of  this  work. 

Die-Back. — Die-back  is  the  most  common  and  perni- 
cious disease  that  aifects  the  orange  tree.  Trees  affected 
by  this  disease  exhibit  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  the  fol- 
lowing symptoms,  viz  ;     The  rapid  formation  of  imma- 


80  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

tiire,  angular  new  growth,  twisting  and  turning  down- 
ward, bark  of  the  affected  part  wrinkled  and  blistered ; 
these  blisters  or  nodules  generally  burst,  exuding  sap, 
which  collects  on  the  surface  in  the  form  of  resinous 
gum  of  a  reddish-brown  or  rust  color,  on  which  account 
it  is  sometimes  called  the  red  rust ;  buds  abnormally 
developed,  forming  diseased  clusters  which  fail  to  per- 
fect leaves  or  twigs,  leaves  somewhat  curled  ;  the  new 
growth  dies  back  first,  then  the  smaller  branches,  the 
process  continuing  until  the  entire  tree  becomes  diseased 
and  dies.  Although  the  disease  is  produced  by  various 
causes,  these  symptoms  are  always  present  to  a  greater 
or  less  extent  in  all  cases  of  true  die-back. 

The  specific  nature  of  the  disease  is  not  perfectly  un- 
derstood. It  is,  however,  neither  caused  by  fungus  nor 
insect,  but  probably  results  from  faulty  nutrition  occa- 
sioned by  improper  conditions  which  surround  the  tree. 
As  a  rule,  it  is  not  communicable  from  one  tree  to  an- 
other, and  is  only  found  where  the  conditions  exists 
which  produce  it. 

Die-back  prevails  upon  a  certain  class  of  flat-lands, 
even  when  drained,  where  a  poor  white  sand  overlays  a 
pernicious  hard-pan  very  near  the  surface.  It  is  also 
found  where  a  quicksand  subsoil  comes  in  contact  with 
the  roots  of  the  trees,  especially  where  drainage  is  defi- 
cient. Upon  such  soils,  and  wherever  the  ground  is 
liable  to  become  saturated  with  water  beyond  the  possi- 
bility of  drainage,  the  only  remedy  is  to  remove  the 
trees  to  a  more  congenial  spot. 

Deep  planting  is  another  prolific  source  of  this  disease, 
the  smothered  roots  are  unable  to  perform  their  func- 
tions in  supplying  the  proper  nourishment  and  the  tree 
soon  languishes.  Whenever  the  trees  are  affected  by 
die-back,  or  otherwise  diseased  or  stunted  from  this 
cause,  they  should,  if  not  too  far  gone  to  pay  for  the 


ON  ORANGE  CULTURE.  81 

trouble,  be  raised  at  once.  (See  chapter  on  planting. ) 
Earth,  weeds,  grass,  or  other  debris  about  the  collar  or 
above  the  roots  affect  the  tree  in  the  same  way.  Unless 
care  be  taken,  plowing,  hoeing  or  mulching  the  trees 
often  gives  rise  to  this  trouble.  Accumulations  of  this 
character  should  be  kept  drawn  away  from  the  trees. 

Another  cause  of  this  disease  is  a  wet  soil  and  the 
remedy  is  ditching  or  underdraining.  In  cases  where 
the  land,  though  adapted  to  the  orange,  is  so  low  as  to 
be  in  danger  of  saturation  in  seasons  of  excessive  rain- 
fall or  flood,  in  addition  to  surface  drainage,  the  trees 
should  be  set  on  ridges  two  or  three  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  surface  thrown  up  for  the  purpose.  Trees,  which 
in  their  original  positions  upon  such  land  were  affected 
with  die-back,  have  been  entirely  freed  from  it  by  be- 
ing raised  in  this  manner. 

Powerful  manures,  such  as  barn-yard  manure,  cotton 
seed,  guano,  animal  refuse,  etc.,  if  applied  in  a  crude  or 
undecomposed  state,  produce  die-back.  All  such  fertili- 
zers should  be  well  rotted,  or  better  still,  composted,  be- 
fore they  are  used,  and  even  then  should  not  be  applied 
in  excessive  quantities  to  individual  trees.  Trees  af- 
fected by  die-back  from  this  cause  generally  recover  in 
time,  as  the  materials  decompose,  unless  the  quantity 
applied  has  been  very  large. 

Clean  culture  in  summer  or  tearing  the  roots  with  the 
plow,  often  produces  this  disease,  especially  is  it  the  case 
on  low  land  where  the  moisture  in  the  soil  renders  the 
roots  liable  to  be  scalded  by  the  sun.  The  remedy  in 
such  cases  is  of  course  to  substitute  correct  for  iujurious 
methods. 

The  disease  can  generally  be  traced  to  (me  or  other 
of  the  above  causes.  The  diseased  parts  should  be 
removed  as  nearly  as  possible  in  all  cases,  and  the  trees 
surrounded  by  every  influence  conducing  to  health  and 


82  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

vigor.  Where  the  trees  are  very  badly  diseased,  it  is 
the  best  policy  to  discard  them  altogether  aud  begin 
with  new  specimens. 

Die-back  is  often  erroneously  used  as  a  general  term, 
including  all  affections  of  the  orange  which  occasion  a 
dying  of  the  twigs  or  branches.  As  has  been  shown 
above,  it  is  distinct,  each  case  exhibiting  the  peculiar 
symptoms  of  the  disease.  Where  these  symptoms  are 
wanting,  even  though  the  limbs  may  die,  the  tree  is  not 
affected  by  die-back.  Poverty  of  soil,  insects,  the  natural 
thinning  out  of  the  interior  branches  of  trees  which 
have  not  been  properly  pruned,  and  perhaps  other 
causes,  will  sometimes  occasion  the  death  of  the  limbs 
when  there  is  really  no  disease ;  the  only  treatment  re- 
quired being  to  remove  the  decaying  part  and  give  the 
tree  proper  attention  in  the  matter  of  cultivation,  fertili- 
zation, etc. 

Limlb-Blight. — Limb-blight  is  the  name  applied  to 
a  dying  or  blighting  of  the  limbs  observed  in  some  sec- 
tions to  distinguish  the  disease  from  die-back  from  which 
it  is  distinct,  resembling  the  latter  only  in  the  dying  of 
the  limbs.  It  is  supposed  by  Dr.  Z.  H.  Mason  to  be  the 
result  of  a  fungoid  growth,  from  whom  we  quote  the 
following,  viz  :  "  There  is  another  disease  that  may 
properly  be  termed  limb-blight,  to  distinguish  it  from  the 
die-back.  It  is  known  among  old  settlers  in  this  sec- 
tion as  '  curl  leaf.'  As  far  as  my  observation  extends, 
its  attack  is  confined  to  trees  sixteen  years  old  and  up- 
wards. I  have  seen  it  only  in  bearing  trees.  In  my 
own  grove  it  affects  my  oldest  and  most  productive 
trees,  except  the  large  trees  that  I  transplanted  years 
ago,  shortening  the  tap  root,  they  continue  healthy.  I 
have  noticed  it  in  trees  that  were  apparently  healthy 
and  vigorous,  yet  having  some  curled  leaves ;  they  were 
planted  on  land  having  a  natural  drainage.     I  find  the 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  83 

disease  in  groves  planted  on  ham  mock  as  well  as  upon 
high  pine  land.  The  disease  generally  continues  several 
years  before  all  the  limbs  become  affected.  Its  first  ap- 
pearance is  in  the  leaves,  during  the  day  they  look 
wilted  and  curled  up  as  though  the  tree  needed  water- 
ing. Next  morning  they  look  fresh  until  the  middle  of 
the  day  ;  gradually  the  outside  limbs  begin  to  die  and 
when  the  tree  becomes  badly  diseased,  the  growth  of  the 
fruit  is  arrested.  The  next  year  the  tree  may  be  cov> 
ered  with  a  heavy  crop  of  blooms,  which  fall  off,  and 
the  top  of  the  tree  dies.  I  dug  up  one  tree  twenty-three 
years  old  that  had  lost  all  the  top,  and  made  a  careful 
examination  of  the  roots,  they  appeared  to  be  perfectly 
sound.  This  tree  was  transplanted  into  new  ground 
more  than  two  years  ago,  and  now  has  a  new  top  ap- 
parently free  from  disease.  I  am  unable  to  say  what  the 
disease  is,  or  what  causes  it.  It  is  found  upon  trees 
planted  upon  ground  naturally  rich,  and  on  those  on 
fair  pine  land.  The  only  effectual  remedy  that  I  have 
found  is  to  remove  every  limb  that  shows  the  least  ap- 
pearance of  disease.  When  this  is  done,  the  trunk  puts 
out  healthy,  sound  shoots  which  make  a  rapid  growth." 
"Gum  Disease"  or  "Bleeding." — This  is  an  ex- 
udation of  sap  from  the  trunk  or  main  branches  of  the 
tree,  spreading  over  the  bark  like  a  coat  of  varnish, 
hardening  into  gum,  killing  the  bark  and  diseasing 
the  wood  beneath.  If  not  checked,  it  eventually  girdles 
and  destroys  the  branch  or  tree.  To  stop  this,  cut  an 
incision  through  the  bark  and  new  wood  completely 
around  and  a  little  beyond  the  spot  affected,  which  can 
be  distinguished  by  the  discoloration  of  the  bark ;  then 
carefully  remove  the  bark  and  diseased  wood  within  the 
limits  of  the  incision,  and  cover  the  wound  with  wax, 
gum  shellac,  or  mud.  This  sometimes  makes  an  ugly 
wound,  but  it  will  heal  over  in  time  and  is  the  only  way 


84  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

to  save  the  tree.  From  the  fact  that  there  is  an  exuda- 
tion of  sap  in  both,  gum  disease  and  die-back  are  some- 
times confounded ;  there  is,  however,  no  connection  be- 
tween the  two.  The  former  seems  to  resemble  in  some 
particulars  a  disease  called  "  gamma"  which  is  described 
by  General  Sauford  in  his  essay  on  "  Orange  Growing 
in  Southern  Europe." 

Foot-rot. — Another  disease  called  foot-rot  is  enum- 
erated by  some  authorities.  "  The  symptoms  are  the 
decaying  and  sloughing  of  the  bark  around  the  crown 
and  tap-roots  of  the  tree."  It  is  supposed  to  be  caused 
by  the  fermenting  of  the  sap  in  the  parts  affected,  occa- 
sioned by  contact  with  fermenting  manures  or  stagnant 
water;  if  this  be  true,  it  is  not,  strictly  speaking,  a 
disease,  but  simply  a  decay  of  the  parts,  owing  to  their 
being  surrounded  by  an  uncongenial  element. 

The  last  three  diseases  enumerated,  namely:  limb 
blight,  gum  disease,  and  foot-rot,  need  give  the  orange 
growers  of  Florida  no  uneasiness,  as  they  are  of  rare  oc- 
currence and  seldom  or  never  affect  healthy,  vigorous 
trees  which  receive  the  proper  treatment. 

Smut  or  Black  Rust. — The  sooty  appearance  com- 
monly called  smut  or  black  rust,  sometimes  found  upon 
the  fruit  and  foliage  of  the  orange  tree  is  not  a  disease 
but  a  fungus.  If  the  trees  are  kept  in  good  condition 
by  thorough  drainage,  proper  culture,  and  moderate 
manuring  ;  and  a  weak  alkaline  solution,  such  as  potash, 
soda,  or  ammonia,  is  applied  where  the  smut  shows  itself, 
it  will  speedily  disappear. 

The  trunks  and  main  branches  should  also  be  kept 
free  from  moss  or  scurf  by  occasional  washings  with 
strong  soap-suds  or  a  weak  alkaline  solution. 


CHAPTER    XV 


INSECTS. 

'CALE  INSECTS.— The  most  formidable  in- 
sect enemy  of  the  orange  family  is  the  scale  in- 
sect. There  are  many  species.  In  "  Orange 
Insects,"  by  Wm.  H.  Ashniead,  and  "  Report 
of  Scale  Insects  of  the  Orange,"  by  H.  G.  Hubbard, 
Special  Agent  of  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture,  six 
species  are  enumerated  as  found  upon  the  orange  trees 
of  Florida.  The  majority  of  these  are  rarely  seen,  the 
common  Long  Scale  being  most  destructive  and  wide 
spread.  They  propagate  very  rapidly,  and  were  they 
not  preyed  upon  by  other  insects  their  ravages  would  be 
far  more  extended  and  disastnjus.  Mr.  Ashmead  men- 
tions no  less  than  eleven  insect  enemies  of  the  scale,  and 
there  are  doubtless  others.  These  beneficial  insects 
make  their  appearance  as  soon  as  the  scale  shows  itself 
to  any  considerable  extent.  Some  lurk  beneath  deserted 
scales,  others  deposit  their  eggs  beneath  the  scales,  their 
young  feeding  upon  and  destroying  them  ;  and  thus  in 
one  way  or  another  these  parisites  wage  persistent  and 
effectual  warfare,  which  usually  prevents  the  scale  from 
spreading  to  an  injurious  extent.  Occasionally,  how- 
ever, the  scale  outstrips  its  enemies  for  a  time,  and  if 
the  trees  are  not  vigorous,  or  are  so  small  that  their 
limited  foliage  is  soon  covered  by  the  scale,  they  are 
very  liable  to  succumb  if  measures  are  not  taken  for 


86  MANVILLE'.S  TREATISE  ON 

their  eraclicati(jn  ;  but  strong  growing  trees  with  abund- 
ance of  wood  are  seldom  materially  injured. 

The  newly  hatched  larvie  have  legs,  move  about  the 
tree  and  are  easily  killed  by  mild  insecticides  ;  they  soon 
insert  their  beaks,  become  stationary,  shed  their  legs, 
and  exude  the  scale  which  covers  them  ;  later,  eggs  are 
deposited  and  hatched  beneath  the  fully  formed  scales. 
These  successive  stages  of  development  have  been  termed 
respectively  periods  of  migration,  g7-owthand  incubatiov. 
The  insects  are  more  difficult  to  destroy  after  the  scale 
begins  to  form,  becoming  invulnerable  with  age,  the 
eggs  being  unaffected  by  ordinary  applications. 

It  has  been  thought  that  excessive  cold  in  winter  de- 
stroys the  scale.  This  has,  however,  no  other  effect 
than  to  delay  the  hatching  of  the  eggs  until  warm 
weather,  when,  appearing  simultaneously,  they  seem 
rather  to  have  been  increased  by  the  cold. 

There  are  generally  three  broods  during  the  year,  the 
largest  number  hatching  during  the  months  of  March 
and  April,  June  and  July,  and  September  and  October. 
As  the  insects  are  most  easily  killed  in  the  migratory 
stage,  and  most  difficult  to  destroy  during  the  period  of  in- 
cubation, washes  are  most  effectual,  applied  during  the 
above  months  and  least  effective  when  a  majoiity  of  the 
scales  are  filled  with  eggs,  or  during  February,  May, 
August  and  the  winter  months  from  November  to  Jan- 
uary. If  the  broods  were  clearly  defined  and  the  eggs 
hatched  simultaneously,  it  would  be  an  easy  matter  to 
eradicate  the  scale.  Unfortunately,  though,  the  broods 
hatched  are  more  numerous  during  the  months  indicated 
above,  they  breed  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  continuous- 
ly throughout  the  year.  For  this  reason,  whale  oil  soap, 
tobacco  concoctions,  and  the  numerous  alkaline  washes 
generally  recommended,  fail  to  give  entire  satisfaction. 
Although   they   destroy    the    young    larvae,    they    do 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  87 

not  entirely  destroy  the  mature  scales,  and  have  no 
effect  upon  the  eggs.  Mr.  Hubbard,  in  his  experiments 
as  special  agent  of  the  Agricultural  Department,  found 
lye  to  be  entirely  without  effect  upon  this  insect.  A 
very  strong  solution  of  whale  oil  soap  failed  to  destroy 
the  eggs.  Oil  of  creosote,  bisulphide  of  carbon,  sulphuric 
acid,  and  sulphate  of  iron  were  all  more  or  less  injurious 
to  the  trees.  Of  all  the  preparations  tried,  he  found 
kerosene  oil  to  be  the  most  effective,  as  well  as  the  least 
injurious  and  expensive.  Kerosene  has  long  been  known 
to  the  orange  grower  of  Florida  as  a  powerful  insecti- 
cide; but  its  use,  either  pure  or  mixed  with  water,  es- 
pecially in  inexperienced  hands,  is  liable  to  damage  the 
trees  more  or  less.  Mr.  H.  mixed  it  with  milk,  in  which 
form  he  found  it  to  be  quite  as  effective  as  the  pure  oil 
and  entirely  harmless  to  the  tree.  This  kerosene  emul- 
sion, now  in  common  use,  is  perhaps  the  best  insect  wash 
we  have.  Mr.  Hubbard  gives  the  following  instructions 
for  its  preparation  and  application  in  his  report : 

"As  the  result  of  numerous  experiments,  I  would 
recommend  an  emulsion  consisting  of  refined  kerosene  two 
parts ;  fresh,  or  preferably  sour,  cow's  milk,  one  part  (per- 
centage of  oil,  661.)  Where  cow's  milk  is  not  easily 
obtained,  as  in  many  parts  of  this  State,  it  may  be  re- 
placed by  an  equivalent  of  condensed  milk  (Eagle 
brand)  diluted  with  water  in  the  proportion  one  to  two. 
As  the  cans  of  condensed  milk  usually  sold  in  the  stores 
contain  exactly  12  fluid  ounces  (three-quarters  pint), 
the  following  receipt  will  be  found  a  convenient  one  : 

Kerosene 1  gallon  =8  pints       =64  per  cent. 

Condensed  milk 2  cans     =U  ''        )  ^gg         ^^^^^^ 

Water 4  cans     =3     "       j  ^ 

"  Mix  thoroughly  the  condensed  milk  and  water  before 
adding  the  oil ;  churn  with  the  Aquapult  pump  until  the 
whole  solidifies  and   forms  an    ivory-white,   glistening 


88  MANVILLE'.S  TREATISE  ON 

butter  as  thick  as  ordinary  butter  at  a  temperature  of 
75°  F.  If  the  temperature  of  air  falls  below  70°,  warm 
the  diluted  milk  to  blood  heat  before  adding  the  oil. 

"  In  applications  for  scale  insects,  the  kerosene  butter 
should  be  diluted  with  water  from  12  to  16  times,  or  one 
pint  of  butter  to  one  and  a  half  gallons  (for  Chaff  Scale) ; 
one  pint  of  butter  to  two  gallons  (for  Long  vScale).  The 
diluted  wash  resembles  fresh  milk,  and  if  allowed  to 
stand,  in  two  or  three  hours  the  emulsion  rises,  as  a  cream, 
to  the  surface.  The  butter  should  therefore  be  diluted 
only  as  needed  for  immediate  use,  and  the  mixture 
should  be  stirred  from  time  to  time. 

"  A  wash  prepared  in  accordance  with  the  above  direc- 
tions will  kill  with  certainty  all  the  coccids  and  their 
eggs  under  scales  with  which  it  can  be  brought  into 
direct  contact.  No  preparation  known  to  me  will,  how- 
ever, remove  the  scales  themselves  from  the  tree,  or  in 
any  way  reveal  to  the  unassisted  eye  the  condition  of 
the  insects  within.  This  can  be  ascertained  only  by 
microscopic  examination  of  detached  scales.  Time  alone 
and  the  condition  of  the  tree  itself,  will  indicate  the  re- 
sult of  an  application.  Kerosene,  it  is  true  loosens  the 
scales  from  the  bark,  so  that  for  a  time  they  are  readily 
brushed  off,  but  they  afterwards  become  more  firmly 
adherent,  and  are  very  gradually  removed  by  the  action 
of  the  weather. 

"  Upon  trees  thickly  infested,  a  large  proportion  of  the 
scales  are  so  completely  covered  up  by  the  overlapping 
of  the  other  scales,  or  the  webbing  together  of  leaves  by 
spiders  and  other  insects,  that  the  wash  cannot  be 
brought  into  direct  contact  with  them,  and  they  are  only 
reached,  if  at  all,  by  the  penetrating  action  of  the  oil. 
This  takes  place  gradually,  and  the  number  of  bark-lice 
killed,  increases  for  some  time  after  an  application, 
reaching  the  maximum   in   the  case  of  kerosene  about 


ORANGE  CULTURE,  89 

the  fifth  day.  In  long  scale  the  oil  penetrates  the 
outer  end,  killing  first  the  eggs  at  the  broad  and  thin 
outer  end,  but  its  action  is  gradually  exhausted  and 
several  pairs  of  eggs  in  the  middle  of  the  scale  are  often 
left  alive.  It  is,  therefore,  impossible,  in  a  single  appli- 
cation, to  destroy  every  scale  upon  an  orange  tree.  This 
can,  however,  be  accomplished  by  making  two  or  three 
applications  at  intervals  of  four  or  five  weeks.  The 
mother  insects  being  nearly  or  quite  all  killed  by  the 
first  treatment,  and  the  surviving  eggs  having  in  the  in- 
terval all  hatched,  a  second  application,  if  thorough, 
will  clear  the  tree. 

"  The  great  difiiculty  experienced  in  reaching  every 
part  of  the  tree  renders  it  absolutely  necessary  that  any 
liquid  used  should  be  applied  in  fine  spray  and  with 
considerable  force.  An  ordinary  garden  syringe  does 
not  accomplish  this  and  can  never  be  used  satisfactorily 
against  scale  insects. 

"  The  most  effective  instrument  known  to  me  is  the 
Aquapult  force  pump.  This  throws  a  constant  stream 
of  moderately  fine  spray  with  such  force  that  the  fluid 
is  driven  into  close  contact  with  the  bark,  and  on  strik- 
ing the  leaves  and  branches  is  dashed  into  fine  mist 
which  envelops  the  tree  and  wets  every  leaf.  The  tree 
should  always  be  sprayed  from  each  of  four  sides,  and 
rather  more  liquid  should  be  used  than  seems  necessary 
to  drench  every  portion. 

"  Although  I  have  thought  it^advisable  to  recommend 
several  applications,  a  single  very  thorough  spraying 
with  a  good  force  pump  will,  in  most  instances,  prove 
entirely  effectual  in  clearing  the  tree,  since,  if  only  an 
occasional  egg  or  coccid  escapes,  the  great  army  of  par- 
asites and  enemies  will  be  almost  sure  to  complete  the 
work." 

Published  statements  regarding  the  scale  are  often 


90  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

more  alarming  than  the  facts  warrant.  The  natural 
checks  upon  their  increase  are  usually  sufficient  to  pre- 
vent their  spreading  to  an  injurious  extent.  Trees 
diseased  or  stunted  from  improper  location  or  bad  treat- 
ment are,  it  is  true,  liable  to  serious  attack,  but  trees  in 
this  condition  are  liable  to  be  affected  by  any  or  all  of 
the  maladies  and  ailments  to  which  the  trees  are  sub- 
ject. In  dealing  with  this  pest  it  may  be  laid  down  as 
a  rule  that  healthy  vigorous  trees  are  seldom  or  never  seri- 
onsly  attacked.  The  best  and  only  way  to  prevent  their 
attacks,  and  an  efficient  means  of  checking  their  rava- 
ges, is  such  thorough  cultivation  as  will  keep  the  trees 
in  thrifty  growing  condition.  In  fact,  the  application 
of  washes  to  remove  the  insect  will  avail  little  unless 
the  trees  are  kept  in  this  condition,  they  may,  it  is  true, 
be  removed  for  the  time  being,  but  the  conditions  favor- 
ing their  development  are  still  present  and  they  will  re- 
turn with  increased  destructiveness.  While  it  is  useless  to 
depend  solely  upon  washes  to  keep  the  trees  free  from  in- 
sects, it  is  unwise  to  rely  entirely,  as  some  have  done,  upon 
culture  and  fertilization  to  accomplish  this  result.  The 
latter  is  the  best  possible  way  to  prevent  the  attacks  of 
scale  in  the  first  instance,  but  where  they  are  already 
established  upon  the  tree,  both  agencies  should  be  used,  the 
one  to  remove  the  insects  and  give  the  tree  a  chance  to 
recover,  and  the  other  to  stimulate  a  more  active,  vigor- 
ous growth. 

The  Mealy  Bug. — This  is  another  insect  of  the  same 
genus  as  the  scale,  though  diflfering  from  it  very  much 
in  appearance.  It  has  received  its  name  from  the  mealy 
substance  which  covers  its  body  ;  its  eggs  are  laid  be- 
neath a  cottony-like  substance  secreted  by  the  female, 
which  gives  the  branch  affected  the  appearance  of  being 
covered  with  barnacles.  Although  in  injurious  effects 
they  rank  next  to  the  scale,  they  are  not  nearly  so  damag- 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  ©1 

ing  to  the  tree,  and  are  easily  destroyed  by  the  methods 
employed  to  eradicate  the  scale. 

Other  Insects. — Although,  with  the  possible  excep- 
tion of  the  rust  mite,  the  scale  and  the  mealy  bug  are 
by  far  the  most  serious  insect  enemies  with  which  the 
orange  grower  has  to  contend,  there  are  other  insects 
which  feed  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  during  some  periods 
of  their  existence  upon  the  foliage  of  the  orange  tree ;  of 
these,  Mr.  Ashmead  enumerates  the  following,  viz: 
Leaf-Footed  Plant  Bug,  Orange  Butterfly  and  Orange 
Dog,  Lance  Rustic  Moth,  Woolly  Bear  or  Stinging 
Caterpillar,  Angular  Winged  Katydid,  Lubber  Grass- 
hopper, Large  Bluish  White  Weevil,  Small  Bluish 
White  Weevil,  and  Orange  Aphis.  These  feed  mainly 
upon  the  new  growth,  and  where  the  tree  has  but  little 
foliage,  or  has  been  recently  budded  and  is  just  starting, 
they  are  sometimes  very  troublesome.  Their  ravages 
are,  however,  so  comparatively  limited  they  can  scarcely 
be  considered  serious ;  they  are  annoying  rather  than 
alarming  in  their  character.  The  weevils  can  be  re- 
moved by  gently  shaking  the  tree,  catching  them  upon 
a  sheet  spread  beneath  for  the  purpose.  The  aphis  or 
black  plant  louse  is  destroyed  by  applications  of  pow- 
dered sulphur  or  ordinary  insect  washes.  The  other  in- 
sects enumerated  must  be  destroyed  by  hand. 

The  borer  found  in  the  decaying  wood  of  the  orange 
tree  sometimes  extends  its  operations  into  parts  apparent- 
ly sound.  It  never  attacks  the  growing  wood  unless 
in  close  proximity  to  decayed  parts.  The  sure  preven- 
tive is  to  keep  the  tree  free  from  dead  or  decaying 
wood,  and  the  only  remedy  is  to  dig  out  and  remove 
the  intruder. 

The  orange,  in  common  with  other  fruit  trees,  is  some- 
times girdled  by  the  wood  louse  or  white  ant.  Like 
the  above,  they  seldom  attack  growing  wood  unless  en- 


92  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

couraged  by  the  proximity  of  decayed  wood.  Trees  set 
too  deep  are  much  more  liable  to  attack  than  where  the 
brace  roots  protrude  above  the  ground  in  the  proper 
manner.  If  the  ground  above  the  collar  is  kept  clean 
and  free  from  decayed  matter,  and  where  the  trees  are 
set  too  deep,  if  the  earth  be  removed  to  expose  the  roots 
there  will  be  no  trouble  from  this  source. 

The  Rust  Mite. — This  chapter  would  be  incomplete 
without  some  mention  of  the  little  mite  which  causes  the 
rust  so  often  found  upon  the  fruit.  Although  the  indi- 
vidual insects  are  not  visible  to  the  naked  eye,  large 
numbers  of  them  give  the  fruit  the  appearan6e  of  being 
covered  with  fine  dust.  The  discoloration  of  the  fruit 
follows  the  appearance  of  the  insect.  They  puncture 
the  oil  cells  in  the  rind  of  the  fruit  and  the  exudation 
and  oxidization  of  the  oil  upon  the  surface  produces  the 
rust.  The  earlier  in  the  season  the  mites  appear,  the 
darker  will  be  the  color  of  the  rust.  The  rust  does  not 
damage  the  fruit,  but  as  it  injures  the  appearance  of  the 
exterior,  depreciates  its  price  in  market.  The  rust  is  an 
advantage  in  one  particular,  it  toughens  and  hardens 
the  rind  so  that  it  will  keep  for  a  great  length  of  time. 
The  mites  are  said  to  be  easily  killed  by  any  of  the  in- 
secticides used  to  destroy  the  scale.  But  as  they  are 
wide-spread  and  breed  very  rapidly,  it  would  be  too  ex- 
pensive and  laborious  to  prevent  their  ravages  in  this 
way.  A  practical  and  efficient  method  for  their  exter- 
mination remains  to  be  devised. 


CHAPTER    XV L 


MARKETING   THE   CROP. 


>^ITHIN  the  past  decade,  facilities  for  shipping 
and  methods  of  preparing  the  Florida  orange 
crops  for  market,  have  greatly  improved. 
The  comparatively  small  crop  of  ten  years 
ago  was  put  up  with  little  care  or  system  in  packages 
of  the  most  nondescript  character  and  forwarded  to 
commission  merchants  unknown  to  the  grower  and 
whose  dealings  were  often  questionable.  Freight  rates 
were  high  and  time  in  transit  uncertain.  The  grower 
can  now  dispose  of  his  crop  in  various  ways.  He  can 
sell  the  fruit  outright,  either  upon  the  tree,  delivered  in 
the  grove,  or  at  the  purchaser's  packing  house.  Or  he 
can  consign  his  fruit  to  reliable  commission  merchants 
in  the  principal  towns  of  the  State,  or  any  of  the  larger 
cities  of  the  country  North  or  West.  He  can  pack  it 
himself  or  he  can  have  it  done  at  a  reasonable  price  at 
the  principal  shipping  points  in  the  State.  The  fruit  is 
transported  by  various  railroad  and  steamship  lines  in 
quick  time  and  at  low  rates  to  all  parts  of  the  country. 
The  shipping  season  begins  in  September  and  October 
with  the  Egg  and  Oblong  varieties,  and  closes  late  in 
spring  with  the  last  of  Hart's  Late  variety,  the  bulk  of 
the  crop  at  present  being  shipped  between  the  fifteenth 
of  November  and  the  fifteenth  of  March.  The  early 
and  late  fruit  bring  the  best  returns. 

To  secure  the  best  prices,  the  fruit  must  not  only  be 


94  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

of  superior  quality  but  must  be  tastefully  and  carefully 
packed  according  to  the  established  standard.  As  a 
large  portion  of  the  crop  is  prepared  for  market  and 
shipped  by  the  growers,  the  writer  has  endeavored  to 
give  below  some  hints  as  to  the  best  methods  of  gather- 
ing, packing,  etc. 

Drjing  or  Packing- House. — A  drying  or  packing- 
house should  be  built  in  which  to  cure  and  pack  the 
fruit.  It  should  be  constructed  freely  to  admit  light 
and  air,  as  well  as  to  close  securely  against  storms  and  in- 
clement weather.  The  plan  formerly  followed  of  placing 
the  fruit  in  bins  or  piles  and  allowing  it  to  go  through  a 
sweat  is  no  longer  practiced  by  the  best  packers.  It  in- 
jures rather  than  toughens  the  rinds,  rendering  the  fruit 
more  liable  to  decay  in  transit.  Shelves  or  trays  should 
be  constructed  to  receive  the  fruit,  upon  which  it  can  be 
spread  to  dry.  A  very  convenient  way  is  to  arrange 
the  shelves  around  the  sides  of  the  drying-room,  they  can 
be  placed  about  one  foot  apart  from  the  floor  to  a  con- 
venient height,  and  should  be  about  two  and  a  half  feet 
wide.  They  should  be  made  of  slats,  say  two  inches 
wide,  placed  about  an  inch  and  a  half  apart  with  the 
corners  rounded  so  as  not  to  mar  the  fruit.  The  slats 
should  belaid  transversely,  inclining  slightly  forward  to 
keep  the  fruit  constantly  within  reach,  the  latter  being 
prevented  from  rolling  off  by  strips  nailed  across  the 
front  of  the  shelves  just  above  the  slats.  Tables,  bins, 
etc.,  to  facilitate  wrapping  and  packing  can  be  arranged 
as  seems  most  convenient.  When  warm  days  succeed 
cool  nights,  which  is  apt  to  be  the  case  during  the  ship- 
ping season,  the  fruit  remaining  for  some  time  during 
the  early  part  of  the  day  at  a  lower  temperature  than 
the  atmosphere,  collects  moisture  to  such  an  extent  as  to 
interfere  materially  with  the  operations  of  wrapping  and 
packing.     For  this  reason,  as  well  as  to  facilitate  the 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  95 

drying  of  the  fruit  and  the  comfort  of  the  ©perator,  an 
even  temperature  should  be  maintained  in  the  drying- 
house  if  possible. 

Gathering. — The  fruit  should  be  gathered  upon  a 
clear,  dry  day.  As  the  stem  adheres  to  the  rind,  the 
fruit  should  be  cut,  not  pulled,  from  the  trees.  Even 
late  in  the  season,  when  the  fruit  can  be  separated 
readily  from  the  stem  without  injilry,  it  is  better  to 
cut  it,  as  the  cut  stem  adhering  to  the  fruit  is 
a  mark  by  which  selected  fruit  is  distinguished  in 
market  from  "  drops,"  wind  falls  and  second  rate 
fruit  generally.  When  cut,  the  fruit  is  usually  placed 
in  sacks  hung  to  the  picker's  side,  from  which  the  fruit 
is  laid  in  boxes  to  be  conveyed  to  the  drying  house. 
When  first  gathered  from  the  tree,  the  rind  is  full  of 
water,  the  least  scratch  or  thump  producing  an  abra- 
sion and  causing  decay.  For  this  reason,  the  fruit  from 
the  trees  to  the  drying-house  shelves  must  be  handled 
with  the  utmost  care — as  it  is  put  by  a  very  successful 
shipper,  "just  as  you  would  handle  eggs." 

Curing. — To  toughen  the  rind  of  the  fruit  so  that  it 
will  stand  the  handling  and  pressure  required  to  pack 
securely  so  that  it  will  not  shrink  and  loosen  in  the 
boxes  after  it  has  been  packed,  it  is  necessary  to  cure  or 
dry  the  fruit.  This  serves  also  to  allow  time  for  any 
defect  which  would  cause  decay  to  develop,  so  as  to  be 
easily  detected  and  the  fruit  thus  injured  rejected. 
When  the  fruit  is  received  from  the  grove  it  should  be 
spread  upon  the  shelves  not  more  than  two  or  three 
layers  deep,  in  order  that  the  air  may  have  free  access 
to  the  fruit.  The  time  required  to  evaporate  the  water 
from  the  rind  varies  from  twenty-four  hours  to  several 
days  according  to  the  maturity  of  the  fruit  and  the  con- 
dition of  the  weather,  and  can  easily  be  determined 
with  the  aid  of  a  little  experience.     After  it  has  been 


96  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

dried,  the  rind  is  tough  and  yielding  as  rubber,  and  the 
fruit  will  stand  considerable  pressure  without  injury. 

Sorting. — From  the  drying  shelves  the  fruit  is  sorted. 
Fruit  that  is  cut,  plugged,  thorned,  or  bruised  should  be 
thrown  out  and  the  remainder  sorted  into  two  or  three 
grades  according  to  quality.  While  shipping,  all  the 
decayed  or  partly  decayed  fruit  should  be  carefully  re- 
moved from  the  drying  house,  as  contact  with  it  will 
cause  sound  fruit  to  decay.  When  the  crop  is  large 
enough  to  justify  it,  the  fruit  should  also  be  sized  to  se- 
cure uniformity  and  to  facilitate  packing.  A  simple 
device  for  sorting  the  fruit  is  easily  constructed  by 
placing  side  by  side  upon  a  frame  two  pieces  of  board 
six  or  eight  feet  long  elevated  at  one  end  so  as  to  lie  at 
an  incline  of  about  twenty-five  degrees.  The  inner 
edges  of  the  boards  should  be  rounded  so  as  not  to  in- 
jure the  fruit  and  should  be  placed  at  such  distance 
from  each  other  as  will  allow  the  smaller  sized  fruit  to 
fall  through  a  few  inches  from  the  upper  ends,  and  the 
larger  size  to  pass  between  as  it  approaches  the  bottom. 
Passing  through  cloth  funnels  or  pockets  fastened  upon 
the  under  side  of  the  inclined  pieces,  the  oranges  of  dif- 
ferent sizes  are  deposited  without  injury  in  boxes  placed 
beneath  for  their  reception.  In  this  way  the  fruit  can 
be  separated  into  as  many  sizes  as  is  desired.  From  the 
shelves  or  sizes  the  fruit  is  placed  in  shallow  raised  bins 
or  tables  arranged  conveniently  for 

Wrapping. — By  a  quick  motion  of  the  hands,  each 
fruit  is  enveloped  in  a  wrapping  of  manilla  paper.  The 
twist  which  holds  the  paper  in  place  should  cover  the 
stem,  to  prevent  its  pressing  too  hard  upon  the  fruit  next 
to  it,  and  to  enable  the  packer  to  arrange  it  uniformly. 

Packing. — The  standard  box  should  be  used,  size, 
12x12x27  inches  outside  measurement,  being  divided  by 
the  middle  partition  into  two  compartments,  each  con- 


,  ORANGE  CULTURE.  97 

tainiug  one  cubic  foot.  They  should  be  thoroughly 
seasoned,  and  if  they  have  already  contained  fruit,  should 
be  carefully  cleaued.  Green  boxes,  or  those  which  have 
contained  decaying  fruit,  often  cause  the  fruit  to  rot  on 
the  way  to  market.  Before  putting  in  the  fruit  the 
compartments  of  the  box  should  be  lined  with  paper  ex- 
tending over  the  top  enough  to  fold  over  the  fruit  when 
the  box  is  full.  Bright  colored  linings  set  off  the  box 
to  good  effect.  Paper  should  also  be  placed  between 
each  layer  of  fruit  in  the  box  to  give  elasticity  to  the 
whole  and  prevent  any  fruit  which  should  decay  from 
coming  into  contact  with  the  rest.  The  fruit  should  be 
placed  in  the  box  in  layers,  with  the  stem  end  down,  not 
only  should  the  layers  be  uniform  in  number  and  posi- 
tion, but  the  number  and  position  of  the  fruit  in  the 
layers  should  be  uniform  throughout  the  box.  The 
number  of  layei-s  and  of  fruit  in  the  several  layers  will 
of  course  vary  with  the  size  of  the  fruit,  but  a  little 
practice  will  enable  the  packer  to  arrange  each  size  sys- 
tematically. For  instance,  the  first  layer,  of  a  size  which 
will  run  one  hundred  and  twenty-eight  to  the  box, 
should  be  arranged  in  each  compartment  thus : 

o  o  o  o 

o  o  o  o 

o  o  o  o 

o  o  o  o 
The  fruit  in  the sucessive  layers  being  placed  one  upon 
another,  four  layers  or  sixty-four  fruit  filling  one  end  of 
the  box.     For  a  size  running  one  hundred  and  seventy- 
six  to  the  box,  the  first  layer  should  be  arranged  thus: 

o  o  o  o 
o  o  o 

o  o  o  o 
o  o  o 

o  o  o  o 
The  fruit  in  the  second  layer  being  pla<;ed  over  the 


98  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON  « 

interstices  of  the  first,  five  layers  alternately  of  eighteen 
and  seventeen,  or  eighty-eight  fruit  filling  the  end  of 
the  box.  In  this  way  a  system  of  layering  can  be  de- 
vised for  all  the  diflTerent  sizes.  The  fruit  should  be 
pressed  in  firmly,  and  when  the  box  is  full  should  come 
up  even  with  the  top,  or  extend  above  it  not  more  than  a 
quarter  of  an  inch.  The  paper  lining  is  then  folded  over 
the  fruit,  the  cover  tacked  on,  and  a  strong  hoop  is 
nailed  around  each  end  and  the  middle  of  the  box,  mak- 
ing all  secure.  On  each  end  of  the  box  should  be  neatly 
and  clearly  stenciled  the  number  and  grade  or  brand  of 
the  fruit  within,  the  name  of  the  consignor  and  con- 
signee, and  the  line  by  which  it  is  to  be  shipped.  This 
finishes  the  work. 

This  may  seem  to  be  taking  extra  and  unnecessary 
pains  with  the  fruit,  but  the  fact  is  that  packed  in  this 
manner  it  brings  considerable  more  per  box  and  finds 
readier  sale  than  that  which  is  hastily  or  less  attractively 
put  up. 


CHAPTER    XVII 


THE  LEMON,  LIME,  AND  OTHER  SPECIES  OF  THE  CITRUS. 

HE  LEMON. — Until  recently,  lemons  grown 
in  Florida,  have  been  regarded  as  to(i  large, 
thick  skinned  and  bitter-rind  for  profitable 
shipment.  The  last  few  years  have  demon- 
strated this  to  be  erroneous.  Heretofore,  comparatively 
unknown  in  market,  a  poor  opinion  was  formed  from 
the  inferior  quality  and  improper  preparation  of  the 
specimens  forwarded. 

The  cultivation  of  better  varieties  and  improved 
methods  of  preparing  the  fruit  for  market  has  changed 
this. 

The  fruit  is  now  in  demand,  sought  for  by  local  buyers 
and  consignees  in  Northern  markets,  and  commands  a 
price  equal  to  the  best  Florida  oranges,  and  much  greater 
than  imported  lemons.  As  a  result  of  this  favorable 
condition  of  market,  lemons  are  being  more  extensively 
planted.  The  lemon  is  a  stronger  grower  and  an  earlier 
and  more  prolific  bearer  than  the  orange.  Oranges  are 
essentially  a  luxury,  lemons  on  the  contrary  are  a  staple 
article  of  consumption  throughout  the  country,  the  de- 
mand being  steadier  and  the  price  less  fluctuating  than 
for  the  former  commodity.  For  this  reason  their  cul- 
ture promises  to  be  very  profitable  wherever  they  can 
be  grown  without  injury  from  frost.  Perhaps  there  is  no 
better  authority  upon  the  commercial  value  of  the  citrus 
fruits  than  Mr.  E.  Bean,  the  celebrated  orange-packer 


lOO  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

of  Jacksonville,  Florida.  This  gentleman,  who  has 
been  engaged  in  this  business  for  the  past  six  or  eight 
years,  has  probably  handled  more  oranges  than  any 
other  man  in  the  State  ;  the  shipments  from  his  packing- 
house amounting  to  many  hundred  boxes  per  week  during 
the  shipping  season.  For  some  time  he  has  been  experi- 
menting with  lemons.  The  results  of  these  experiments 
have  been  so  satisfactory  that  he  has  arranged  to  engage 
largely  in  packing  and  shipping  the  fruit,  and  has  also 
planted  a  lemon  grove  sixty  acres  in  extent.  The  Flori- 
da Dispatch  for  August  14th,  1882,  says  :  "  We  are  in- 
formed that  Mr.  E.  Bean  has  decided  to  put  in  a  curing- 
house  for  the  ripening  of  green  fruits.  We  announce 
this  with  great  pleasure,  as  it  will  furnish  a  home  mar- 
ket for  the  Florida  production  of  the  Sicily  lemon.  If 
the  lemons  are  left  to  ripen  on  the  tree,  they  grow  large 
and  coarse,  and  are  consequently  comparatively  value- 
less. Mr.  Bean  proposes  to  take  them,  when  they  have 
reached  a  certain'  size  and  state  of  maturity,  without 
reference  to  the  color."  The  lemon  will  not  stand  as 
much  cold  as  the  orange,  but  is  successfully  grown  as  far 
north  as  Putnam  County.  There  are  numberless  coarse 
and  inferior  sorts.  To  avoid  these,  as  is  the  case  with 
the  orange,  only  well-known  leading  varieties  should 
be  planted.  The  Sicily  (not  a  native  seedling,  but  the 
imported  fruit  of  commerce),  French's  seedling  (not  the 
so-called  French  lemon).  Lamb  and  Eureka,  have  been 
fruited  for  some  years  and  are  in  every  respect  superior, 
the  latter  three  being  fully  equal  to  the  imported  variety. 
The  characteristics  of  these  three  varieties  are  essentially 
the  same;  fruit  is  small,  with  smooth,  tough,  thin  skin, 
fine  juicy  pulp,  and  acid  devoid  of  bitter;  French's 
seedling  and,  Eureka  are  less  thorny  than  the  other 
two.  Bijou,  Genoa,  Imperial  and  some  other  recently 
imported  varieties  promise  well.     The  young  trees,  even 

■-■■     ^_^  hlBAhMY. 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  lOl 

of  the  better  sorts,  are  apt  to  produce  large  coarse  fruit, 
which  becomes  smaller  and  finer  as  the  trees  grow  older. 

As  important  as  it  is  to  have  the  best  varieties,  they 
will  avail  little  if  the  fruit  is  not  projDerly  prepared  be- 
fore shipment.  Proper  preparation  for  market  is  in 
fact  the  great  sine  qua  uon  in  lemon  culture,  and  to 
mismanagement  in  this  particular  is  to  be  attributed 
much  of  past  failure.  The  following  method  of  curing 
lemons  is  taken  from  the  Rev.  T.  W.  Moore's  excellent 
Treatise  and  Hand  Book  on  Orange  Culture  in  Florida, 
viz  :  "  My  method  of  preparing  for  market  is  to  gather 
the  fruit  when  about  one-third  larger  than  we  find  the 
Sicily  lemon  when  it  reaches  our  American  market. 
In  curing,  the  fruit  will  shrink  this  extra  third.  The 
fruit  is  gathered  in  latticed  boxes  holding  about  fifty 
lemons  each  and  only  two  layers  deep.  The  fruit  should 
be  cut  with  short  stems  and  so  handled  as  not  to  be 
bruised.  The  boxes  are  at  once  put  into  a  close  room, 
one  on  top  of  another,  but  forming  a  hollow  square.  If 
the  room  is  large,  cover  the  pile  of  boxes  with  a  cloth 
that  will  confine  the  sulphurous  gas  with  which  the 
fruit  is  be  treated.  Place  in  the  center  of  the  square, 
and  sufficiently  remote  from  the  boxes  not  to  heat  the 
fruit,  an  oven  of  live  coals.  Throw  on  the  burning 
coals  an  ounce  of  flowei's  of  sulphur,  and  fasten  down 
the  cloths.  If  the  room  is  small  and  tight,  the  cloth  is 
not  necessary.  Allow  the  fruit  to  remain  in  a  dark 
room  for  a  week,  then  expose  to  sunlight — the  direct 
rays  of  the  sun  a  part  of  the  day  is  best — until  the  skin 
is  yellow.  The  fruit  is  then  ready  for  market  or  to  be 
stored  for  future  use,  for  when  thus  treated,  it  can  be 
kept  for  an  indefinite  time." 

The  Lime. — Limes  are  always  in  demand  and  their 
culture  profitable.  They  are  rather  more  tender  than 
lemons  and  can  only  be  grown  safely  upon  a  large  scale 


102  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

in  the  southern  part  of  the  State,  or  further  north  in 
more  favorable  locations.  They  are  a  small  bushy  tree, 
and  when  planted  alone,  should  be  set  from  twelve  to 
fifteen  feet  apart.  A  very  good  plan  is  to  plant  them 
between  the  rows  of  orange  trees,  as  the  latter  grow 
much  larger  and  protect  them  from  the  cold.  The 
Florida  is  the  variety  most  generally  planted. 

Except  in  the  particulars  noted  above,  the  lemon  and 
the  lime  require  the  same  treatment  as  the  orange. 

Other  Species. — In  Europe  and  elsewhere,  other 
species  are  cultivated  for  profit — from  the  rind  of  the 
citron  the  preserved  citron  peel  of  commerce  is  manu- 
factured, the  bergamot  yields  the  fragrant  "  oil  of  berga- 
mot,"  and  various  preserves,  conserves,  essential  oils, 
and  perfumes  are  made  from  the  fruit,  foliage  and  flow- 
ers of  the  several  species.  In  time,  these  species  will 
doubtless  be  grown  and  these  articles  manufactured  in 
Florida,  but  at  present  the  orange,  lemon  and  lime  are 
the  only  species  that  are  grown  to  any  considerable 
extent  for  profit.  The  following,  however,  are  worthy 
of  cultivation  for  home  use  or  for  ornament,  viz:  The 
Citron,  for  preserving ;  the  Shaddock,  for  its  magnificent 
large  fruit  and  sub-acid  juice;  the  several  variegated 
varieties,  Citrus  Japonica,  Myrtle,  Otaheite,  Kumquat, 
and  other  ornamental  varieties. 


APPENDIX. 


CLASSIFICATION  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  SPECIES  AND 
VARIETIES  OF  THE  CITRUS  AS  KNOWN  IN  FLORIDA. 

The  characteristics  of  the  varieties  described  follow 
the  common  type  of  the  species,  except  in  the  particu- 
lars noted.  Those  marked  with  an  asterisk  (*)  are  best 
known  and  most  esteemed. 

The  Sweet  Orange,  {citrus  aurantium.) 

Trees  of  moderate  size  and  compact  form ;  branches 
thorny ;  foliage  dark  green  ;  leaves  oblong,  acute ;  leaf- 
stalks winged,  shoots  whitish,  flowers  white,  fruit  round, 
of  a  deep  yellow  color.  It  has  received  more  attention 
than  the  other  species,  hence  the  many  varieties. 

In  Europe  the  varieties  of  the  sweet  orange  are 
separated  into  two  divisions,  according  as  they  resemble 
the  orange  of  Portugal  or  the  China  orange.  The  former 
may  be  regarded  as  the  type  of  the  species,  and  is  the 
common  sweet  orange  of  Florida.  The  latter  is  dis- 
tinguished by  the  smooth,  thin  skin,  and  the  exceedingly 
sweet  and  tender  pulp  of  the  fruit ;  the  foliage  is  less 
dense  than  that  of  the  Portugal  orange,  the  leaves 
are  more  elliptical  and  acute,  and  the  branches  slender 
and  straggling.  The  Sweet  Seville  and  Egg  Orange  of 
Florida  are  examples  of  the  China  Orange  ;  the  Naval 
and  St.  Michael's  present  some  of  the  characteristics, 
and  may  perhaps  be  included  with  it. 


104  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

To  facilitate  selection  and  prevent  confusion,  the 
varieties  of  this  species  are  divided  into  five  arbitrary 
classes. 

CLASS  I. —  Varieties  Fruiting  Early  in  Season. 

Early  Oblong.* — Synonym  Thornless  Bell. — Fruit 
medium  size,  oblong,  skin  thick ;  lacking  the  sub-acid  of 
other  sorts.  Quality  fair.  Although  its  color  turns  little 
if  any  earlier  than  other  sorts,  its  juices  attain  perfec- 
tion in  September  and  October,  when  it  should  be 
marketed. 

Tree  bears  young  ;  prolific  ;  vigorous ;  not  as  large  as 
some.  Leaves  illiptical,  acute,  and  scattering  ;  branches 
slender  and  thornless.  Like  the  varieties  under  class 
III,  it  is  easily  distinguished  by  the  appearance  of  fruit 
and  foliage. 

Probably  originally  imported,  but  long  grown  in 
Florida. 

Egg. — Synonym  Beach's  No.  1. — A  sub-variety  of  the 
above,  which  it  resembles,  excepting  that  the  fruit  is 
smaller,  having  a  smoother  skin,  and  being  more  juicy, 

CLASS  II —  Varieties  Fruiting  Late  in  Season. 

TardlflF.  *  — Synonym  Hart's  Late. — Medium  sized, 
round,  skin  smooth  and  thin,  grain  fine,  with  a  brisk 
and  racy  flavor.  A  common  Florida  orange,  in  quality 
above  the  average.  Retains  its  juices  until  the  middle 
of  July,  or  even  later,  and  is  especially  valuable  on  this 
account. 

Tree  prolific,  a  strong  grower;  branches  thornless,  or 
nearly  so ;  foliage  somewhat  distinct. 

Native  seedling. 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  105 

CLASS  III. —  Varieties  Readily  Distinguished  by  the 
Appearance  of  Fruit  or  Foliage,  whose  Marked  Pecu- 
liarities are  Constant. 


Bell. — Large,  pear  or  bell-shaped  ;  skin  firm  ;  juicy. 
Tree  prolific,  a  strong  grower,  having  fewer  thorns  than 
some  varieties. 

Probably  imported,  but  long  grower  in  Florida. 

Du  Roi.* — Size  medium,  round,  skin  firm,  juicy. 
Quality  good.  Plainly  marked,  being  ribbed  like  a 
muskmelon. 

Tree  very  prolific,  vigorous  ;  few  thorns. 

Probably  imported,  though  long  grown  in  Florida, 

Charley   Brown. — Large,    very    much  flattened   at 
stem  and  blossom  ends.     Quality  said  to  be  good. 
Tree  thornless,  foliage  peculiar. 
Imported. 

Maltese  Blood. — Medium,  round  ;  pulp  of  a  blood- 
red  color.  This  appears  in  the  form  of  flakes  when  the 
fruit  begins  to  ripen,  which  gradually  increase  until  the 
entire  pulp  is  colored. 

Prolific;  strong  grower;  thornless;  foliage   peculiar. 

Imported. 

Navel.* — Synonyms,  Umbilical,  Bahia,  Emhiguo. — 
Large,  round ;  skin  smooth  ;  nearly  seedless ;  pulp 
melting  ;  in  quality  the  best  grown.  Bears  a  peculiar 
umbilical  formation  on  the  summit  or  blossom  end  of 
the  fruit. 

Tree  bears  young,  not  as  prolific  as  some  sorts  ;  thorn- 
less ;  foliage  peculiar. 

Imported. 


106  MANVIIiLE.S  TREATISE  ON 

St.  Michael's. — Medium-sized,  round,  thin-skinned, 
nearly  seedle!^s,  and  juicy.     Quality  good. 

Tree  bear?  young,  prolific  ;  few  thorns  ;  foliage  dis- 
tinct. 

Imported. 

St.   MichaePs    Egg. — Large,    oval,    thick-skinned, 
juicy,  but  not  rich.     Quality  fair. 
Tree  prolific  ;  few  thorns. 
Imported. 

MediteiTaiiean  Sweet."^ — Medium  sizp,  skin  smooth, 
pulp  melting.  Quality  best. 

Tree  thornless  and  bears  young  ;  foliage  peculiar. 
Imported. 

Sweet  Seville. — Synonyms,  Sugar  Sweet,  Golden 
Angel. — Small,  thin-skinned,  tender,  juicy,  very  sweet 
and  delicious. 

Tree  prolific,  vigorous,  somewhat  thorny. 

Native  seedling. 

CLASS  IV. — Leading  Varietiex  of  Superior  Excellence, 
Practically  Indidingahhahle,  mmtly  of  Native  Origin, 
hut  Including  some  Foreign  Varieties  Long  Groivn, 
and  Thoroughly  Tested  in  the  State.  This  Class  In- 
cludes  most  of  the  Best  Varieties  of  the  Justly  Celebra- 
ted Florida  Orange.  The  Characteristics  of  the  Sev- 
eral Varieties  Differ  Little  from  the  Common  Type. 

Arcadia. — Size  large  ;  fi)rm  somewhat  flattened  ;  skin 
smooth  ;  grain  coarse,  pulp  melting,  juice  slightly  sub- 
acid.   Quality  good. 

Tree  prolific,  vigorous,  somewhat  thorny. 

Native  seedling. 


ORANGK  CULTURE.  107 

Creole. — Large,  round,  firm  skin,  juicy.  Qiiiility 
good. 

Tree  prolific,  vigorous,  somewhat  thorny. 
Imported. 

Homosassa.* — -Size  about  medium,  somewhat  flat- 
tened, very  heavy,  color  bright ;  skin  very  smooth,  thin, 
tough  and  dense;  pulp  fine,  sweet,  and  juicy;  flavor 
full,  vinous  and  sprightly;  membrane  covering  seg- 
ments of  pulp  very  thin  and  small  in  quantity  ;  ripens 
very  early  and  keeps  and  carries  well.     Quality  best. 

Tree  prolific,  vigorous  and  very  thorny. 

J^ative  seedling. 

Nonpareil.* — Size  above  medium,  somewhat  flat- 
tened, color  ordinary,  grain  fine,  pulp  melting  and  ten- 
der, juice  sub-acid  and  vinous.     Quality  best. 

Tree  prolific,  vigorous  and  very  thorny. 

Native  seedling. 

Peerless.*  — Synonym,  Remberfs  Best.  —  Large  ; 
round  ;  color  light  clear  orange  ;  skin  smooth,  firm  and 
thin;  juicy;  juice  sub-acid;  flavor  delicious.  Quality 
best. 

Tree  prolific,  vigorous,  and  very  thorny. 

Native  seedling. 

Tahiti. — Large  size,  round,  pale  yellow,  skin  very 
thin,  grain  fine,  pulp  tender  and  melting,  juice  sub-acid. 
Quality  good. 

Tree  vigorous,  prolific,  and  very  thorny. 

Imported. 

Dlimmit. — Large,  bright,  juicy,  sweet,  sugary  ;  a 
first-class  orange,  except  the  skin  is  thin  and  tender, 
which  renders  it  difficult  to  ship. 

Native  seedling. 


108  MANVILLE'fs  TREATISE  ON 

HiggillS. — Medium,    fair ;    skin    smooth    and    thin  ; 
pulp  fine,  juicy,  sweet  and  excellent. 
Native  seedling. 

Osceola. — Size  large,  slightly  flattened,  skin  smooth 
and  glossy,  grain  coarse,  pulp  rather  melting,  juice 
sweet.     Quality  good. 

Tree  vigorous,  somewhat  thorny. 

Native  seedling. 

Beach's  No.  3. — Size  medium,  shape  flattened,  color 
light  orange,  pulp  tender,  juice  sub-acid.  Quality 
good. 

Tree  vigorous,  somewhat  thorny. 

Native  seedling. 

Excelsior. — Medium  sized,  round,  sweet,  delicious, 
slight  pine-apple  flavor.     Quality  good. 
Tree  vigorous,  few  thorns. 
Imported. 

Magnum  Boniim.*— Size  large  to  very  large  ;  flat- 
tened ;  color  light,  clear  orange ;  skin  smooth  and 
glossy  ;  grain  fine,  tender,  and  melting ;  fruit  heavy  and 
juicy  ;  juice  sweet,  rich,  and  vinous.     Quality  best. 

Tree  prolific,  vigorous,  and  very  thorny. 

Native  seedling. 

01(1    Viui. — Synonyms,    Beach's   No.    4    and   Buna 

Vista. — Size    above    medium,   slightly   flattened,    color 

dark  orange,  skin  rough,  grain  coarse,  pulp  melting, 

juice  sub-acid  and  remarkable  for  a  sprightly  vinous 

property.     Quality  good. 

Tree  prolific,  vigorous  and  somewhat  thorny. 
'    Native  seedling. 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  109 

Acis. — Large,  roundish  orate.     Quality  good. 

Tree  strong  growing. 

Imported. 

Dixon. — Fine  large  orange,  first-class,  good  shipper. 
Native  seedling. 

Spratt's  Harmon. — Excellent  every  way.     Said  to 
be  very  prolific. 
Native  seedling. 

Parson  Brown. — Large,  .sweet,  juicy,  fine.     Said  to 
be  excellent. 
Native  seedling. 

CLASS  V. — Imported  Varieties  not  yet  Thoroughly 
Tested  in  Florida.  The  Descriptions  are  Given  as  Re- 
ceived and  Cannot  he  Vouched  for. 

Botelha. — Said  to  be  superior,  with  thin  rind  and 
rich  pulp.  Apparently  differs  little  from  native  varie- 
ties. 

Exquisite. — A  thin  rinded,  rich  and  juicy  fruit. 

Sustain. — Large  and  remarkable  for  its  sweet  juices. 

Acapulco. — Recently  from  California.  Said  to  be 
large  and  fine.     A  strong  grower. 

Jaffa. — Recently  from  Syria,  bearing  the  name  of  a 
city  of  that  country.  Said  to  be  one  of  the  best  on  the 
Eastern  Mediterranean. 

Dulcissiina. — Synonym,  Dulcis.  Small,  very  sweet, 
generally  seedless  ;  prolific.     Well-known  in  Paris. 

Prata. — Synonym,  Silver  Orange.  Rind  pale  yellow 
and  thin,  flesh-pale,  flavor  piquant  and  delicious. 


no  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

White. — Large,  pale  yellow,  flesh-pale,  flavor  rich 
and  good. 

NicJiras^ua. — A  California  variety  recently  intro- 
duced, said  to  be  large  and  fine. 

Portugal. — -Recently  introduced  by  way  of  Cali- 
fornia, where  it  has  not  been  fruited  long  enough  to  de- 
termine its  quality.     Tree  vigoi-ous. 

Queen. — See  Portugal. 

Rio. — See  Portugal. 

THE  BITTER   ORANGE,   {Citmis  bigaridia.) 

The  Bigarade,  Seville,  or  Bitter  Orange,  is  distin- 
guished from  the  Sweet  Orange  by  the  lighter  color  of 
its  foliage,  spiny  branches,  and  broader  winged  leaf- 
stalks. Flowers  very  white  and  sweet-scented.  Fruit 
round,  rough,  of  a  dark  reddish  yellow  color,  filled  with 
a  sour  or  bitter  pulp.  It  is  the  hardiest  of  all  the 
species. 

Many  varieties  are  cultivated  in  Europe,  chiefly  for 
the  perfume  obtained  from  the  flowers. 

Sour.'^'^Large,  color  dark,  grain  coarse,  inner  rind 
bitter,  juice  acid.  Retains  its  perfection  through  the 
summer,  when  it  is  much  j)rized  for  its  refreshing  acid 
juice.     Used  also  i'nv  making  marmalade  and  conserves. 

The  tree  bears  young,  very  jjrolific,  vigorous ;  makes 
a  desirable  and  ornamental  shade  tree. 

Native  wild  orange  of  Florida. 

Bitter  Sweet.* — Medium  sized,  juice  sweet  and 
pleasant  when  separated  from  the  inner  bitter  rind. 
Used  in  summer  as  a  substitute  for  the  sweet  fruit. 

Tree  indistinguishable  from  the  above. 

Native  wild  oranye  of  Florida. 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  Ill 

Yaricgated. — Leaves  and  fruit  mottled  with  white, 
pale  straw  color,  and  several  shades  of  green.  Highly 
ornamental. 

(irOldeu  Variegated. — Leaves  mottled  with  a  rich 
golden  color.     Very  ornamental. 

Myrtle-Leaved. —  A  handsome  dwarf  tree,  with 
small,  dense,  dark  green,  glossy  leaves  ;  bearing  a  small 
flattened  fruit  of  little  use.  A  beautiful  shrub  for  orna- 
mental grounds. 

Citrus  Japoilica. — Synonym,  Dwarf  Orcuige.  An 
ornamental  dwarf  tree  resembling  the  sour  orange. 
Fruit  resembles  the  sour,  though  not  nearly  so  bitter, 
and  is  esteemed  for  preserving. 

Caimsa. — Foliage  very  peculiar.  Leaves  narrow  at 
the  base  and  widening  slightly  their  entire  length. 

The   Mandarin   Orange,  (C.   nob'dis.) 

It  is  regarded  by  some  botanists  as  a  distinct  species, 
and  by  others  as  a  marked  variety  of  the  Sweet  Orange. 
It  is  also  called  the  Tangierine  Orange. 

The  Mandarin,  or  Mandarin  Orange,  is  a  very  beau- 
tiful tree,  distinguished  by  its  small,  lanceolate  leaves ; 
slender,  flexible  branches;  dwarf  and  somewhat  formal 
habit  of  gi'owth,  and  the  aromatic  odor  of  the  fruit  and 
foliage.  The  flowers  are  white  and  smaller  than  those 
of  the  Sweet  Orange.  The  fruit  is  small,  flattened,  of  a 
deep  saffron  color,  with  loosely  adherent  rind.  It  is 
very  highly  esteemed  in  the  markets  of  Europe. 

China.* — Svnonym,  Willow-Leaved.  Small,  flattened, 
deep  yellow  color,  skin  thin,  skin  and  segments  loosely 
adherent,  flesh  dark  orange  color,  spicy  and  aromatic. 

Tree  dwarf,  leaves  young,  prolific,  vigorous  ;  willow- 
like foliage,  having  few  thorns. 


112  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

St.  Michael's. — Fruit  slightly  pear-shaped,  in  other 
respects  resembling  the  China. 

Bijou.* — Synonyms,  Moragne's  Tangierine,  Dancy's 
Tangierine.  Fruit  a  little  larger  than  the  China,  which 
it  resembles,  except  in  its  deep  crimson  color. 

Tree  unlike  the  other  varieties,  resembles  the  Sweet 
Orange  in  size  and  foliage,  though  it  retains  the  aroma 
peculiar  to  the  species,  thorny.  A  seedling  identical 
with  the  parent  tree  first  received  the  name  Bijou. 

Satsuma.* — The  fruit  is  medium  sized,  flattened, 
deep  orange  color,  smooth,  thin  skin,  which  is  sweet,  aro- 
matic and  easily  detached  from  the  pulp.  Color  of 
pulp  dark  orange ;  segments  part  freely ;  fine  grain, 
tender,  juicy,  sweet  and  delicious.  There  is  none  of 
that  peculiar  I'ank  odor  which  characterizes  most  other 
varieties  belonging  to  the  same  class  and  species. 

The  tree  is  thornless,  the  leaves  peculiarly  thick,  lan- 
ceolate, serrated  medium,  pitiole,  linear  ;  and  the  fruit 
is  seedless.     New  and  desirable. 

The  Lemon,    (C.  limonum.) 

Trees  of  straggling,  irregular  habit ;  foliage  light 
green  ;  leaf-stalks  wingless,  shoots  purple,  flowers  tinged 
with  violet  externally  ;  fruit  oblong,  pale  yellow,  with 
swollen  point,  and  acid  pulp. 

Bijou. — Very  small,  smooth,  thin  skinned,  juicy  ; 
acid  fine.     Foliage  distinct. 

Everbearing. — Quality  fair ;  bears  constantly,  and 
on  this  account,  very  desirable  for  home  use. 

Sicily.* — Size  medium ;  rind  sweet ;  skin  smooth, 
thin,  tough  and  dense  ;  membrane  covering  segments  of 
l)ulp  thin  and  small  in  quantity  ;  pulp  juicy  ;  acid  fine; 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  113 

quality   best.     Not  a  Florida  raised  seedling,  but  the 
genuine  imported  lemon  of  commerce. 

Bergamot. — Large,  rough,  flattened  ;  quality  fair  ; 
leaves  large  and  broadly  winged  ;  appearance  peculiar. 
Erroneously  introduced  under  the  name  of  Bijou. 

French's  Seedling.* — A  native  variety  fully  equal 
to  the  imported  Sicily,  which  it  closely  resembles.  Tree 
has  very  few  thorns. 

Eureka.* — Recently  introduced  from  California  ;  of 
medium  size,  with  sweet  rind  and  strong  acid.  Tree 
thornless ;  strong  grower  ;  early  and  prolific  bearer. 

Genoa. — Imported  by  way  of  California,  where  it  is 
esteemed  one  of  the  best.  Desci'iption  similar  to  Eu- 
reka. 

Lisbon. — Imported  by  way  of  California.  Said  to 
be  of  good  quality,  though  not  as  highly  esteemed  as 
the  foregoing. 

Imperial. — Imported  from  Europe  and  highly  rec- 
ommended. 

Lamb.* — A  native  variety  resembling  the  imported 

Sicily.     One  of  the  best. 

Villa  Francha. — Recently  imported  from  Europe 
and  highly  recommended. 

Willow-Leaved. — Recently  imported  i'rom  Europe. 
Said  to  be  superior.  Leaves  lanceolate  ;  branches  flexi- 
ble with  willow-like  appearance. 

Sweet. — Same  as  Dulcis  or  Sweet  Lime,  q.  v. 

Variegated. — Leaves  mottled  with  Avhite,  pale  straw 
color  and  several  shades  of  green  ;  fruit  said  to  be  su- 
perior.    Very  ornamental. 


114-  MANVrLDE'S  TREATISE  ON" 

The  Lime,  ( C.  limetta,) 

A  shrub,  with  small  ovate  leaves  and  spreading 
prickly  branches ;  flower  small  and  entirely  white,  fruit 
small,  roundish  pale  yellow,  with  a  slight  protuberance 
at  the  end. 

Florida.* — Medium  sized,  skin  thin  and  smooth,  acid 
juice  rich  and  abundant.     Best  for  general  culture. 

Sweet. — Synonym,  Dulcis.  Large,  thick  skinned ; 
pulpy;  juice  insipidly  sweet.  Valued  only  for  variety 
and  for  preserving.     Foliage  peculiar. 

Persian. — Imported.     Said  to  be  superior. 

The  Citron,  {C.medica.) 

An  irregular,  branching,  strong-shooting  tree,  with 
full  head  ;  shoots  purplish  ;  leaves  large,  thick,  oblong, 
wingless,  and  toothed  ;  flowers  tinged  with  violet  ex- 
ternally; fruit  very  large,  warted,  and  furrowed;  rind 
white,  fragrant,  and  very  thick  ;  pulp  sub-acid. 

Lemon.* — Very  large,  shape  like  the  lemon  ;  skin 
irregular  and  glossy  ;  inner  skin  thick,  spongy  and  aro- 
matic. 

The  Shaddock,    (C.  decumana.) 

A  strong-growing  tree,  with  thick  spiny  branches, 
distinguished  by  its  large  leaves  and  broadly-winged 
leaf-stalks.  Flowers  large  and  white.  Fruit  very  large, 
globular,  of  a  pale  yellow  color. 

Mammoth.* — Very  large ;  skin  smooth  and  glossy  ; 
rind  thick,  white,  spongy,  and  bitter ;  pulp  green, 
watery,  and  sub-acid. 

Blood. — Same  as  above,  with  blood-red  pulp. 


ORANGE  CULTURR  11.5 

PoniolO.* — Synonym,  Grape  Fruit.  It  i«  classed  by 
some  as  a  distinct  species,  (C  Pompebnouse.)  It  is  un- 
doubtedly a  variety  of  the  Shaddock, 

Size  small ;  skin  smooth  ;  color  pale  yellow ;  pulp 
sub-acid  and  refreshing, 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

The  following  do  not  belong  to  any  of  the  foregoing 
species. 

Bergamot. — Known  also  as  the  Berganiot  Orange  or 
Bergamot  Lemon,  probably  a  hybrid.  Fruit  pear 
shaped  ;  pale  yellow,  with  green  sub-acid ;  firm,  fragrant 
pulp ;  fruit  and  foliage  distinct.  Grown  in  Europe, 
where  the  fragrant  oil  of  Bergamot  is  obtained  from  the 
rind. 

Otaheite. — A  dwarf  variety,  bearing  an  abundance 
of  reddish  flowers,  and  small,  showy  fruit ;  sweet  and 
thin  skinned.  A  pretty  ornamental  shrub,  attracting 
considerable  attention  as  a  stock  upon  which  to  dwarf 
the  sweet  orange. 

Kumqiiat.* — A  small  species,  much  cultivated  in 
China  and  Japan.  The  plant  is  a  shrub,  sometimes  six 
feet  high,  but  in  cultivation  is  not  allowed  to  exceed  the 
height  of  a  gooseberry  bush.  The  fruit  is  oval,  about 
the  size  of  a  large  gooseberry  ;  the  rind  is  sweet  and  the 
juice  acid.  It  is  delicious  and  refreshing.  The  Chinese 
make  an  excellent  sweet-meat  by  preserving  it  in  sugar. 

Desimatus. — One  of  the  curiosities  of  the  Citrus. 
Foliage  peculiar ;  leaves  of  drooping  habit ;  has  the 
appearance  of  being  varnished  ;  no  two  leaves  alike  in 
shape  ;  fine  for  ornamental  grounds. 


lie  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

DWARFING    THE    ORANGE. 

The  Florida  Dispatch,  for  May  29,  1882,  contained 
the  following  editorial : 

BEARING,    DWARF    ORANGE   TREES. 

A  few  days  since,  we  accepted  the  kind  invitation  of 
our  friend,  Dr.  C.  J.  Kenworthy,  of  this  city — a  gentle- 
man very  widely  and  well-known  for  his  enthusiastic 
and  persevering  devotion  to  all  matters  of  scientific  and 
practical  value  and  interest — and  visited  his  garden, 
especially  to  see  the  very  beautiful  and  rare  collection  of 
Dwarf  Orange  trees,  which  he  has  in  full  bearing. 

These  niinature  trees,  ranging  from  two  and  a  half  to 
four  and  five  feet  high,  are  mostly  of  perfect  form ; 
branching  near  the  ground,  limbed  out  symmetrically, 
and  presenting,  generally,  the  shape  of  an  obtuse  cone — 
the  true  form  for  all  fruit  trees,  in  this  climate. 

It  is  about  twenty-two  (22)  months  since  these  little 
bearing  trees  were  budded  ;  and  they  are  now  carrying 
each,  from  ten,  fifteen  and  twenty  up  to  forty  beautiful 
oranges,  larger  and  farther  advanced  toward  maturity 
than  those  of  the  same  varieties  on  older  standard  trees 
overhead !  The  foliage  on  these  Lilliputians  of  the 
citrus  family  is  also  larger,  thicker  and  darker  in  color 
than  that  of  the  ordinary  sweet  orange  trees  growing 
around  them  ;  and  they  present  an  air  of  thriftiness  and 
vigor  which  we  were  at  first  disposed  to  refer  to  the 
liberal  use  of  fertilizers  and  extra  care  and  cultivation. 
Dr.  K.  assured  us,  however,  that  such  was  not  the  fact ; 
and  stated  that  all  his  trees — dwarfs  and  standards — 
have  been  treated  precisely  alike,  and  that  there  are  no 
favored,  forced,  or  pampered  ones  among  them.  And 
now  the  reader  will  naturally  ask — "  cui  bono  f  and 
"  How  are  these  little,  precocious  trees  produced  ?"     We 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  117 

shall  answer  the  last  question  first,  and  tell  how  the 
Doctor  propagates  his  early-bearing  Dwarfs : 

Most  green-house  men,  and  a  few  "  outsiders,"  know 
a  little,  pendulous,  tortuous  and  drooping  pot-plant  of 
the  orange  family,  called  the  Otaheite.  We  have  had  it 
for  a  number  of  years,  sometimes  in  the  open  ground 
and  sometimes  in-doors,  but  nowhere  "  to  do  much  good," 
and  had  almost  forgotten  its  existence  until  we  visited 
Dr.  K.'s  garden.  We  are  now  disposetl  to  "  alter  our 
figures"  in  regard  to  this  variety,  and  to  give  it  a  high 
place  among  the  "  stocks  "  of  Florida  nurserymen  and 
amateur  pomologists.  In  short,  what  the  "  Paradise  " 
and  "  Doucin  "  are  to  the  apple  ;  the  quince,  sloe  and 
hawthorn  to  the  pear  ;  and  the  mahaleb  to  the  cherry, 
the  Otaheite  will,  we  believe,  prove  to  the  orange,  the 
lemon  and  their  congeners  ;  and  the  only  question  in  the 
near  future  is,  how  to  procure  these  "  stocks "  in  suf- 
ficient quantities  to  supply  the  demand  for  Dwarf  Orange 
trees,  which  is  sure  to  spring  up  as  soon  as  the  novelty- 
loving  public  see  them.  Leaving  this  to  the  enterprise 
of  our  friends,  Bidwell,  Manville,  Beach,  and  others,  we 
will  try  to  describe  the  simple  and  easy  mode  by  which 
Dr.  Kenworthy  produces  these  little  pets  of  the  garden 
and  the  grove. 

He  plants  out  a  number  of  the  Otaheite  shrubs  or 
trees  in  a  fair  soil ;  and,  at  the  proper  season,  i.  e.,  when 
they  are  making  a  vigorous  growth — he  carefully  layers 
(in  the  usual  way)  every  available  limb  or  branch. 
When  these  layers  show  signs  of  growth,  he  buds  into 
them,  (very  near  the  ground,)  such  varieties  as  he  desires 
to  propagate ;  and,  w  hen  the  buds  start,  he  does  not  cut 
off  the  stock  above,  but  ties  a  ligature  of  cord  or  fine 
wire  around  and  near  the  top  of  the  stock,  retaining  the 
leaves  to  assist  in  nourishing  and  pushing  forward  the 
young  bud.     If  this  budding  is  done  very  early,  the 


118  MANVILLE'S  TREATISE  ON 

bud  will  make  several  "  growths  "  during  the  first  sea- 
son, and  the  little  tree  will  be  large  enough  to  trans- 
plant the  following  fall  or  winter.  When  thus  removed, 
the  dwarfs  may  be  planted  six  or  eight  feet  apart — (the 
Doctor's  are  only  five  feet) — and  they  will  afterwards 
require  no  more  care  than  any  good  orange-grower  be- 
stows upon  the  trees  in  his  garden  or  grove — though  we 
confess  we  should  be  tempted  to  give  the  little  felloAvs, 
"  early  and  often,"  an  extra  handful  of  bone-dust,  etc., 
just  to  see  them  spread  out  near  the  ground,  bourgeon, 
blossom  and  don  their  "  golden  apples  !  This  "  spread- 
ing near  the  ground."  by-the-way,  is  something  greatly 
under  the  control  of  the  gi'ower ;  who,  if  he  under- 
stands the  theory  of  "pinching back,"  or  "  pruning  with 
thumb  and  finger,"  (as  set  forth  in  Barry's  "  Fruit  Gar- 
den," and  similar  works,)  may  easily  give  the  young 
tree  any  shape  he  desires,  without  ever  using  his  knife 
or  pruning-shears.  The  short  and  almost  hidden  trunk 
or  stem  of  these  little  orange  trees,  with  their'  dense, 
rounded,  solid  masses  of  large,  shining,  dark  green 
leaves,  studded  plentifully  with  ripe  Mandarins,  Homo- 
sassa's,  Magnum  Bonum's,  Nonpareil's,  Old  Vini's,  or 
other  choice  varieties  (which  a  child  could  gather  with- 
out standing  on  tip-toe,)  would  surely  be  one  of  the 
most  charming  "pomological  exhibitions"  which  it  is 
possible  to  imagine ! 

And  now  for  the  more  practical,  dollar-and-cent  side 
of  this  "  new  departure  "  in  orange  culture  : 

1.  It  expedites  the  hearing  of  the  orange,  so  that  the 
great  "Bug-Bear"  of  all  new-comers — "  having  to  wait 
so  long  for  the  trees  to  come  into  bearing  " — is  com- 
pletely vanquished.  With  a  few  hundred  of  these 
dwarfs  in  his  garden  or  grove,  certain  (with  good  care,) 
to  produce  large  crops  of  superior  fruit  in  two  or  three 
years,  the  settler,  could  wait,  hopefully  and  patiently. 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  119 

for  the  larger  "seedlings"  to  mature,  and  feel  that  he 
had  achieved  some  pleasant  and  profitable  results,  with- 
out spending  a  lifetime  in  expectancy. 

2.  The  amateur  or  city  resident,  of  limited  space,  who 
desires  to  test  many  sorts  and  varieties,  may  plant  these 
dwarf  trees  four  or  five  feet  apart,  (or  even  closer,)  in 
a  corner  of  his  garden,  and  derive  from  them  all  the 
satisfaction  enjoyed  by  the  cultivator  of  many  broad 
acres. 

3.  There  could  be  no  more  perfect  blending  of  the 
utile  cum  dulce  than  borders  and  groups  of  these  lovely 
little  trees,  full  of  fruit,  scattered  around  the  gardens 
and  grounds  of  the  numberless  lovely  homes  on  St. 
John's  River  ;  in  the  lake  region  ;  along  the  Gulf  coast, 
and  in  many  other  portions  of  "  fair  Florida  !" 

4.  Should  there  be  any  danger  to  the  tree  or  fruit 
from  a  "  nipping  and  eager "  frost,  these  little  trees 
could  be  perfectly  protected  by  turning  over  them  a 
sugar  hogshead,  or  wrapping  a  blanket  around  them. 

5.  As  "  selling  stock  "  for  our  Florida  nurserymen, 
they  would  prove,  at  once,  a  perfect  "  Bonanza."  Trees 
large  enough  to  bear  twenty  to  fifty  oranges,  could  be 
grown  in  fourteen  or  sixteen  inch  pots,  packed  in  small 
space,  and  shipped,  per  express,  with  the  fruit  all  on ! 
Such  souvenirs  of  Florida  as  these,  no  "  tourist "  could 
resist,  and  the  demand  for  them  in  the  winter,  would  be 
something  "truly  awful !"  They  could,  also,  be  propa- 
gated very  largely  here,  in  the  open  ground,  then  potted 
and  sent  to  the  North,  in  the  fall,  for  stocking  conserva- 
tories and  green-houses. 

Other  uses  for  these  pretty  trees  may  suggest  them- 
selves to  the  reader,  but  we  will  close  for  the  present ; 
merely  remarking  that  Dr.  Kenworthy  has  no  trees, 
roots  or  stocks  to  dispose  of,  and  that  he  does  not  spec- 


120  MANA^LLE'.S  TREATISE  ON 

ially  desire  to  be  troubled  with  any  correspondence  on 
the  subject. 

The  following  communication  appeared  in  the  same 
journal  June  12, 1882: 

MORE   ABOUT   THE    DWARF   ORANGE   TREE, 
Editors  of  the  Florida  Dispatch. 

I  was  gratified  to  find  that  my  experiment  in  dwarf- 
ing the  orange  met  with  your  approval ;  and  I  am  dis- 
posed to  add  a  few  remarks  to  what  you  have  already 
stated.  The  propagation  and  cultivation  of  my  orange 
bushes  is  a  mere  practical  application  of  the  principles 
published  by  my  old  friend  Thomas  Rivers,  of  Saw- 
bridgeworth,  England,  in  his  work  entitled  the  "  Mini- 
ature Fruit  Garden  ;"  written  to  guide  cultivators  in  the 
culture  of  dwarf  pears,  apples  and  cherries. 

I,  experimented  with  several  stocks,  and  finally  de- 
cided to  adopt  the  Otaheite.  Its  roots  are  fibrous  and 
plentiful ;  and  in  its  earlier  stages  of  growth  it  is  like 
the  Paradise  or  Doucin  stocks,  very  vigorous  ;  but  soon 
settles  down  to  business.  My  bushes  are  grown  on 
sandy  soil,  with  a  subsoil  of  pure  white  sand.  For  four 
years  the  land  was  used  as  an  asparagus  bed,  and  during 
that  period  it  received  but  one  light  dressing  of  manure. 
On  the  same  land,  six  years  ago,  I  planted  standard 
orange  trees  sixteen  feet  apart,  and  my  bushes  are  grow- 
ing between  them  five  feet  apart.  You,  Mr.  Editor, 
will  certainly  agree  with  me,  that  my  bushes  have  not 
been  fairly  treated.  If  my  bushes  had  been  planted  in 
new  and  fertile  soil,  I  feel  assured  that  the  product  of 
the  first  year  would  have  been  much  greater.  I  have 
raised  from  seed  a  truly  Lilliputian  variety  of  the 
orange,  and  I  have  reason  to  believe  that  it  will  super- 
sede the  Otaheite  as  a  stock  for  bushes. 

Some  of  your  readers  will  cry  out  cut  bono,  and  ridi- 


ORANGE  CULTURE.  121 

cule  orange  bushes,  as  English  gardeners  ridicule  Riv- 
ers' apple  bushes  ;  but  to-day  apple  bushes  have  become 
an  institution,  and  produce  larger  and  finer  apples  than 
can  be  gathered  from  standard  trees.  This  morning  I 
carefully  examined  my  orange  bushes,  and  I  will  perse- 
cute you  with  figures : 

The  bushes  are  20  in  number. 

Thirteen  out  of  the  20  are  in  fruit. 

Number  of  fruit  on  bearing  bushes  is:  80,  79,  41,  35, 
20, 17, 16, 10,  10,  4,  3,  3, 1. 

Average  number  of  fruit  on  bearing  bushes,  24. 

Average  number  of  fruit  on  bearing  and  nou-bearing 
bushes,  155. 

Distance  of  bushes  apart,  5  by  5  feet. 

Number  of  bushes  per  acre,  if  planted  5  by  5  feet 
apart,  1,742. 

Product  per  acre  first  year  of  bearing  on  average  of 
15 J  per  bush,  26,000. 

Twenty -six  thousand   oranges  at  $15  per  1,000,  $390. 

All  who  are  conversant  with  the  culture  of  dwarf 
apples,  pears  and  cherries,  will  admit  that  they  are  pro- 
ductive and  profitable,  and  my  limited  experience  with 
my  bushes,  leads  me  to  believe  that  they  will  produce 
large  crops  at  an  early  day.  As  it  may  possibly  inter- 
est some  of  your  readers,  I  will  furnish  a  few  facts  in 
connection  with  the  Otaheite  orange. 

According  to  Risso  and  Poiteau,  it  was  introduced 
into  France  in  1815,  by  M.  Noisette,  a  Parisian  nursery- 
man. It  is  dwarf  in  habit,  almost  thornless,  branches 
pendulous,  roots  fibrous,  leaves  very  smooth  and  glossy, 
four  inches  in  length  by  one  and  three-quarters  broad, 
leaves  concave  on  upper  surface  from  side  to  side,  ab- 
sence of  leaflet  on  petiole. 

The  fruit  is  small,  being  about  one  inch  and  three- 
quarters  in  length,  by  one  and  a  third  in  diameter;  with 


122  MANVILLE'S  TREATIWE. 

prominent  rumpled  knob  or  tubercle  at  calyx  end  ;  sur- 
face of  fruit  strewn  with  small,  irregular  impressions  ; 
skin  thin  and  charged  with  a  pungent  essential  oil ; 
flesh  deeper  in  color  than  the  skin ;  juice  very  unpleas- 
ant, resembling  a  mixture  of  the  juice  of  the  lime  and 
bitter  orange  of  Seville.  C.  J.  Kenworthy. 


1^  <«w 


^.. 


^cM' 


c/'* 


